Solid front axle, how???

Purchased a solid front axle from a 81 toyota pickup, was thinking to purchase the IFS eliminator kit from trail gear, but that kits for 2nd gen 4runners, would it still work?? any other kits out there for the 3rd gen?? any write ups that show how to do this?? thanks
 
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You can use the Tacoma kits... 3 link or leaf conversions, but there are many hidden details depending on which route you take... Best thing to do is search threads and builds
 
Purchased a solid front axle from a 81 toyota pickup, was thinking to purchase the IFS eliminator kit from trail gear, but that kits for 2nd gen 4runners, would it still work?? any other kits out there for the 3rd gen?? any write ups that show how to do this?? thanks

Do some serious research before you start buying more stuff!
 
Do some serious research before you start buying more stuff!

Ya i am and have been, and it looks scary... now im thinking to leave the IFS and just grab an arb air locker. But is a solid axle that much better then IFS? Im thinking solid axle would be needed when running lots of power so maybe i dont need it considering i only have a 4cyl
 
Purchased a solid front axle from a 81 toyota pickup, was thinking to purchase the IFS eliminator kit from trail gear, but that kits for 2nd gen 4runners, would it still work?? any other kits out there for the 3rd gen?? any write ups that show how to do this?? thanks

This is the current favorite. Trail Gear seams a little too street oriented for me.

Toyota 3 Link Kit
 
You can use the Tacoma kits... 3 link or leaf conversions, but there are many hidden details depending on which route you take... Best thing to do is search threads and builds

Found a tacoma IFS kit from trail gear, my confidence is back... but still a bit scared. Thanks
 
Ya i am and have been, and it looks scary... now im thinking to leave the IFS and just grab an arb air locker. But is a solid axle that much better then IFS? Im thinking solid axle would be needed when running lots of power so maybe i dont need it considering i only have a 4cyl

800hp buggies in KOH run IFS, don't underestimate it. You should first prove that you NEED a solid axle since the IFS is extremely capable and strong. Unless you're just doing it since it's a cool project which is fine too!

Why are you wanting to do a SAS?
 
800hp buggies in KOH run IFS, don't underestimate it. You should first prove that you NEED a solid axle since the IFS is extremely capable and strong. Unless you're just doing it since it's a cool project which is fine too!

Why are you wanting to do a SAS?

You make a good point. i just want to do it because most everyone says its the way to go and a lot stronger, i dont want to constantly brake drive shafts. Ive read reviews of people doing the conversion and say its completely different and better, they get more flex and take more of a beating
 
You make a good point. i just want to do it because most everyone says its the way to go and a lot stronger, i dont want to constantly brake drive shafts. Ive read reviews of people doing the conversion and say its completely different and better, they get more flex and take more of a beating

They are stronger and more simple by design, but that's not to say you can't make an incredible strong IFS that will take as much abuse as a solid axle though it may take more engineering to get it to that point.

Have you ever broken an axle shaft? If you don't have a front locker it'll be pretty hard to break a CV, and even if you do and are smart with it you should be fine for the most part. And don't think a SA is an easy way out, if you talk to Jeep guys they are all about swapping to bigger axles to spin big tires and get chromoly axles and breaking shit, etc. It's not just swap an axle in and you suddenly are bulletproof, you might want to build up your axle first. Though this comes back to what your objective is, swapping in an old Toyota axle might be fine if you only plan to run up to 35s or something.

Also keep in mind the ride will inherently be more rough with a solid axle, so if it's your daily driver you might want to consider that.

They will certainly flex better on rocks, but unless you are doing hardcore rock crawling a good IFS will keep up no sweat.
 
They are stronger and more simple by design, but that's not to say you can't make an incredible strong IFS that will take as much abuse as a solid axle though it may take more engineering to get it to that point.

Have you ever broken an axle shaft? If you don't have a front locker it'll be pretty hard to break a CV, and even if you do and are smart with it you should be fine for the most part. And don't think a SA is an easy way out, if you talk to Jeep guys they are all about swapping to bigger axles to spin big tires and get chromoly axles and breaking shit, etc. It's not just swap an axle in and you suddenly are bulletproof, you might want to build up your axle first. Though this comes back to what your objective is, swapping in an old Toyota axle might be fine if you only plan to run up to 35s or something.

Also keep in mind the ride will inherently be more rough with a solid axle, so if it's your daily driver you might want to consider that.

They will certainly flex better on rocks, but unless you are doing hardcore rock crawling a good IFS will keep up no sweat.

another good point, i have broken an axle, but it was from wear and tear and was going since the day i bought it, it was an easy fix though. i dont have an ARB locker but now im gonna grab one since i dont think ill be doing the conversion. Has anyone ran the locker on there cars for a few years? Did it brake a lot of things like drive shafts ect.
 
A few people here have lockers in their front diff. You need to be very careful off road when you have the front end locked. You can break axles easier, but if you aren't stupid with the lines you take, and how you take them you can also get over and through obstacles much easier.

If you don't have a rear locker, I would start there rather than the front.
 
Building skill in a rig with both front and rear diffs open is a great place to start. This will go a long way to keep you safer since you won't be trying to climb things that you shouldn't. As your skills increase, locking the rear will get you thru tons. The guys that I wheel hard with, most are unlocked. You will be amazed what the 4runner will do with driver skill, good wheel placement and a good spotter.

As far as "driveshafts", I think you are talking about front CV axles, correct?
I have thousands of miles wheeling and I'm on my original axles. If you do break one, carry a spare, the proper tools and know how to change them in the field. Also ONLY use Toyota OE or OE rebuilds. The auto parts store "lifetime warranty" axles are made from cheap steel that is poorly heat treated. The break easier and sometimes inside the front diff.
 
If you are learning to wheel and are wheeling with guys that HAVE to have solid front axles, you are wheeling with the wrong group.

IFS, open/open diffs
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Ya i am and have been, and it looks scary... now im thinking to leave the IFS and just grab an arb air locker. But is a solid axle that much better then IFS? Im thinking solid axle would be needed when running lots of power so maybe i dont need it considering i only have a 4cyl

It looks like you have tons of suggestions already. If you want to do some serious rock crawling, solid axle is the way to go. That said, I have a friend that wheels a ifs Tacoma and goes everywhere I go with my SFA pickup.

You lose a considerable amount of street drive-ability when you do a SAS. The reason I have my 4runner is because my pickup is downright uncomfortable to daily drive. SFA DD's can be done, and many people do it, but it takes a lot of planning on how everything is set up.

Lockers will get you most anywhere you want to go, and even some places you probably shouldn't :D
 
Wow do i sound like that much of a newb lol ive been off roading for a few years now, built my 4runner all by my self, rears already locked. Im from Calgary Alberta... thats in Canada, we dont have much rock crawling, mostly just a lot of mud and mountains, some rocks though

<a href="http://s1222.photobucket.com/user/RR_600_RR/media/off.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/RR_600_RR/off.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo off.jpg"/></a>
 
Having just finished my SAS, I would say HOLY CRAP!!!! If you don't need it avoid it!! I love mine, but it is a ton of work. For what I do it is worth it but I built if for offroad specific. It rarely sees pavement. I built mine with a Dana 44 front end out of a wagoneer. The mini truck ('81 Toyota) axle will require you to convert to a passenger drop gear driven t-case, which also means $$$$.

By the way nice lookin rig!!
 
Having built a 3rd gen 4runner before and about to do it again and then numerous solid axle rigs (both leaf sprung and linked), I will say, unless you absolutely HAVE to have a SFA, its going to be way more time and investment than you will probably get out of it in return. Parts are no substitute for time behind the wheel. Personal opinion, leave the front open. Unless you just have to have a front locker and then sink some money into spare CV's (OEM Toyota), you're not going to go that many more places than you can open front on IFS to make it worth it.

Cool factor, yes an SAS is cool on any vehicle. I could definitely justify it if you are about to have to overhaul a bunch of steering components and had the budget to throw a locker in the front. Then you are closing in on SAS cost. Otherwise if it aint broke don't fix it.
 
you're not going to go that many more places than you can open front on IFS to make it worth it.

Wow, no disrespect because we all have opinions. But I strongly disagree with this statement in regard to the open front. That is not to say the OP needs a locker, but having one CAN, and frequently DOES make the difference between getting over an obstacle or not. And not bouncing around trying to get traction minimizes damage.

If it means turning around, or making it to camp, it's worth it. It might only be needed 1% of the trail, but that could be everything. SAS is not for everyone, but selectable front lockers are the most bang for the buck for even a mildly built truck.

:couch2:
 
Everyone is answering this question all wrong. The question is, What size tire do you want to run for how you wheel? You wheel in a lot of mud so the answer is bigger and wider for higher flotation and you will need deep gears to turn them.

As far as streetability, there is nothing wrong with a solid axle. The geometries are not that complicated especially with leaf springs. The hardest part will be fitting a saginaw style steering box to get your geometries right. The big factors to keep it streetable will be about 7 degrees of caster with 1/8" toe and the draglink and trac-bar(panhard bar) need to be parallel.

Leaf springs will be the harshest ride but you can throw a set of hoops under there and run a set of coilovers or ORI Struts (BAD ASS). ORI's also allow you to throw away the swaybar. Its all up to you. My runner is a stock DD/family car. I also have a lifted Superduty and a built (not bolt on) buggy for the trail.

I built a double triangulated 4-link in my buggy. All custom. Don't let people scare you.
 

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