snivilous
Senior Member
Alright, so starting off where I left. The key I found is leaving the uniball in the freezer for a long time (overnight) and then using a torch to heat the cup, I just used a propane torch and had it heat it for like 5 minutes and the uniball dropped in and didn't even need a tap with a hammer. I put some engine oil on the race to help slide it in but that wasn't even needed!
The UCA is designed to match the loadings calculated for the LCA, and the heims are set half way out as default so each heim has about a half inch or more of workable adjustment in either direction.
The upper arm went in fine and the spindle appears to be almost perfectly vertical as well as the hub being vertical at ride height, which obviously is ideal so no adjustment is needed to make it visually aligned.
Now, the good news and bad news: I am pulling 14" of workable travel. This is limited by the uniballs, I originally thought I would have 36 degrees of misalignment with the spacers but getting the new uniball kits I only get 32 degrees. I doubt the extra 4 would of made that much difference, but considering the CV has over 18" of workable travel it's disappointing. The good news is I am pulling at least, if not better, than all 4WD kits out there. I could pull more up travel if I went to a horizontal upper uniball (bolt horizontal) but it would require redesigning the UCA and analyzing the spindle mounts in that configuration. I will probably go to both upper and lower uniballs horizontal for the next iteration.
I then threw on a tire to see how it looked at full bump. Keep in mind this is a VERY worn down 31" tire that measures under 29" as of now, so for 35s which is my plan next add 3" to the top and bottom :eyebrows:
One positive thing about my travel being limited at 14" is I have "plenty" of clearance at full bump. I was thinking originally I would be lucky to have 2" of clearance from the skid at full bump with 35s but that shouldn't be an issue now. You can tell I am using considerably more CV up travel than stock, which the CV barely goes above level at full bump.
Next I cut up the inner fender more (get to that more in a bit) to stuff the shock in and figure out where to mount it and make sure it clears everything--which it did like a charm!
(Obviously I won't have the reservoir just hanging there haha)
You can see how the UCA uniball is binding at full droop, which the LCA uniball does at the same time too actually.
I then took the coils off and compressed the shock to see where it would sit at full bump. I was surprised at first that I would be using the full travel of the shock considering I was expecting 18" of travel originally, though then I remember TC and Camburg use an 8" shock so 10" should work about the same depending on the mounting setup and that I might be pulling an inch or two more travel.
Final picture, a peek into the engine bay. I originally had to cut the inner fender to clear the UCA, and keep cutting until it stopped hitting different spots. I then had to cut more to get the shock stuffed into the engine bay. I didn't get to it, but I will run a shock hoop around the UCA and into the engine bay. I'm not done cutting and will pretty it up, maybe try to cover up the cut in the inner fender so the engine bay will be more protected from stuff flying in...we'll see. For the record, the top of the picture is the exhaust manifold and the photo is taken from above the hub, threw me off for a second haha.
Finally, I will have to trim my pinch weld and maybe more. At full bump with essentially any turning the tire hits and that's not even running a big tire... We'll see how that goes, I might have to run 33s instead of 35s if I can't clear enough until my second design comes out and moves the hub forward.
Also, I realized that there is a rubber seal on the hub that keeps dirt and stuff out of the area where the abs sensors are. I realized this is why my sensors always have so much shit on them and stop reading every few months, I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to replace or fix this rubber seal? I don't want to take apart my hubs yet and press all the shit in and out of them (and I don't have the money to replace the bearings and other stuff), so was wondering if this part can just pop out? I might just put some silicone in since I don't think it's a rotating interface, I think it just presses against the CV and spins with it... Anways, thanks for reading as always! Probably be a few days until anything big happens again since I'm pretty busy and will be having Cartzo welding up lots of stuff and getting the passenger side ready. Have a good weekend!
The UCA is designed to match the loadings calculated for the LCA, and the heims are set half way out as default so each heim has about a half inch or more of workable adjustment in either direction.
The upper arm went in fine and the spindle appears to be almost perfectly vertical as well as the hub being vertical at ride height, which obviously is ideal so no adjustment is needed to make it visually aligned.
Now, the good news and bad news: I am pulling 14" of workable travel. This is limited by the uniballs, I originally thought I would have 36 degrees of misalignment with the spacers but getting the new uniball kits I only get 32 degrees. I doubt the extra 4 would of made that much difference, but considering the CV has over 18" of workable travel it's disappointing. The good news is I am pulling at least, if not better, than all 4WD kits out there. I could pull more up travel if I went to a horizontal upper uniball (bolt horizontal) but it would require redesigning the UCA and analyzing the spindle mounts in that configuration. I will probably go to both upper and lower uniballs horizontal for the next iteration.
I then threw on a tire to see how it looked at full bump. Keep in mind this is a VERY worn down 31" tire that measures under 29" as of now, so for 35s which is my plan next add 3" to the top and bottom :eyebrows:
One positive thing about my travel being limited at 14" is I have "plenty" of clearance at full bump. I was thinking originally I would be lucky to have 2" of clearance from the skid at full bump with 35s but that shouldn't be an issue now. You can tell I am using considerably more CV up travel than stock, which the CV barely goes above level at full bump.
Next I cut up the inner fender more (get to that more in a bit) to stuff the shock in and figure out where to mount it and make sure it clears everything--which it did like a charm!
(Obviously I won't have the reservoir just hanging there haha)
You can see how the UCA uniball is binding at full droop, which the LCA uniball does at the same time too actually.
I then took the coils off and compressed the shock to see where it would sit at full bump. I was surprised at first that I would be using the full travel of the shock considering I was expecting 18" of travel originally, though then I remember TC and Camburg use an 8" shock so 10" should work about the same depending on the mounting setup and that I might be pulling an inch or two more travel.
Final picture, a peek into the engine bay. I originally had to cut the inner fender to clear the UCA, and keep cutting until it stopped hitting different spots. I then had to cut more to get the shock stuffed into the engine bay. I didn't get to it, but I will run a shock hoop around the UCA and into the engine bay. I'm not done cutting and will pretty it up, maybe try to cover up the cut in the inner fender so the engine bay will be more protected from stuff flying in...we'll see. For the record, the top of the picture is the exhaust manifold and the photo is taken from above the hub, threw me off for a second haha.
Finally, I will have to trim my pinch weld and maybe more. At full bump with essentially any turning the tire hits and that's not even running a big tire... We'll see how that goes, I might have to run 33s instead of 35s if I can't clear enough until my second design comes out and moves the hub forward.
Also, I realized that there is a rubber seal on the hub that keeps dirt and stuff out of the area where the abs sensors are. I realized this is why my sensors always have so much shit on them and stop reading every few months, I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to replace or fix this rubber seal? I don't want to take apart my hubs yet and press all the shit in and out of them (and I don't have the money to replace the bearings and other stuff), so was wondering if this part can just pop out? I might just put some silicone in since I don't think it's a rotating interface, I think it just presses against the CV and spins with it... Anways, thanks for reading as always! Probably be a few days until anything big happens again since I'm pretty busy and will be having Cartzo welding up lots of stuff and getting the passenger side ready.
Have a good weekend!
Summation of this post, the pictures all look the same as the past week and it's more mocking up of the suspension.
out:
