SnowLizards Build thread

The opposite corner is do to the OME 906 springs in the rear. They are side specific springs, on the little paper tag on the spring coil they are labeled. Coil A is a little longer and should be put on the left hand side to compensate for the weight of the gas tank and Coil B is for the rear right.
I do have A on the drivers side/gas tank side. And I did one side of struts at a time so the front was never out at the same time.
 
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Bummer...

thought I was gonna get away with it easy... but guess not...

issue 1) rear axle seal is leaking... Desert Toy Shop did the work last year, and they are gonna fix it free... easy. and since they are gonna disconnect the rear brakes, I'm gonna swap in my 3 extended brake lines (for a smaller fee)

above was gonna be it... until I got a call from them...

issue 2) left CV has torn boot and is fling'n grease everywhere...
solution A) they reboot each axle = 320 per axle... 640 out the door. ouch
solution B) napa = get two axles for less than $200... do it myself.
solution C) reboot myself...
solution D) reman toyota CV's from camelback @ 150/each... pop them myself... but does require $75 core charge or return my old ones. the remans have new parts in the CV's... IF they installed these, it was 270 out the door... a 3hr job?

I'm leaning towards D... and keep the good one as trail spare. just have more stuff to do... yay.

I'm leaning towards both... just to get them both out of the way...
 
I had the same issues with the CVs after my lift. Did them myself. Literally took me no more than 30 min a side. Most of the time was spent trying to get the axle out of the front diff
 
Get the Napas (the ones without the core charge). Swap yourself. Reboot the OEM ones when time and money permit and keep for trail spares.


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well since I'm not super off-roady... I went with napa's... 80 each out the door. installed both last night.

theoretically I'm the same angle as those with a diff drop and 3 inch lift... but still ordered the dif drop for peace of mind
 
Body lift... is this a crazy idea?

crazy idea...

no (or very little) body lift in the rear, and 1 inch in the front?

theory/reason... already have my savage rear bumper, but not my CBI front bumper... AND I get a 1inch body clearance on the front tires on pinch weld...

so my theory would be front be around 1-1/4 and the rear be 1/2 or 1/4 (just enough so the angle of the body will still let the rear door open...

I have tundra 5100 shocks on the 3rd perch, fenders are all @ 36.25 inch from the ground... but stock bumper, the CBI bumper/armor/sliders will bring the front way down.

is this a good plan? is it sound?
 
recently went to willow lake up on rim, loved the time up there, didn't take the runner... but I did see one... which made me thing of a decision I need to make.

I have three rims I can choose from.
A) stock 5 start ltd rims... I like these it's a cool style
B) 2015 tacoma rims, 5 'Y' pattern... I got them with good tires, currently running them. I do like the style, but they are 1/2 inch pushed in towards the car (offset)
C) Split three spoke in BLACK... at first I wasn't going to even use them, but after seeing them in person I really like them too...

I'm not sold on either rim, and I know it's all 'preference' all what I like, so I'd figure I post about my Delema...

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/133970401@N04/27213407160/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160605_182207"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7420/27213407160_5c25296c32_c.jpg" width="800" height="450" alt="20160605_182207"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

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[MENTION=100116]D Farms[/MENTION] has a tapered lift. hit him up.


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The tapered lift is an idea i had made a thread about more than 1 year ago. when i got my 35s about a year ago I trimmed cut hammered and welded my firewall and fenders to not rub at all with full compression. during the process I discovered that there was over an inch and half of unused shock travel on my tundra 5100s. So I made a 3" body lift with the intention of tapering it down in the back to a certain ammount. I was able to eliminate the front bump stop and use a short bump stop that was cut down for the rear of the arm. This gave me an additional 3" of upward travel. at this point I went wheeling and had some nasty body roll and other things happening with the 3" rear body lift. So I cut my body lift blocks down so that it tapered down to nothing at the back and 3" in the front. the truck felt great on hills now compared to the full body lift. the other obvious advtanges are as follows: you can run less lift and maintain good ride quality, you can have equal front and rear lift heights, you can have a much better aproach angle with a custom bumper that sits higher, the radiator moves up 3", the battery and air box move up, the motor stays low and keeps ths center of gravity low. most of the weight of the body is in the rear(tapering keeps it lower, the front doesnt weigh as much), keeps your rocker panels away from the rocks, rock sliders can be mounted higher. the only disadvantage would be a higher center of gravity, but it would be less than half of a normal body lift.

All in all I think its worth it, espescially because the extra travel gained and the good ride quality due to more equal ammounts of up and down travel. I have made one kit which another member is currenty running who daily drives and wheels his truck fairly often, with nk issues other than those that a normal body lift would cause.
 
@D_Farms you think you could make a tapered BL that's 1.25 front, 1, 0.75, 0.5 rear? I think there is only 8 mounts... Maybe there is 10... Then rear would end at 0.25 inch.

I like the 5 stars too, but the next decision would be what do I run as spares and put on my trailer? I'm leaning split 3 spoke black.
 
@D_Farms you think you could make a tapered BL that's 1.25 front, 1, 0.75, 0.5 rear? I think there is only 8 mounts... Maybe there is 10... Then rear would end at 0.25 inch.

I like the 5 stars too, but the next decision would be what do I run as spares and put on my trailer? I'm leaning split 3 spoke black.

Yeah I can make them however you want. even with the 3" to 0 I didnt use a puck in the back and it didnt cause any issues with that hatch at all. the stock rear bumper is attached to the body anyways.
 
went trailing on the 28th with my pops, good time, only 5hrs.

he was impressed on the air down, how smooth it became at 10psi. this was my 2nd time at 10psi and I'm even impressed, can't wait for larger tires.

here's some pic's of the journey.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/133970401@N04/26881294964/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160528_091038"><img src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7342/26881294964_edcd0beebb_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="20160528_091038"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/133970401@N04/27213543810/in/dateposted-public/" title="20160528_083257"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7108/27213543810_c7d253766e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="20160528_083257"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
had an issue with the trailer lights, when one signal is on the truck, both sides blink on trailer...

I went to o'riely's and they had a direct fit (terminals and all) for $48... I already stole the one from my wifes cause I want OEM, but after all this trouble... I buckled and went new aftermarket. it did fix my issue.

I also installed my old 99 tall springs on my wife's 97 4runner... it actually sits level, go figure. checked her rear shocks out and they were in better shape than my old ones, so kept them on.

I think I'm going to go 5 star on the 99, use the spit 3 spoke on the trailer. gonna keep the 3rd gen theme going. I'll put my 5Y's on the wifes, she loves those rims anyways... I might actually get permission for some new tires, we'll see.
 
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got the trailer back... it's not 100% done, have fenders to swap out, 2-3inch gap between fender and trailer body... I figure this will give it a cleaner/hug on the fenders, and I won't have that gap to drop stuff down... I'll go back when they have it ready... but for now, it's coming home.













things I learned...
the 6x5.5 hub's, are not toyota friendly, had to add wheel spacers with lugs to get them to be centered... worked like a charm... extra $100...
the lock - n - roll trailer hitch... still have to find a 1/2 inch dia x 3.5 inch hitch lock
simpler is still not way cheaper, just cheaper... went from designing a 2x2 frame to bolt the box on to, to just a bunch of angle iron.
don't run around too much...


axle and wheel choice... I wanted to go 3rd gen wheels... but can't in the end... goal is to have it follow the truck in the tracks... but they didn't have access to a 59inch axle, so I went 61inch thinking I have spacers on the truck... but wheels don't work on trailer hubs, adding a spacer fixed the issue. but now I'm 63.5 inches, with these rims, I'm 1inch less... so 62.5... and my truck is 59 + 2.5inch spacer (1.25 each) and I'm sitting 61.5 wheel track so trailer is 1inch wider center wheel track than truck... oh well...
 
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