some advice...
- Thread starter Pinoiian
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TheSentinel
New member
Well bud, anything they try to sell you at the financing office will most likely be overpriced. Stay away from the paint protection (usually just a special wax job), over priced extended warranties that you don't have to buy yet (you have 36k miles to buy a Platinum warranty), maintenance plans that only change your oil at 10k miles, interior protection for hundreds of dollars (buy a few cans of scotchguard and husky floormats). Watch for additional fees in the paperwork. Good luck and enjoy your new truck.
Snooperstyle
Member
Speaking of the finance office, you have a lot of room to negotiate when you get to that point in the buying process. Before you get there, you need to set your purchase price with the sales rep. Don't go into the finance office without a written price. Read these forums to see what people are paying for these things. Do not up your price in order to get lower interest rate, it will not benefit you in the long run.
My finance department knocked off the interest rate by a whole point by shopping my loan around to different banks...so they did help me there. The rate was lower than anything I found by calling banks on my own.
The finance guy has the power to remove the deductible from your platinum warranty...at no charge to you. Just ***** about how the warranties are not worth it unless the deductibles are ZERO.
He also has the power to sell it to you at a significant discount. They start at like $2000 for the 7yr/100k platinum deal. You can get it for under $1000. Find that dealer (see link below) that was offering the platinum warranty for really cheap, and then use that as a negotiating point when you buy (wish I would have). If your finance guy won't meet that price, then buy the car without the warranty and get the warranty at a later time after you have your truck from the other dealer. It won't affect the warranty price as long as you do it soon after buying, but check with the other dealer first! Here ya go:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/74472-extended-warranty-question.html
The maintenance plan includes oil changes, but at 10k intervals. This is because the dealers now use only synthetic oil. This is normal these days. You do take it in for a 5k interval as well, where they will rotate your tires and do a few other things. Synthetic oil changes cost about twice as much as regular ones, so your value is not really sacrificed here, but you could ***** about that and get them to come down on the maintenance price because of it. Again, he has a WHOLE LOT of room to come down on that.
EDIT:
Make sure you check with your insurance agent before purchasing gap insurance or whatever it is called. I believe insures you for the difference between your insurance settlement and your loan balance in the event of a loss if it happen soon after you own it.
(End EDIT)
Most dealers charge a $399 fee for paperwork, processing, etc. Or some amount. I tried to get them to wipe this and simply could not get them to budge on that one.
All that stuff really adds up!
Good luck!
My finance department knocked off the interest rate by a whole point by shopping my loan around to different banks...so they did help me there. The rate was lower than anything I found by calling banks on my own.
The finance guy has the power to remove the deductible from your platinum warranty...at no charge to you. Just ***** about how the warranties are not worth it unless the deductibles are ZERO.
He also has the power to sell it to you at a significant discount. They start at like $2000 for the 7yr/100k platinum deal. You can get it for under $1000. Find that dealer (see link below) that was offering the platinum warranty for really cheap, and then use that as a negotiating point when you buy (wish I would have). If your finance guy won't meet that price, then buy the car without the warranty and get the warranty at a later time after you have your truck from the other dealer. It won't affect the warranty price as long as you do it soon after buying, but check with the other dealer first! Here ya go:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/74472-extended-warranty-question.html
The maintenance plan includes oil changes, but at 10k intervals. This is because the dealers now use only synthetic oil. This is normal these days. You do take it in for a 5k interval as well, where they will rotate your tires and do a few other things. Synthetic oil changes cost about twice as much as regular ones, so your value is not really sacrificed here, but you could ***** about that and get them to come down on the maintenance price because of it. Again, he has a WHOLE LOT of room to come down on that.
EDIT:
Make sure you check with your insurance agent before purchasing gap insurance or whatever it is called. I believe insures you for the difference between your insurance settlement and your loan balance in the event of a loss if it happen soon after you own it.
(End EDIT)
Most dealers charge a $399 fee for paperwork, processing, etc. Or some amount. I tried to get them to wipe this and simply could not get them to budge on that one.
All that stuff really adds up!
Good luck!
Last edited:
Its called Gap Insurance. I found out on my birthday last year exactly how much that saved my ass. My brand new 2month old Tacoma was totalled. Insurance was only going to pay out 26, and we still owed 34. Gap paid the rest off.
You can get it through your insurance provider, but be wary of their bylaws. I did that in WA state when i bought my diesel, but I didnt know that if I moved out of state (which people in the military frequently do) my gap insurance would become null and void. So I now have no gap insurance on my 08 duramax thanks to moving.
You can get it through your insurance provider, but be wary of their bylaws. I did that in WA state when i bought my diesel, but I didnt know that if I moved out of state (which people in the military frequently do) my gap insurance would become null and void. So I now have no gap insurance on my 08 duramax thanks to moving.
Snooperstyle
Member
I guess if you increase your leverage you need it more, and I am lead to believe my auto policy is very good...so maybe that is why...maybe it has it built in or something...thanks for the correction! By the way, when you roll in all those warranties, maintenance plans, and other stuff, it overlevereges you quite a bit too...so yeah I see why. I am gonna go edit that...
You guys are awesome! Thank you all for the great tips, now i know what to look for... Few more questions though, so my 2011 T4R Limited came out to be 37910.00 w/o fees, dealer tacked on 800 more for delivery (since they didnt have the exact truck i wanted there) putting it to 38710.00 w/o fees... about low 39s w/ fees. Looking at the vehicle inquiry report of my truck there is already a destination charge of 810! so basically paying 1610 for delivery? Am I getting screw'd here? also whats TDA, DEALER HOLDBACK, and WHSL. FINANCIAL RESERVE? All 3 add a lot to 37910. Sorry for so much questions, gotta do my research since dealership that had my truck took down add couple days ago meaning it's on it's way!!!! woohoo! hahaha... pretty stoked! 1st brand new car! =)
Snooperstyle
Member
What options does it have? Sounds like a pretty good price. However, you should only pay for the delivery fee once! Mine was $825. Not sure about the other three things, but I would do some serious questioning about those...they are not on any of my original paperwork. Also, don't even bother getting the carpet mats for $299. Total ripoff. If they are already with the vehicle, tell the dealer to remove them from your pricing. Then, order some Huskies. They cover the floor far better and are more custom anyways. They will run you a third of the cost of the carpet mats. Same thing with Toyoguard...total ripoff.
Snooperstyle
Member
Heck, my carpet mats are sitting in my attic right now. I will sell them to you for a great price if that is what you want.
Nope, did not sign anything yet... they said we'll do that when truck arrives. just a price, ok, and 500 down (which will be taken off price) to get it here. It's a basic t4r limited (no nav, basic cargo) special color (the pearl rocks!) 176, cargo cross bars 110, floor/cargo mat 135, cargo net 34. All the other bull that i mentioned prior adds bout 3300 to total price... there's even a gasolne charge of 10.60 in the total!
philsey
New member
Be interesting to see how many of these items are on the window sticker.
Is your deposit refundable?
Go to Edmunds.com and read about Dealer holdback, TDA, Wholesale Reserve, etc.
TDA is an advertising fee Toyota charges the dealers for doing national campaigns. The delivery fee is $810, and it should be only once. The holdback and reserve are "theoretically" what they dealer makes on the car. if they sold everything else at cost
It is practically impossible to determine the "Exact" invoice price. What one dealer says is invoice won't match with another dealer (because some dealers show TDA, Holdback, etc and some don't)
First, you should have gotten a number of quotes before you agreed to have them ship you the car. Second, generally, 4,500 - 6,000 on MSRP is a GREAT deal. If you try to argue with them about those things, they will give you some song and dance about what invoice really is, etc.
Keep it simple - What is your best price? They say X, subtract that number from MSRP, if it is greater than $4,000, I would say you did just fine.
mbrogz3000
New member
The $250 - $400 'Doc fee' is what a lot of Toyota dealers claim pays for all the admins and overhead-support people that work at the dealership. I'm not sure why they can't allocate this pot of money from the profits of regular sales like any other business, but lots of factors in car sales in general does not and will never make sense. This is one charge that you can't just "cross off", when you go down the list of things they try to add on. If they have a doc fee AND acquisition fee (not sure what this is), then I'd be ready to walk away if at least one of them cannot be removed.
Just try to negotiate to the invoice price or below. Don't let them phrase that your "only" spending $500 to $1000 more than the invoice so that they can make a profit on vehilce they are otherwise just moving off their lot. They are making still profit when they sell at the invoice price!
Just try to negotiate to the invoice price or below. Don't let them phrase that your "only" spending $500 to $1000 more than the invoice so that they can make a profit on vehilce they are otherwise just moving off their lot. They are making still profit when they sell at the invoice price!