So I'm Replacing the Transmission... $0.02?

[TR[unner]D]

**DISCLAIMER: I know there is a lot here... If you can even answer one of the numbered questions below I would greatly appreciate it!

So I just picked up a 1998 SR5 4x4 with 258,000 on the clock for the wife a couple weeks ago. We got it one owner in really good shape for $1000.
The transmission took a crap on the previous owners and I know I can do the job myself at home. It shifts fine, but it has that sort of metallic 'pebbles in a can with water sloshing around' sound going on. But only when it is in gear (either drive or reverse).
I am assuming either the bearing on the stator between the transmission side and the engine side blades has gone bad (it sometimes takes 3000 rpm to get her to move in the morning when it's cold), or one of the blades has gotten old and given up the ghost somehow chipping and getting thrown around in the TC and probably getting pumped through the transmission which would mean that the trans is as good as toast anyway. (I read a couple of cases amongst 4runner and Tacoma forums where this had happened, with the same exact symptoms).

I picked up a used transmission from some local classifieds for $250 with a torque converter. Same trans. code, out of the same year, trim, and 4x4 4Runner with just under 250k on the clock. The guy's daughter wrecked it so he was parting a bunch of stuff out.

And now I'm getting ready to pull it (thanks to some awesome videos on YouTube I found on here via that fancy Google search feature BTW), and I have some questions I'd love your advice on.

1. The transmission I picked up also came with the old torque converter... Do I risk keeping it in there and just see how far she'll go on that, but then possibly have to pull the trans (hopefully not too soon) down the road and swap it out? I feel like I don't usually see many people having issues with the torque converters going out before other solenoids etc. in the transmission do. So is it worth running the one with the brand used transmission?

2. Do I get a new TC from a local parts store and pray it's not a piece of crap that fails in a year or less?

3. Should I look into having the TC that came with the brand used trans rebuilt somehow locally or sending it somewhere reputable (even if it may still be good for another 40-50k+)? If so, where would you suggest?

4. What all should I replace while I am in here? If the flex plate looks good I will probably roll the dice and keep running it. What seals should I replace? Rear main? Input and output shaft seals? What else should I replace? Part numbers would be awesome!

5. Any other tips, tricks, or recommendations you'd offer?

I would really appreciate any help or answer(s) offered.

**SIDE NOTE: My reasoning for making this thread is to offer some answers I was having a hard time finding amongst my past two weeks of researching, reading, and watching of various videos and topics. Hopefully this will be useful for future 4Runner fanatics such as myself whilst in a similar predicament.**

Thank you!

 

[phattyduck]

Here are my opinions, not to be taken as gospel:

1. Use the TC from the new to you transmission. Don't mess with it at all.

2. I wouldn't use major drivetrain components that aren't OEM. I would generally trust something with 200k+ miles on it over parts store parts...

3. See 1/2

4. If you don't see a rear main leak, I would leave it. They are pretty good at not leaking. I bought one when I did my trans swap, but everything was clean back there so I left it well enough alone.

5. You'll need a good trans jack and lots of extensions to get to the top bell housing bolts. Leave the exhaust in place unless you want to deal with broken fasteners. Everything else is pretty straightforward...

-Charlie

 

[gamefreakgc]

**DISCLAIMER: I know there is a lot here... If you can even answer one of the numbered questions below I would greatly appreciate it!

So I just picked up a 1998 SR5 4x4 with 258,000 on the clock for the wife a couple weeks ago. We got it one owner in really good shape for $1000.
The transmission took a crap on the previous owners and I know I can do the job myself at home. It shifts fine, but it has that sort of metallic 'pebbles in a can with water sloshing around' sound going on. But only when it is in gear (either drive or reverse).
I am assuming either the bearing on the stator between the transmission side and the engine side blades has gone bad (it sometimes takes 3000 rpm to get her to move in the morning when it's cold), or one of the blades has gotten old and given up the ghost somehow chipping and getting thrown around in the TC and probably getting pumped through the transmission which would mean that the trans is as good as toast anyway. (I read a couple of cases amongst 4runner and Tacoma forums where this had happened, with the same exact symptoms).

I picked up a used transmission from some local classifieds for $250 with a torque converter. Same trans. code, out of the same year, trim, and 4x4 4Runner with just under 250k on the clock. The guy's daughter wrecked it so he was parting a bunch of stuff out.

And now I'm getting ready to pull it (thanks to some awesome videos on YouTube I found on here via that fancy Google search feature BTW), and I have some questions I'd love your advice on.

1. The transmission I picked up also came with the old torque converter... Do I risk keeping it in there and just see how far she'll go on that, but then possibly have to pull the trans (hopefully not too soon) down the road and swap it out? I feel like I don't usually see many people having issues with the torque converters going out before other solenoids etc. in the transmission do. So is it worth running the one with the brand used transmission?

2. Do I get a new TC from a local parts store and pray it's not a piece of crap that fails in a year or less?

3. Should I look into having the TC that came with the brand used trans rebuilt somehow locally or sending it somewhere reputable (even if it may still be good for another 40-50k+)? If so, where would you suggest?

4. What all should I replace while I am in here? If the flex plate looks good I will probably roll the dice and keep running it. What seals should I replace? Rear main? Input and output shaft seals? What else should I replace? Part numbers would be awesome!

5. Any other tips, tricks, or recommendations you'd offer?

I would really appreciate any help or answer(s) offered.

**SIDE NOTE: My reasoning for making this thread is to offer some answers I was having a hard time finding amongst my past two weeks of researching, reading, and watching of various videos and topics. Hopefully this will be useful for future 4Runner fanatics such as myself whilst in a similar predicament.**

Thank you!

I agree with the other comment posted.

1. Use the "new" TC, don't take a potentially bad one and put it on a transmission that when last running, worked just fine. TC's rarely ever go bad on these vehicles.

2. Please no. Aftermarket parts are not very forgiving when it comes to critical parts on these Toyotas. Many of us drink the OEM kool-aid for a reason.

3. Same as above, don't touch it and it'll be good to you.

4. Just take some time and look around. I would not touch the rear main seal unless you have to. Often leaks from other parts of the engine are thought to be rear mains but are really the rear cam plugs, etc.

5. Make sure you have a transmission jack you can buy/borrow and 2 people to work on it. I've only pulled a transmission and I barely pulled that off by myself. Putting one back in is most definitely a 2 person job, they are stupid heavy. Also make sure all the wire clips are removed before you drop the transmission, there's a few on top that are hard to get to and are easily broken if not noticed.

 

[thegipper]

I would do what the other two have suggested. I also had to swap transmissions. It's a big job but no where near as much as swapping engines.

Personally, I would put in a new rear main seal (OEM of course). It literally took me 10 minutes to pull it off and install a new one. Look for any cracks on the flex plate, if you have to replace it get an OEM one.

A long ratcheting 12/14mm wrench (gear wrench sells one on amazon) comes in very hand, especially for the inspection cover bolts

Long extensions and a swivel for the bell housing bolts.

I had a very difficult time getting the transmission hard lines re-installed. If I had to do it again, I would disconnect them from the radiator and just feed them back.

A couple of the connectors up top are a pain to get to.

You'll definitely need a transmission jack and a helper.

Make sure when you reinstall the tranny that the torque converter is full seated. Spin and while pushing on it to make sure its all the way back.

 

[tim15328]

Long Extensions and swivel sockets are a must or that 12 o clock bolt is a pita!

 

[jhodro]

Long Extensions and swivel sockets are a must or that 12 o clock bolt is a pita!

I just pulled my engine last weekend and didn’t have any probs with the bell housing bolts. I removed the catalytic converter (single cat on my 98) and was able to reach up and get at that top bolt with a 3/8” ratchet and no extension.


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[heat]

I'd also probably flush the xmsn cooler and lines, clean out the shrapnel from the old box.

 

[TR[unner]D]

You guys are awesome. I felt like it was safest to do what you guys have been saying. Just want to make sure I get it right the first time. Haha.

I'll probably drop the pan on the "new" trans and replace the filter in there, and the gasket and all that as well. Should I avoid aftermarket trans filters and just go straight OEM? Or should I worry about it at all? I've heard good things about WIX but I'm not sure if they even make one for these 4Runners. I'll be talking a look today.

Definitely gonna flush all the lines and such as well. Should I just go ahead and upgrade to a trans cooler instead of hooking it all back up to the radiator? My 2000 had one on it when I bought it, and I personally really like the idea.

I've also heard it's a good idea to get new torque converter bolts while I'm at it... Should I even worry about it? I can always throw some blue loctite on them and not worry about it.

I'm a huge fan of OEM as well. Especially on those lower ball joints. That was the first thing I did on her 4Runner since we have been driving it a little bit. Hahaha. Cheers to that OEM Kool-aid. :beer:

I'll be picking up the ratcheting swivel wrenches this week so that will be awesome. I've already had so many projects where I wished I had these... Darnit.

Anyways. Thanks again you guys! The advice is invaluable. Seriously. Especially from people who have done it themselves! So really, THANK YOU.

 

[gamefreakgc]

You guys are awesome. I felt like it was safest to do what you guys have been saying. Just want to make sure I get it right the first time. Haha.

I'll probably drop the pan on the "new" trans and replace the filter in there, and the gasket and all that as well. Should I avoid aftermarket trans filters and just go straight OEM? Or should I worry about it at all? I've heard good things about WIX but I'm not sure if they even make one for these 4Runners. I'll be talking a look today.

Definitely gonna flush all the lines and such as well. Should I just go ahead and upgrade to a trans cooler instead of hooking it all back up to the radiator? My 2000 had one on it when I bought it, and I personally really like the idea.

I've also heard it's a good idea to get new torque converter bolts while I'm at it... Should I even worry about it? I can always throw some blue loctite on them and not worry about it.

I'm a huge fan of OEM as well. Especially on those lower ball joints. That was the first thing I did on her 4Runner since we have been driving it a little bit. Hahaha. Cheers to that OEM Kool-aid. :beer:

I'll be picking up the ratcheting swivel wrenches this week so that will be awesome. I've already had so many projects where I wished I had these... Darnit.

Anyways. Thanks again you guys! The advice is invaluable. Seriously. Especially from people who have done it themselves! So really, THANK YOU.

Haha, swivel wrenches, wobble extentions and u-joint sockets are things I should have bought a long time ago too!

The transmission filter is not as critical, it's a simple wire mesh. As long as fitment is good aftermarket is just fine. Be sure to clean up the magnets on the the bottom of the new pan and save yourself some frustration and buy a solid gasket for the transmission pan, not the goopy sealant stuff.

 

[TR[unner]D]

Haha, swivel wrenches, wobble extentions and u-joint sockets are things I should have bought a long time ago too!

The transmission filter is not as critical, it's a simple wire mesh. As long as fitment is good aftermarket is just fine. Be sure to clean up the magnets on the the bottom of the new pan and save yourself some frustration and buy a solid gasket for the transmission pan, not the goopy sealant stuff.

Amen to that. Hahaha I'm slowly expanding my arsenal of tools. With the money I've saved doin my own projects (especially the $200 I spent on new inner and outer tie rods when the dealer said I needed a whole new steering rack and everything connected to it and wanted over $2500 for the job when I went in for a $80 alignment), I should be able to afford a whole cartload of tools. :rofl:

That's what I have been told. Some people say you can even like clean it out? But I've heard that it's impossible also. So I may as well just do some reading. Haha.

Amen to that also. That goopy stuff is the worst. A solid gasket is on the parts list.

I also meant to ask, are there any other gaskets I should replace? transfer case or transmission input/output seals?

Thanks again you guys. You're the best.

 

[thegipper]

If they are not leaking, I would leave them alone. Just triple check to make sure you spun the torque converter while pushing on it and that it clunks two times indicating that it is fully seated.

I may have burned up my pump and wrecked my torque converter doing this (facepalm).

 

[phattyduck]

The transmission filter is not as critical, it's a simple wire mesh.

The one critical thing: The 2WD pickup/filter is different than the 4WD pickup/filter. Get the right one if you do choose to get a new one!

I personally wouldn't worry about it though. Just do a drain and refill with each of the next couple oil changes...

-Charlie

 

[audiness]

In my experience Toyota torque converters rarely (almost unheard of ) go bad .

Also. I would just pull the motor to swap the trans . It’s overall easier than changing out a trans laying on your back . Trust me I have done it both ways

 

[Chim]

In my experience Toyota torque converters rarely (almost unheard of ) go bad .

Also. I would just pull the motor to swap the trans . It’s overall easier than changing out a trans laying on your back . Trust me I have done it both ways

What?!?!!?! No.. this is just nutty.

 

[MStudt]

Long Extensions and swivel sockets are a must or that 12 o clock bolt is a pita!

The trick is to get that one through the shifter opening in the cab.

 

[thegipper]

In my experience Toyota torque converters rarely (almost unheard of ) go bad .

Also. I would just pull the motor to swap the trans . It’s overall easier than changing out a trans laying on your back . Trust me I have done it both ways

This has to be a joke. Pulling the motor is easier than pulling the trans? I've done both and on this planet, there is no way pulling the motor is easier.

Hope you're kidding....

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[AntleredRuin]

When I pulled my tranny filter when I first got my 4runner, I just cleaned and reused it. I hosed it out real good both ways with carb cleaner and then air compressed it dry. Food for thought.

 

[thegipper]

When I pulled my tranny filter when I first got my 4runner, I just cleaned and reused it. I hosed it out real good both ways with carb cleaner and then air compressed it dry. Food for thought.

I used to think the same until I cut open an old filter that I "cleaned". Turns out, it's nearly impossible to clean all of the filter surface since you only have a couple small openings. Plus the glued on cork gasket on mine fell off and was pretty compressed.

I posted pictures in another thread.

I'll just be buying a new filter when/if I do it in the future.