So my locker won't engage...

[Rifter]

HI guys, had the new toy for 2 days now, got it into a dirt yard today to test the 4x4 and the rear locker won't engage.

All other 4x4 works fine, HI and lo. But rear locker light on dash just flashes. I checked to make sure it really has a locker and it does have the wiring harness going to the diff and it is connected.

I know about doing quick s turns to help it lock in and that didn't help. I was only trying in low range, obviously.

Suggestions?

 

[mwrohde]

Were you in 4-lo when you tried?

 

[mwrohde]

Damn. I finally read to the end. Sorry.

 

[blaze17]

I just fixed mine a few months ago. I had a broken wire inside the insulation. Found it by removing the wire harness between the locker and the body and checking continuity on each wire.

 

[Rifter]

I just fixed mine a few months ago. I had a broken wire inside the insulation. Found it by removing the wire harness between the locker and the body and checking continuity on each wire.

yeah im looking for a wiring diagram and the factory manual for this thing right now to assist me in troubleshooting this further.

 

[hawaiian05]

Assuming there's no electrical issues, it may just be stuck or seized in the unlocked position due to lack of use. You can try removing the actuator and bench testing it. You can also try to "exercise" the lock itself by sliding the teeth back and forth in the diff. This is what I had to do to free mines up. Once functioning, get in the habit of engaging it once a month or so.

 

[Rifter]

Found the repair manual. Wire to the actuator is getting power when button on dash is pressed. So I think the actuator is bad or seized. Will look into this more on the weekend.

How much will a new actuator run me if it's not repairable ?

 

[C-RAIG]

Found the repair manual. Wire to the actuator is getting power when button on dash is pressed. So I think the actuator is bad or seized. Will look into this more on the weekend.

How much will a new actuator run me if it's not repairable ?

I think they are about $700. I took the actuator out of my Tacoma and went through it, cleaned it all up and it worked flawlessly.

 

[BrandonF]

Found the repair manual. Wire to the actuator is getting power when button on dash is pressed. So I think the actuator is bad or seized. Will look into this more on the weekend.

How much will a new actuator run me if it's not repairable ?

They are expensive to replace. I can almost guarantee that it's easily repairable.

Mine turned out to be that the magnets inside the actuator had broken loose and all shifted to one side, therefore not allowing the motor to do a full rotation. All I did was rearrange them and glue in place. Cost me nothing.

Start with a bench test though, as mentioned. I found out the magnets had shifted because when I benched tested it, it would only move a couple degrees in each direction, telling me it was "stuck" between two magnets.

 

[rd337]

Mine wasn't working either so I pulled it out to check.
Low quality aluminum casting on steel axle with no insulation between the two meant they got seized together a bit. During the removal, parts of the housing was left behind on the axle.
I could feel the electric motor moving but the gear wasn't moving, which was a good sign... ish.

I pulled the cover off, or tried to at least. Rusted/seized screws.... Thank goodness for snapon parrot pliers. Probably the most valuable pliers ever
During the removal of the cover, it also broke apart... mainly the collar where the tear was got left behind.
That was exactly why my locker wouldn't engage.... gear shaft seized to cover.

I built another cover out of aluminum, threw a chunk of aluminum rod on the lathe and turned up a replacement piece. had a friend tig it all up. Opened the motor cover to see if the magnets were about to fall off (common problem) and sure enough 2 of them came off with a gentle prying. Jb welded them all back on, lubed everything back up, RTV sealant (surfaces were too crumbly for an o-ring and aluminum was breaking apart too easily... strange but oh well)
I did put o-rings between the shaft and collar in the cover as well as collar and axle (machined a groove in the collar for that).

Found a picture of roughly where you want the position the gear as you are assembling. Plugged it in, turn the key to on, neutral, 4lo, engage locker. It worked. So then I stuck a screw driver into my axle to move the shaft to locked position and reinstalled.


hope that gives you an idea of what i'd imagine is the borderline rebuildable locker actuator.

Overall it's a tough component internally. I don't see how the gears could shred themselves and there is so much reduction that the motor is more than capable of handling it for decades. The only 3 downfalls are the crappy glue for the magnets, weak housing, and horribly crappy grease.

I just threw some molybdenum grease which I had lying around, it's used in the final drive gears of my motorcycle so must have good shear strength, it's slippery and water resistant. But at this point even wheel bearing grease beats the dried up grease in there.

Oh and check that the breather hose isn't plugged

Good luck!

 

[Rifter]

Finally got around to tearing this down......

Actuator is not repairable, someone had been in there before and there was silicone globbed all over everything.

Springs are missing, 2 magnets are cracked, as is the housing the magnets are supposed to be glued to. Looks like it was seized into the diff housing at one point and they used a hammer to break it off, cracking the housing where the magnets are glued to.


So my options are buy a elocker third member(since no one will sell just the actuator used.....) for $500-1000. Or buy a cable conversion. Or buy a new actuator from Toyota, called every local dealership here near Vancouver and the cheapest I was quoted was just over $1000.

Im leaning towards cable conversion for reliability reasons. What are your guys thoughts on the cable conversions?

 

[Dephcon]

I can't offer any helpful suggestions other than, keep me posted on the cable conversion system. My e-Locker isn't working either, but I haven't looked to much into why. I can hear the actuator motor, but the diff doesn't lock.

 

[Rifter]

I can't offer any helpful suggestions other than, keep me posted on the cable conversion system. My e-Locker isn't working either, but I haven't looked to much into why. I can hear the actuator motor, but the diff doesn't lock.

I will likely go with the chilkat designs cable conversion kit when I can save up some cash. its not a priority though as the runner needs some more important things fixed first, like the leaking valve covers.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

I'm having the same issue. My e-locker won't engage, just flashes.

I tried all the usual things like the tight s-turns and such, but to no avail.

I have no idea when it was last used as I just bought this truck in January.

PO did wheel with it though, so I can't imagine that it hasn't at least been used a couple of times in the last 5-6 years.

 

[Rifter]

I'm having the same issue. My e-locker won't engage, just flashes.

I tried all the usual things like the tight s-turns and such, but to no avail.

I have no idea when it was last used as I just bought this truck in January.

PO did wheel with it though, so I can't imagine that it hasn't at least been used a couple of times in the last 5-6 years.

Its very easy to pull off and look, just a few bolts, can be removed without taking anything else off the truck. You might get lucky like a lot of people seem to and be able to rebuilt it I just want so lucky my PO was a complete moron.

 

[Dephcon]

I will likely go with the chilkat designs cable conversion kit when I can save up some cash. its not a priority though as the runner needs some more important things fixed first, like the leaking valve covers.

That is a super simple design for a replacement. I would just have issues finding a location to put the hand shifter. (under drivers seat with the handle sticking out slightly past the seat). In any case a good option for a replacement.

 

[Rifter]

That is a super simple design for a replacement. I would just have issues finding a location to put the hand shifter. (under drivers seat with the handle sticking out slightly past the seat). In any case a good option for a replacement.

Yeah I haven't given it much thought, might just buy the manual actuator from them as its cheaper and then fab up my own way to throw it, maybe just run a foot or two of wire to a throw on the end of the axel and have to get out to throw it from behind the rear wheel/tire.

 

[BrianSD_42]

many times my locker fully engages but the light keeps blinking.

it is because of a bad sensor that tellls the system the locker engaged.

you have to have a second person listen under the rear of the truck to hear if it is engaging.

this could very well be your situation.

 

[SpidermanGeek]

For me, I'm pretty sure it wasn't locking because I didn't feel a difference in traction and I was doing the S-Turns.

My rig's PO says he hadn't used it since doing the axle seals a year or two ago. He thinks maybe something got bumped on disconnected. I dunno, I'll inspect once the snow melts.