SOLVED: Is This Normal for Lower Control Arm?

Cool, thanks Tim, I didn't look at the details yet, so this is good to know. And I replaced the rack bushings a couple of years ago, so those should still be good.

I'm mentally trading off spending $50-70 on each arm new bushings, vs getting new Toyota arms for about $200 each and saving all the press work. I'll probably just replace the bushings, but will ponder a bit more.

I hope you choose to replace just the bushings. You know, $260 can buy you a lot of beer.
 
Sounds like a party at Leon's place :)

It'll be a short party. Once the LCA's are out it takes less then 10 minutes per side to press out the old bushings and put the new ones in. I used Whitelines and froze them for 48 hours before the install. I literally tapped them in with a rubber mallet. I've got about 7000 on them and they are still fine. At least 1/4 of that is wheeling miles. If they can survive what I do to them I'm sure you'll be fine. lol

Tools of the trade:


s2eJeJZh.jpg
 
Yes, but I'll need help drinking all the beer :).

It's funny, you posted just as I was researching "Whitelines vs OEM". I was leaning OEM, but am open to other options, especially if they are half the price. Why did you choose Whitelines over OEM?
 
Honestly, I could get the Whitelines in 2 days from Amazon. OEM would have taken a week. I ordered Wednesday and installed them Saturday. Wheeled Saturday afternoon and Sunday. lol
 
Are they any harsher or noisier than OEM?

Not that I've noticed but keep in mind I'm on 35" PitBull Rockers. The only thing I hear are those. I'm also running a pretty beefy sound system so I just crank that up to drown out the tire noise. My rig could throw a rod and I probably wouldn't hear it. lol
 
Are they any harsher or noisier than OEM?

I've had my whitelines in for 60,000+ miles. No signs of wear, feel as normal as OEM & no noise. I've only greased them once during install. You'll be good with OEM or whitelines. Whitelines are just cheaper.
 
I was hoping Leon that you would take the saved $$$ and procure some new front shocks for your ride if the Tokicos are original.
 
So I'm back with new LCA bushings. Fairly easy to replace them, thanks to the alluded to "bottle jack and MAPP gas" method :). I spent more time painting stuff than I did wrenching.

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And to answer the original question? Yes and no - it's normal to be able to move the LCA's up and down, even with the bolts fully torqued. Don't ask me why, it makes no sense to me. But, compare the new movement to the one in first post - zero creaking! So, it was not all for naught!

Before:


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TxoyRfQrLLk" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


After:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wP7Ou0mPamY" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


.
 
It's POR-15, the best stuff ever made. Sticks to anything (including your skin), and hard as a rock when it's dry. Doesn't require too much prep - scuff the surface, remove heavy rust (no need to go to bare metal), hit it with degreaser and metal prep, and go wild.
 
POR15 is great although any sort of paint will always stick better to the bare metal. i recommend you atleast get the rust/surface rust off the LCAs and then coat that way (AFTER cleaning your arms very well). i would completely strip my arms, but i dont have enough time.

i also recommend you put poly bushings in these, i went with the sonoran steel ones (strong flex). unless your rig is bone stock and not used for anything fun, why replace with rubber? if you can swing it, i also recommend the Eimkeith LCA reinforcement kit; they tie everything in together and make the bottom rivets disappear into a skid plate. :)

OP, i think your arms move because of the OEM bushing design. the metal spacers probably help relieve the tension with the rubber. although i will say i am still surprised to see them move that easy. glad to hear you spend more time painting as i will be installing my spare set of LCAs on thanksgiving.
 
POR15 is great although any sort of paint will always stick better to the bare metal. i recommend you atleast get the rust/surface rust off the LCAs and then coat that way (AFTER cleaning your arms very well).

POR-15 adheres best to surface rust (not flaking off). From their website: "POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation."
 

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