So Cal 4Runner BS Thread

It looks like I'm a month late to the wiring discussion, but I have some questions for you guys. I need to run power to the rear of the 4Runner for some accessories. For now, it will only feed the pseudo on board water setup that my wife is nagging me to finish, although I'd like to build in the capacity for more accessories later like a fridge and some rear cargo lighting that will be switched from the rear. There will be other lights, but those will be powered directly from the switch panel. My other accessories - front lights, HAM transceiver, compressor - are already wired in the front so I don't anticipate significant power needs in the back. Does it still make sense to run a larger gauge power cable (1/0?) to the rear or would it be wasted $ and overkill? The plan is to terminate the power at a Blue Sea fuse block in the rear side cargo compartment, similarly to what [MENTION=123332]Drunner97[/MENTION] did.
 
Offcamber said:
It looks like I'm a month late to the wiring discussion, but I have some questions for you guys. I need to run power to the rear of the 4Runner for some accessories. For now, it will only feed the pseudo on board water setup that my wife is nagging me to finish, although I'd like to build in the capacity for more accessories later like a fridge and some rear cargo lighting that will be switched from the rear. There will be other lights, but those will be powered directly from the switch panel. My other accessories - front lights, HAM transceiver, compressor - are already wired in the front so I don't anticipate significant power needs in the back. Does it still make sense to run a larger gauge power cable (1/0?) to the rear or would it be wasted $ and overkill? The plan is to terminate the power at a Blue Sea fuse block in the rear side cargo compartment, similarly to what [MENTION=123332]Drunner97[/MENTION] did.
Click to expand...

For the length of run to avoid voltage drop I'd go with 2g or 1/0 gauge. Keep in mind that most refrigerators don't like to run through fuse blocks. I actually had to bypass mine and connect it directly to the 1/0 because I was having issues. Still have some issues, but I think that it's mostly my fridge vs my wiring. I have a live 12v, 2 usb plugs, my ARB compressor, and my rear lights all hooked up to my fuse block in the rear. Only other thing I still plan on putting in is an LED strip for hatch lighting. I think I'd have to have power pulling from every single accessory before overloading the 1/0 gauge which is fused at 200a. Chances are high I'd melt the fuse block before I melted the wire and I do plan on putting in a 100a circuit breaker eventually to prevent that from happening.
 
Drunner97 said:
For the length of run to avoid voltage drop I'd go with 2g or 1/0 gauge. Keep in mind that most refrigerators don't like to run through fuse blocks. I actually had to bypass mine and connect it directly to the 1/0 because I was having issues. Still have some issues, but I think that it's mostly my fridge vs my wiring. I have a live 12v, 2 usb plugs, my ARB compressor, and my rear lights all hooked up to my fuse block in the rear. Only other thing I still plan on putting in is an LED strip for hatch lighting. I think I'd have to have power pulling from every single accessory before overloading the 1/0 gauge which is fused at 200a. Chances are high I'd melt the fuse block before I melted the wire and I do plan on putting in a 100a circuit breaker eventually to prevent that from happening.
Click to expand...

Assuming I measured correctly, it will be approx. 17 ft from the battery to the rear compartment. On a run of that length, do you know if it is best to put a fuse in the feed line closer to the battery or at the end of run by the fuse block? Also, have you had any issues with the connection at the fuse block? The lugs I see for 1/0 only go down to 1/4", but the terminal post on the fuse block is #10.
 
Offcamber said:
Assuming I measured correctly, it will be approx. 17 ft from the battery to the rear compartment. On a run of that length, do you know if it is best to put a fuse in the feed line closer to the battery or at the end of run by the fuse block? Also, have you had any issues with the connection at the fuse block? The lugs I see for 1/0 only go down to 1/4", but the terminal post on the fuse block is #10.
Click to expand...

I fused at the battery but will put the circuit breaker closer to the fuse block. I did have to use washers at the fuse block for the 1/0 lug. Only weird thing I've noticed is when the fridge is running it sometimes shows a .2 difference between the voltmeter in the rear and the one in my dash (which is connected directly to the battery) Otherwise it seems to be fine.
 
Drunner97 said:
I fused at the battery but will put the circuit breaker closer to the fuse block. I did have to use washers at the fuse block for the 1/0 lug. Only weird thing I've noticed is when the fridge is running it sometimes shows a .2 difference between the voltmeter in the rear and the one in my dash (which is connected directly to the battery) Otherwise it seems to be fine.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'm going to get the order in today.
 
also posted this on the classified section but having here also could help.

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great for supplies you might need around the garage or parts.
 
Offcamber said:
It looks like I'm a month late to the wiring discussion, but I have some questions for you guys. I need to run power to the rear of the 4Runner for some accessories. For now, it will only feed the pseudo on board water setup that my wife is nagging me to finish, although I'd like to build in the capacity for more accessories later like a fridge and some rear cargo lighting that will be switched from the rear. There will be other lights, but those will be powered directly from the switch panel. My other accessories - front lights, HAM transceiver, compressor - are already wired in the front so I don't anticipate significant power needs in the back. Does it still make sense to run a larger gauge power cable (1/0?) to the rear or would it be wasted $ and overkill? The plan is to terminate the power at a Blue Sea fuse block in the rear side cargo compartment, similarly to what [MENTION=123332]Drunner97[/MENTION] did.
Click to expand...

I did pretty much exactly this. Ran 4 gauge all the way back to a blue sea. I have an 85 amp or 65 amp ANL fuse with about a foot of wire away from the battery. I have a switch pro up front for lights and air compressor, but plan on using the rear blue sea for more work lights and accessories - like one 12volt plug is for my fridge.
 
Anybody going to the King of the Hammers race? A buddy and me are gonna go up there Feb 10-12 and probably camp out and watch the races. If anybody knows some good camp spots help a brother out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Spenny said:
I did pretty much exactly this. Ran 4 gauge all the way back to a blue sea. I have an 85 amp or 65 amp ANL fuse with about a foot of wire away from the battery. I have a switch pro up front for lights and air compressor, but plan on using the rear blue sea for more work lights and accessories - like one 12volt plug is for my fridge.
Click to expand...

We have the same plan. I also have a Switch Pro for my lights and compressor and then fuse block in the rear for other non-switch (or switched from the back) accessories. I've been really happy with the Switch Pro system so far.
 
The switch pro is the bees knees. I've started to redo all the lighting on my runner after I got rid of my roof rack. So right now nothing is hooked up to the switch panel :(
 
Well Big Bear was fun. Arrived the 20th, left the 23rd.

The rest of my party, (3 2WD Trucks) all broke chains, lost chains, and one broke a brake line, they all had to stay an extra day in the cabin because the trucks could not get out (we were on a steep hill)

My 4Runner AWD on 265/60/20 Wrangler SRA's (not the greatest but Snow rated) was able to make it out, but it wasn't exactly easy. This trip definitely got me wanting a lift and 285/70/17 tires on some FN 5 Stars
Jri1UFW.jpg
 
No course. I just downloaded an app that lets you take practice tests.I probably took about 40 of them.

There are 300 multiple choice questions and the test is only 35 of them. You need to get at least 26 correct.

You can also see the entire test bank with correct answers on the internet.

Edit: this is not a hard test. Easy enough anyone could get their license. It is way better than the fine the fcc could give you.
 
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