Sniv's Custom Long Travel Build

Random question... but why is your preload set so high? Did you ditch the upper spring? Doesn't look like it's there from the pics you just posted. Or maybe the UCA is just blocking it in the pic?
 
Random question... but why is your preload set so high? Did you ditch the upper spring? Doesn't look like it's there from the pics you just posted. Or maybe the UCA is just blocking it in the pic?

No it's still there, and yes the preload is very high. When I went for the first drive the other day I had to crank the shit out of the coils to get them level with the 3" lift in the rear, and even then it wasn't totally level... I know my spring rate is low (500 tender 600 primary) but I don't want to change it until I can get a good feeling for how it rides at this suspension frequency. Any suggestions? Cause it was a ***** cranking it down that far and I could barely turn it near the end.
 
No it's still there, and yes the preload is very high. When I went for the first drive the other day I had to crank the shit out of the coils to get them level with the 3" lift in the rear, and even then it wasn't totally level... I know my spring rate is low (500 tender 600 primary) but I don't want to change it until I can get a good feeling for how it rides at this suspension frequency. Any suggestions? Cause it was a ***** cranking it down that far and I could barely turn it near the end.

Wow those are some heavy spring rates!!! Drop em down to about 200/300 and get longer springs. What travel coilovers are those again? 12's?
 
Wow those are some heavy spring rates!!! Drop em down to about 200/300 and get longer springs. What travel coilovers are those again? 12's?

They're 10s, and screw that! I'm already afraid they're gonna be wicked soft!
My Eibachs felt awesome and were 620s, right now my combined rate is like 275. What rates are you running? Remember this isn't meant to crawl, but nonetheless it should still bump better than stock when flexed :boxing:
 
They're 10s, and screw that! I'm already afraid they're gonna be wicked soft!
My Eibachs felt awesome and were 620s, right now my combined rate is like 275. What rates are you running? Remember this isn't meant to crawl, but nonetheless it should still bump better than stock when flexed :boxing:


I'm tellin' you they are way too heavy, especially with that preload. With coilovers, you need to drop your spring rates way down and get your shocks tuned. Most SAS'ed 1st gen tacoma's are running between 175/250 and 250/300, I am running a 175/300 and want to swap the lower out asap for a 275. Mine are tuned using a flutter stack with the shims which help with more go-fast type bumps, washboards, and hard hits.

Off-Road Shock Tuning Guide | How To Tune and Valve Off-Road Racing Shocks

Flutter Stack VS. Conventional Stack (shock valving) | race-deZert

what coilover valving do you run and results from revalving - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

You're running a dual rate coil over, not some 3" travel shock that needs a 650# spring to make it ride decent. What's cool about coilovers is the endless tuning capabilities. It usually takes about 6+ times tuning them to get them dialed in, but you know you're on the right track if it gets better each time haha.

What are your spring lengths upper and lower? I'm guessing 8" and 12"?
 
I'll update once it's running, hopefully tomorrow since we need to be out of our house by Saturday... In the meantime here are some pictures from today. Long story short is the UCA position is fixed and I now am around 0 degrees camber at full droop and ride height and go positive at bump which also helps me tuck into the fender. Keep in mind these are bald 31s, so literally any tire I move to will be bigger and need clearancing of the fender.

4BAE4697-7CC4-44BF-AFE4-CC48B2682DE9_zpsl9ilehar.jpg~original


97A7BC0E-4393-45BC-9012-D6DE9AA8724C_zpszxlykcuo.jpg~original


Pretty positive camber at full bump, but I prefer that over negative camber and it's good not to have negative camber at full droop now.

101A94EA-9DEC-4F70-BF5A-8109FA3DEF3E_zpsis1swrfl.jpg~original


Will post more this weekend. All of the stock components are now gone, bye bye stock UCA mounts and remainder of the shock buckets :zoom:
 
One of the few build threads on here that I follow regularly. Nice work! If you bump up your tire size you might be loosing bump travel no matter how much you clearance your fenders. Also may have to get wider glass with an increased tire width. Won't be as easy to tuck into the fender at full stuff. Not to mention your front bumper is going to pop your tire! Lol.

I really like the McNeil Tacoma fenders. I've noticed that they're the only ones that have the flat edge like our stock sheet metal fenders. Something you don't usually see with the first gen Taco glass.
 
I'm tellin' you they are way too heavy, especially with that preload. With coilovers, you need to drop your spring rates way down and get your shocks tuned. Most SAS'ed 1st gen tacoma's are running between 175/250 and 250/300, I am running a 175/300 and want to swap the lower out asap for a 275. Mine are tuned using a flutter stack with the shims which help with more go-fast type bumps, washboards, and hard hits.


Remember this is not SAS, that coilover is being leveraged off the lower arm. I don't know what the ratio is, but your comparing apples to oranges. There's no way you could go that soft with long travel IFS.

By changing your spring rates from 175/300 to 175/275 your only changing the spring rate by < 5 lbs. You would be better off taking out some preload or lightening the valve stack up a tad. So you don't have to spend the $ on new coils.

Coils should be used to set the ride-height, without having to put a bunch of preload on the coil. If you have to add a lot of preload to get the necessary ride height, your too soft. Remember, adding another coil complicates the matter.

Once the ride height is set, everything else should be accomplished by changing the valving.
 
Umm, that's NEGATIVE camber at bump. Negative is when the top of the tire is in further than the bottom. Positive is like the back of a Baja Bug that's been lifted. You've got your terms backwards, and that's a little worrisome, imo.
 
Bit of an update, did a lot on the truck today and drove it to our new house a few miles away. The front end isn't setup at all, first I decreased the preload since the front end was 3" too high and now it's too low; the toe is way out; and the shocks are way too stiff from my 7 minute test drive. Nothing broke though! I haven't added any cross bracing since I was short on time and it's gonna be tricky routing the tubing. I think the shock and UCA mounts are plenty strong now, but I want to reinforce it further.

Umm, that's NEGATIVE camber at bump. Negative is when the top of the tire is in further than the bottom. Positive is like the back of a Baja Bug that's been lifted. You've got your terms backwards, and that's a little worrisome, imo.

Ah right you are, thank you for pointing that out! I would consider it worrisome if I ran a business with camber related products, considering I'm 20 and this is my first attempt at suspension, and calling the camber angle positive or negative doesn't affect anything except how it's referenced--I'm not too worried. Not sure where your hang up with my build is though, you are anal in every post and seem to lack innovation let alone understand that this isn't a trophy truck.

Where are you moving to?:shrug:

Just to another house closer to campus that's a lot nicer, bigger garage too :D
 
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Innovation? Anyways, the only reason I'm critical is because this isn't some ToyTec bolt on deal. I've been down this road before. I've worked for a Class 7 race team. I've seen guys hurt themselves and others because they didn't facor certain things into their build. The only reason it's worrisome to me is the lack of knowledge of suspension geometry terms gets me thinking about the consideration of caster angle and the other factors that make a truck driveable in all conditions. Suspension design doesn't happen by accident. I just wanna make sure that you and other people reading this consider those things and stay safe. It's only out of concern for your safety. That's all. I applaud you for doing work, I just wanna see it come out well and you come out safe.
 
^ probabky a more constructive way to go about addressing concerns you have, and to provide specific, actionable feedback
 
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Innovation? Anyways, the only reason I'm critical is because this isn't some ToyTec bolt on deal. I've been down this road before. I've worked for a Class 7 race team. I've seen guys hurt themselves and others because they didn't facor certain things into their build. The only reason it's worrisome to me is the lack of knowledge of suspension geometry terms gets me thinking about the consideration of caster angle and the other factors that make a truck driveable in all conditions. Suspension design doesn't happen by accident. I just wanna make sure that you and other people reading this consider those things and stay safe. It's only out of concern for your safety. That's all. I applaud you for doing work, I just wanna see it come out well and you come out safe.

I don't mind advice or suggestions, but you come off as an ******* and have yet to provide any valuable advice. Where did you get your engineering degree from? And what was your function on the team?
 

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