Some more issues (hooray...)

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So Posted about my Knock Sensor in the past. Finally ordered the parts and that should be fixed within the next month or so.

Today, went out for about a 25 minute drive, everything was fine until I pulled into a drive thru to pick something up for my sister. She started to shudder periodically when idol, and then died. Got her started again, got out of the drive thru, drove about a mile, and she completely overheated. Waited, threw some coolant in (was completely dry) and limped her home.

Ran the codes when I got home. Three popped - EVAP leak & bad knock sensor (Those have been there and have been for a few months now) and a new one for a bad coolant temp sensor (ECT). Ordered the part and should be replacing it tomorrow, hoping it will fix this issue.

Would a bad ECT cause it to continually overheat quickly like this (maybe 10-20 minute drives, this is the first time it's happened, but topped her off with coolant/water mix and did it again after about 10 minutes) or should I be looking for something else? No coolant leaks from the reservoir, lines, or radiator. Only leak appears to be a small amount of a dark liquid almost condensing just under the passenger side of the engine. Do I have something more to worry about than the problems I've listed?
 
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So Posted about my Knock Sensor in the past. Finally ordered the parts and that should be fixed within the next month or so.

Today, went out for about a 25 minute drive, everything was fine until I pulled into a drive thru to pick something up for my sister. She started to shudder periodically when idol, and then died. Got her started again, got out of the drive thru, drove about a mile, and she completely overheated. Waited, threw some coolant in (was completely dry) and limped her home.

Ran the codes when I got home. Three popped - EVAP leak & bad knock sensor (Those have been there and have been for a few months now) and a new one for a bad coolant temp sensor (ECT). Ordered the part and should be replacing it tomorrow, hoping it will fix this issue.

Would a bad ECT cause it to continually overheat quickly like this (maybe 10-20 minute drives, this is the first time it's happened, but topped her off with coolant/water mix and did it again after about 10 minutes) or should I be looking for something else? No coolant leaks from the reservoir, lines, or radiator. Only leak appears to be a small amount of a dark liquid almost condensing just under the passenger side of the engine. Do I have something more to worry about than the problems I've listed?

Yes, something has gone wrong. If you don't see a coolant leak on the outside of the engine, it's on the inside of the engine. Watch your coolant levels for a few days and if it drops with no visible leaks still, I think your head gasket failed.

Also, the ECT sensor code is extremely rare and they do not go bad just for kicks. I think the heat from the engine killed the sensor, not the other way around.
 
Yes, something has gone wrong. If you don't see a coolant leak on the outside of the engine, it's on the inside of the engine. Watch your coolant levels for a few days and if it drops with no visible leaks still, I think your head gasket failed.

Also, the ECT sensor code is extremely rare and they do not go bad just for kicks. I think the heat from the engine killed the sensor, not the other way around.

That's what I was figuring as well, and really not what I wanted to hear. Any idea on what head gasket replacement usually costs on these? And usually when a head gasket is blown, don't you usually throw a misfire code? None of those yet.
 
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Head gasket repair is usually extensive work for a shop, so you're averaging $1,200+. Basic symptoms I know of a blown head gasket is the obvious white smoke from exhaust, losing coolant with no visible leak, and engine overheating.

You said when you overheated and went to refill, it was dry and you're not sure how long it's been like that. That's already concerning, but now after filling her up, you now have air trapped in your system. That could also cause you to overheat so frequent. Definitely keep monitoring your coolant levels, burp the system if possible.
 
That's what I was figuring as well, and really not what I wanted to hear. Any idea on what head gasket replacement usually costs on these? And usually when a head gasket is blown, don't you usually throw a misfire code? None of those yet.

No, you can consume coolant via the engine cylinders in small amounts without throwing a code. Only when the plugs foul will you see the code pop up.

Cost is relative to your local area and labor rates.
 
Head gasket repair is usually extensive work for a shop, so you're averaging $1,200+. Basic symptoms I know of a blown head gasket is the obvious white smoke from exhaust, losing coolant with no visible leak, and engine overheating.

You said when you overheated and went to refill, it was dry and you're not sure how long it's been like that. That's already concerning, but now after filling her up, you now have air trapped in your system. That could also cause you to overheat so frequent. Definitely keep monitoring your coolant levels, burp the system if possible.

I figured it'd be around that. Between this and the knock sensors, might be looking into a new vehicle (unfortunately). I have yet to see white smoke out of the exhausted, and I have yet to go out and check to see if fluid levels have dropped anymore overnight. Will try burping the system today as well.

Hoping for the best but it's looking less and less likely. Thanks guys.
 
I figured it'd be around that. Between this and the knock sensors, might be looking into a new vehicle (unfortunately). I have yet to see white smoke out of the exhausted, and I have yet to go out and check to see if fluid levels have dropped anymore overnight. Will try burping the system today as well.

Hoping for the best but it's looking less and less likely. Thanks guys.

If there's any consolation, a knock sensor repair would be incredibly easy to do along with the head gasket repair. It's literally right there next to the cylinder heads and you just unscrew the knock sensor, screw in new one and plug in new harness.
 
If there's any consolation, a knock sensor repair would be incredibly easy to do along with the head gasket repair. It's literally right there next to the cylinder heads and you just unscrew the knock sensor, screw in new one and plug in new harness.

Haha it actually is some. Those actually came in the mail today (weren't supposed to arrive until June 17-24). Maybe I can knock two birds out with one stone.
Still haven't been able to burp the system (been raining most the day)/install the new ECT (that part isn't in yet). Really leaning towards a slight head gasket failure though, especially with the small oil condensation/drip I found underneath and when I just checked I was EXTREMELY low on oil.
 
Haha it actually is some. Those actually came in the mail today (weren't supposed to arrive until June 17-24). Maybe I can knock two birds out with one stone.
Still haven't been able to burp the system (been raining most the day)/install the new ECT (that part isn't in yet). Really leaning towards a slight head gasket failure though, especially with the small oil condensation/drip I found underneath and when I just checked I was EXTREMELY low on oil.

Yeah I have to agree with you there. I've heard of head gaskets failing externally where oil leaks out, as well as internally where coolant leaks in. These 4Runners with the 5VZ-FE don't often show the oil in coolant symptoms like the older 3VZ-E engines did.
 
engine replacement time...

I had a rod failure a few years back. I looked at costs of rebuilding, local replacement or JDM. Due to the nature of my failure, and to do the job right, heads etc AND the fact I wasn't crazy about taking this job on myself, I decided on a swap. I couldn't find a low mileage engine locally but plenty of JDM engines. I decided to go this route. The swap was a fair bit of work but not overly complicated. If you've got the right tools, you can do it in a weekend. I took my time and did it over 3-4 weeks, replaced all seals and gaskets(not Head gaskets), TB/WP and swapped all parts (the JDM was from a different vehicle). I cleaned and painted it up. Total cost was in the neighborhood of $1500-2000 CDN depending if you want to include tools I bought. After working on GM/Ford/Chrysler over the years, this job was a breeze. I love Toyota Engineering!

If you have space, a few tools and a little mechanical ability, give an engine swap a try. Mine has now been running 3-4 years /40K KM trouble free. Lots of us here have had great success with JDM, but be aware a few haven't. So do as much investigation on the supplier as you can.
 
I am also the happy owner of a JDM replacement engine, which I swapped myself. I had a lot of performance parts to move over too so mine took in the neighborhood of 5 weeks, since it was over the holidays. Mine had roughly 78,000 miles on it so not the lowest mileage unit ever, but it runs really well and I hope to have it for a long time.

I forgot to mention OP, you'll want to confirm it really is the head gasket before ordering all the parts. A leakdown test is the best way, you'll need access to compressed air and a leak down tester. It's a bit tricky to learn the first time on which valve to open when.
 
I had a rod failure a few years back. I looked at costs of rebuilding, local replacement or JDM. Due to the nature of my failure, and to do the job right, heads etc AND the fact I wasn't crazy about taking this job on myself, I decided on a swap. I couldn't find a low mileage engine locally but plenty of JDM engines. I decided to go this route. The swap was a fair bit of work but not overly complicated. If you've got the right tools, you can do it in a weekend. I took my time and did it over 3-4 weeks, replaced all seals and gaskets(not Head gaskets), TB/WP and swapped all parts (the JDM was from a different vehicle). I cleaned and painted it up. Total cost was in the neighborhood of $1500-2000 CDN depending if you want to include tools I bought. After working on GM/Ford/Chrysler over the years, this job was a breeze. I love Toyota Engineering!

If you have space, a few tools and a little mechanical ability, give an engine swap a try. Mine has now been running 3-4 years /40K KM trouble free. Lots of us here have had great success with JDM, but be aware a few haven't. So do as much investigation on the supplier as you can.


Figures the price is around what it would be for me to bring it in and have the head gaskets replaced/knock senors installed. I don't have the room/tools/experience to do a full motor change out, and it's my daily driver. Will have to weigh my options honestly. Sad too, relatively little rust on it (for having lived it's whole life in New England) and the transmission is still smooth as could be.
 
If you going to do the head gaskets price in taking them to a machine shop and have the valves ground and the heads resurfaced I have done 3 5vz-fe this year all of the valves lashes were out of spec. The machine shop I worked with will set lash for 50 per head and a full regrind surface for 350.00 if you give them the seals from your head gasket set. The engines run great after that if you don't do the valve lash you run the risk of a noisy engine that will not perform well I saw a posting a month ago with this problem and if the warpage is out of spec the head work will not hold, I has seen a few 4runner's for sale with recent head gasket jobs but still throw white smoke. So do it right do it once. As for JDM i have one JDM and one head gasket job on 2 2001 the JDM is fine but there are still unknowns the other one I did I know is solid.:driving:
 
There are ways to be certain it is a head gasket issue - may want to explore those prior to ripping the heads off.

That's what I'm hoping to do. I was out of town for a few days, filled it up with oil and coolant before I left. Let her run for about 30 mins today, didn't overheat at idle and no white smoke, which are good signs. Will do more extensive testing when I get back into town again.
 
Anyone have any good videos/etc on how to do a drip down test? I'm not the most mechanically inclined, but will need to weigh my options if it is truly a blow head gasket (prices to repair, replace the engine, or just get a new vehicle).

Thanks
 
Just a quick update. I've decided to sell the 4runner. It pains me to do, I've loved this truck, but I have recently taken a new job about 3 hours away, and am moving out there at the end of next week.
 
Just a quick update. I've decided to sell the 4runner. It pains me to do, I've loved this truck, but I have recently taken a new job about 3 hours away, and am moving out there at the end of next week.

Sorry it didnt work out for you. Did you already post it for sale? Good luck on your new job, hopefully this experience doesnt discourage you from coming back to the 4runner.
 
Sorry it didnt work out for you. Did you already post it for sale? Good luck on your new job, hopefully this experience doesnt discourage you from coming back to the 4runner.

I've posted it for sale already, not getting many bites yet though. Like I said, I absolutely loved the truck and I'm really sad to see it go, and would love to get back into one someday. Actually thinking about staying with toyota & buying an avalon I test drove today.
 

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