soft clutch pedal

tortex53

New member
Is it possible to adjust the clutch pedal? I have a 5 speed '92 4runner. In order to disengage the clutch, you have to push the pedal ALL the way to the floor. There is less than an inch before the clutch begins to engage. Is this because my clutch is old and on its way out, or maybe the system needs to be bled?
 
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Bleed the clutch

My 4runner has a hydraulic clutch so I assume yours does too.

I had to replace the clutch slave cylinder because it was leaking. I think that this is fairly common. You should check yours.

The reservoir for the hydraulic clutch should be up in the driver side corner of the engine bay. Check to make sure there's enough fluid in there. I think it takes dot3 brake fluid.

The slave cylinder can be seen through the passenger side front fender. It's bolted on the bellhouse I think, and it actuates an arm that comes out the side of the bellhouse. (The bellhouse is where the transmission and engine connect)

I could tell just by looking at the slave cylinder on mine when it was leaking.

If it is leaking than you will have to replace it. I got one for less than $30 at auto parts extra. If it's a small leak than you can probably just bleed the clutch and make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level.

If you have to bleed the clutch than it's the same as bleeding brakes.

Tell me how you make out and if this was any help to you. If you have any other questions just ask.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the reply. I've checked the fluid level several times, and it is good. I was changing my transmission fluid so I was under there and I didn't notice the slave cylinder leaking at all. Does this problem sound like a worn clutch, or would bleeding the system fix the problem that I mentioned?
 
I would think that bleeding the clutch would be worth while just to eliminate the possibility.

Hopefully your bleeder screw isn't too hard to loosen. A six sided box end wrench or a flare nut wrench works best. Don't use an open end wrench because the bleeder screws tend to be soft and are easily rounded off.

One method that I found works good, if you have the room, is to use the flare nut wrench and clamp the sides with vicegrips. (I just found the picture online so don't give me credit for running out to my garage and taking it)

Ask if you need to know how to bleed the clutch.
 

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How about a squeaky clutch?

I have a squeaky clutch and it tends freeze up in the winter and not want to disengage. Ever have that problem? I was just curious because I never had that problem before.
 
I'm having the same problem

There's a lot of fluid down by my tranny because I can see it from my passenger wheel well, think it's my slave cylinder. If I buy a new slave cylinder, what's the procedure in replacing it? I've done some bleeding with my brakes... but the bleeding the clutch is the same?
 
There's a lot of fluid down by my tranny because I can see it from my passenger wheel well, think it's my slave cylinder. If I buy a new slave cylinder, what's the procedure in replacing it? I've done some bleeding with my brakes... but the bleeding the clutch is the same?


Download the FSM at the top of the section. It will tell you everything you need to know for your clutch issues.

In short, yes. Bleeding your clutch is the same as bleeding your brakes. I would clean the whole area first and make sure that it's your slave cyl that's leaking. Starting with a clean area will make identifying the problem easier.
 
There's a lot of fluid down by my tranny because I can see it from my passenger wheel well, think it's my slave cylinder. If I buy a new slave cylinder, what's the procedure in replacing it? I've done some bleeding with my brakes... but the bleeding the clutch is the same?

Unbolt the bad one, bolt new one on, bleed it using the bleeder screw just like the brakes. Make sure the MC is topped off with fluid.
 

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