Snow Driving ?'s
- Thread starter SnowLizard
- Start date
MinnesnowdaRunner
New member
Trying to get my posts up so I can pose my own question, but until then, this thread seemed closest to my issue: Frozen brakes. It's been below freezing here for 3 days. I park outside. Drove for the first time in 3 days today and no brakes for a good 10 minutes. Pumped em a few times and had a lot of resistance, almost immovable. Then all the way to the floor, followed by normal use. This has happened twice now this winter. Any ideas?
jakemarsh7
New member
yeah i have the 4wd button, and 4LO, N, and H on the selector.
jakemarsh7
New member
i've got pretty good knowledge in terms of snow driving technique (not off-roading), but it's all been in a 5-speed '99 Mustang (rwd obviously). Driving the mustang in Northeast winters taught me everything about being careful in terms of speed, braking, and turning in the snow since the car didn't help me in anyway besides ABS. so any tips that apply to these cars would be great
MN4runnerman
Senior Member
It can be a couple things like your brake booster/master cylinder seizing up in the cold to low brake fluid. Same thing happened to me this morning in my '97 that I just bought. I pumped the brakes a few times after letting it warm up a bit and it was fine the rest of the day. It hadn't been driven since Saturday morning.
Yes, but being an '02, your 4wd system is different from the '96-'98 Limited 4wd models.
jakemarsh7
New member
the difference being the center diff lock?
As long as your center diff lock is unlocked it is in AWD. With it locked it's like any part time 4WD tcase, which always has the front and rear outputs locked.
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MyHigh
New member
Best tip for you is to drive your new to you 4Runner the same way you would your old mustang ( very careful! )....
All to often I see people drive like complete idiots because they are in a "4x4". And so they feel that they can bomb down the road at 55mph like its nobodies business. Now I'm not saying you will be one of those people, but just remember, and I tell this to all my family members. That is "it's not you I'm worried about on the road, it's the other people that don't take the time to learn properly how to drive in hazardous conditions"
I mentioned this earlier and RockRat has as well, and that's to keep those wheels moving, buy doing this you are making sure that there is new contact points gripping the road surface, once you hit those breaks this no longer is the case and you will slide.
I'm by far no expert on driving in snow, but every year if we are lucky enough to get the white stuff I make sure to go crazy in a empty parking lot that way I have an idea of How my truck will react when the time comes.
jakemarsh7
New member
yeah people often think that AWD/4wd makes you indestructible, it drives me nuts. So would "downshifting" into 2 when slowing to a stop be a good idea? I'm used to downshifting/rev-matching as i slow down with a manual, just not sure how well an automatic transmission would take it. i get that it makes almost no sense given that brakes are cheaper than a new transmission blah blah blah, i'm more curious than anything else.
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MyHigh
New member
Yes your right, normally downshifting is no good ( brakes are cheaper) but in snow/ice that's exactly what you want to do. You mentions rev-matching it's easy with a manual because if your a little off on the speed you just press the clutch until the speed is right. In a auto you need to be a little more careful because down shifting to the lower gear will cause problems if you are going to fast. Now I say don't use brakes but really you will still need to use them, it just if they lock up you just need to let off and allow those tires to once again roll. Once you go and find a place to safely practice you will have a better idea at what speeds you can safely downshift the autos.
Nokian, the absolute best winter tire I personally have driven on. That said, currently running the Hankook I-Pike RW11s and they are exactly what I need for a very fair price!
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Definitely agree with big open lot (spend a few minutes and scout out locations, and make note where all the "immoveable" objects are when it's clear) learning.
It's fun.
Very fun.
And you will freak out less when you're understeering into oncoming traffic.
"look where you want to go"
Rock_Rat
Senior Member
It doesn't look like your question was actually answered to your satisfaction. I have a 2001 4Runner and like you do not have an elocker. Here are the various modes we have:
2WD
Left Lever in H and shifter in D,2,L
When to Use: Daily driver all the time
4WD H
Left Shift Lever in H, button pushed in and shifter in D,2,L
When to use: Anytime you want or all the time if you want. Shift in and out of 4WD on the fly up to 62mph. This will more than likely be sufficient for most snow applications as long as you don't need to go up or down any steep hills. To answer your question, yes it's similar to AWD except you actually engage the 4WD.
4WD L
Left Shift Lever in L4, button pushed in and shifter in D,2,L
When to use: Steep hill climbs and decents in snow. You must stop and place your transmission in neutral before shifting to L4. Not to be used on dry pavement or in any conditions where you need TRAC or VSC.
In snow conditions I use L4 when decending a steep hill. This allows me to let my 4runner take me down the hill without the need to continually apply the brakes to slow down. I may use it to take me up a steep hill, however, you want to be careful you don't max out your gears. Often times H in 2 or L will suffice.
Center Differential in either L4 or H
Using the center diff will give you TRUE 4WD where you need traction applied to both the front and rear axles, if one wheel is spinning. I think the perentage is around 60/40 or 50/50 per axle. The center diff mode is applied when pushing the button in to the left of your steering wheel below the instrument panel AND the button on the 4WD shifter pushed in. This mode is used predominantly for off road applications where you are susceptible to isolating one wheel or getting stuck in the mud or on slick rocks.
Only used on straight paths where traction is needed in a slippery or stuck condition. don't use your center diff if you plan on making a lot of turns. It's not designed for that. You'll destroy it.
I've never had to use the center diff in any snow conditions on road. Off road when playin in the snow, yes I've used it. I've also used chains on road in sketch conditions just to be on the safe side. I use them in the front with 4WD engaged. Your users manual will tell you to use them in the rear.
In our year vehicles you have pretty good 4WD with the A-TRAC and VSC system. It's as close to a true OEM E-Locker as your going to get without having one or an air locker like the ARB.
I'm sure there's a ton of information on this in our own forum and on you-tube etc. If I were you I would get familiar with the above link in another post on the T-case differences, VSC and TRAC. Hope this helps a bit. Others will chime in if there's something important I've left out. I'm just speaking from 15 years of ownership experience and driving in the snow with my 4Runner. I couldn't tell you all the differences in each of the 3rd gens.
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I'm fairly new to this and have a couple airing down questions.
What would be a good PSI for airing down on the highway? Think driving up to the slopes and chains are required for 2wd but 4wd and snow tires are OK without.
Also about how low do you go for offroad deeper snowy trails?
awd 4wd
Good snow driving consists of good snow tires or at tires, putting the cell phone down, paying attention and going slow. With any front wheel drive or Awd keep constant throttle and vehicle will go. Spin occurs during heavy braking or no throttle input. If you have a-trac I believe it works best till about 2200 rpm. A-trac on my landcruiser likes slow constant thottle input. A rear locker engaged on slick uphill tend to kick the rear end sideways. Never engage rear locker going downhill(maybe a rock garden would be OK)
Good snow driving consists of good snow tires or at tires, putting the cell phone down, paying attention and going slow. With any front wheel drive or Awd keep constant throttle and vehicle will go. Spin occurs during heavy braking or no throttle input. If you have a-trac I believe it works best till about 2200 rpm. A-trac on my landcruiser likes slow constant thottle input. A rear locker engaged on slick uphill tend to kick the rear end sideways. Never engage rear locker going downhill(maybe a rock garden would be OK)
JayRolla
New member
Best way to get good at driving in snow. Is practicing sliding, drifting in 4x4 and 2wd. A large empty parking lot is best.
1. Good winter or AT tires. (muds no good in snow on the road)
2. Pay Attention and go slow.
3. Actually have the skills to know what to do when you do slide or are in a bad situation. (practice actually sliding and regaining control in a safe environment)
1. Good winter or AT tires. (muds no good in snow on the road)
2. Pay Attention and go slow.
3. Actually have the skills to know what to do when you do slide or are in a bad situation. (practice actually sliding and regaining control in a safe environment)
snivilous
Senior Member
I've never aired down onroad, I've thought about it in really bad blizzards but never actually done it. 2WD chains would be nice, but again not mandatory, and you'll be fine with essentially any tire for 4WD. Like I said, I've never had issues running AT/MTs and going to ski resorts or commuting to work (which has a 12% grade).
Offroad is preference, without beadlocks I start getting nervous at 8psi but I've also blown beads at 8psi when the snow was deep and I was on a tight trail so there were really sharp turns and you weren't moving forward much (so the bead could get easily pulled off). Right now with my beadlocks I usually start around 2-4psi and drop lower if needed.
It's all situational, understand how the bead will come off and you can understand when and how to run "really low" pressure. I've never had any issues without beadlocks at 10psi though. Anything under 15psi I consider low, at 15psi or higher you can easily drive onroad and it won't feel that squishy.
JayRolla
New member
Completely agree with this. 15psi is where I go offroad. Never thought of airing down on the road but maybe would help a lot on my worn muds.
MT tires I dont agree with though. When they are worn a bit say 75% or under they dont like snow pack with a little sun wetting it down. AT's on wifes vehicle always does good and have done me well in years past. She wont even drive my truck in the snow because of the MT's.
