Some advice on a 22re please

[mikekfr]

Today, i brought home my '94 yota p'up i got in a great barter deal, ( next to free ). The deal is it blew a head gasket and the owner took the head off, had the head machined, and pretty much stopped there, i believe due to a lack of knowledge & $$. So the entire top half of the engine was inside the cab, however the truck is in pretty good shape for having been a work truck all it's life.

So the advice part...there was a little water/condensation sitting atop 1 or 2 of the pistons, as the hood was unbolted and was just set in place, letting 'some' rain in over the past months/year.

My friend ( tonight ) took the connecting rods, bearings & pistons out and didn't find anything broken or damaged. He explained what he was looking for as he took parts off, and how some of the rings had some rust on them and weren't moving freely. But overall, 2 of the cylinder walls felt smooth and just seemed to have surface rust on the top of the other two where the water/rain sat.

Wanting to go fwd, how do i decide to either, try cleaning the cylinders of the rust and rebuilding stuff as i go forward? OR find a engine in better shape ( running perhaps ) and scrap this block? I've never had an engine bored out, i know there's a few used 22re's for $300-$400 local, that would probably require a rebuild, but would 'hopefully' have better looking cylinders. I'm not afraid to do the work of cleaning the rust up....i just don't know at what point, how bad the rust is, to where it just isn't worth the time & energy & $.

I hope the pics will show the engine/cylinders condition ( cell phone pics tonight )...i can take better pics tomorrow. Thanks for any advice or direction. ray:

 

[ShoNuff.]

its hard to tell in the pics how bad the rust is.

use a 3m scrubber to remove the big stuff, then go get a cylinder hone. a couple passes should clean up surface rust and still be useable. if you see any pitting beyond surface rust it will need boring. the rings are hardend steel, clean those up first to get an idea of how bad the cyl may be pitted if really at all.

in a nutshell, its probably fixable, unless the rust has eaten the cyl walls too far to bore.

first step is to clean out the rust

 

[mikekfr]

Thanks, i have a morning appt and plan to get right over there afterwards.....i'll take my camera and clean it up the best i can.

 

[DeclansDaddy]

Yea man that rust should hone right out. Make sure you use plenty of lube when you hone. If there's still pitting then I'd just get it punched out. Macs up in White Stone did those 3.0 heads for me pretty cheap. I'd bet he'd be pretty cheap to bore her out.

 

[mikekfr]

I have to wait on the honing/honing tool due to $ & the lack thereof with the Valentine day/ Anniversary weekend thing....so i used what i had....plenty of pb blaster and some green scotchbrites. The cylinders feel very smooth, even where the rust is....i'll try to get myself a honing tool soon, ,maybe next week or the week after, i gotta get back on some Barracuda seats to make some $$ next week. The crank turns nice & freely and makes absolutley no noise, this is my first time this deep inside an engine. Excited !! hoto:

 

[mikekfr]

I've read tons on this forum about the timing chain wearing it's way thru the side & this one was well on it's way. The plastic guides are broken, i think i read here lastnight about some metal guides replacement. The entire top end was in the floorboard when i picked it up....gonna be quite the challenge if this motor is fixable and placing parts where they belong WHEN THEY'RE SUPPOSED TO GO THERE & NOT BEFORE OR AFTER!!..



Gonna go read up on the head gasket and which one to get & NOT to get. The OP bought a gasket set and had it inside but i'm not sure the head gasket was included.

 

[Link12]

Man, you have it that far apart you might as well rebuild it. If you put it back together be sure and get you a tap and tap the head bolt holes in the block. They get carbon in them and you won't get a proper torque on the bolts. I also always replace the head bolts when I do it. They also can have stressed threads from previous torque and will also make I not torque back properly.

 

[mikekfr]

I'm for sure rebuilding it.....the only debate is if the block ( cylinders ) aren't too rusted....i'm def. gonna rebuild all that my pockets will let me.....i want to have a brand new engine when i finally turn the key.

 

[Link12]

I'm for sure rebuilding it.....the only debate is if the block ( cylinders ) aren't too rusted....i'm def. gonna rebuild all that my pockets will let me.....i want to have a brand new engine when i finally turn the key.

I would just let a shop check it and hone it if possible. You could go ahead a bore it 30 over and it for sure be good to go. I had a 22r 30 over with a TRD stage 2 cam I built and put in my buggy and you could twist it hard and I did a lot and it did great.

 

[mikekfr]

No overheat issues with the .30 over?

 

[Link12]

No overheat issues with the .30 over?

Nope, I never saw it go up from normal operating temp.

 

[Link12]

I had her on propane with the timing set 8 degrees advanced.

 

[mikekfr]

Damn, that's insane !! Looks like tons of fun