Some questions to help make my 4runner mine!

[danw]

Ok so I just bought a 2002 4runner off of my parents long time family friends. It has 164,000 miles on it and is in awesome shape. the only thing wrong with it is there is a little rust starting on the bottom left corner of the rear tailgate. which I am looking to repair or replace the tailgate if i can find one.

As for the help i need...

I would like to lift the truck a little. (I want a 3'' lift). I will be keeping the stock bumpers so I dont need super stiff stuff for extra weight, although I do plan on towing so im not sure what rear coils I should get. I also do not plan on doing much intense off roading. just some dirt roads/logging roads with some not so intense rocky sections. I am looking into getting the Toytec Ultimate Lift Kit w/ diff drop. So my questions about lifting are..


-What shocks and coils should I get for the front?
(I was thinking: ToyTec / Bilstein adjustable front coilovers featuring Bilstein 5100 shocks adjustable from 0 to 3 1/2" front lift [since thats what you have to get] and Red 600 LB Coils)
-What shocks and coil should I get for the rear?
-I was thinking Bilstein 5125 Shocks and OME 891 Coils Med Load - 3inch lift) [i wanted to med load because i plan on towing, but just want to see what others have to say about which coil to use]

-Also I was going to get add a one inch body lift through Toytec w/front diff drop.

-Final question about lift is about control arms. Will I need to replace any control arms to prevent damages and/or extended wear in the long run? or will I be fine with what I have?

And how hard is it to do the lift/body lift/diff drop if you have experience working on cars?

Finally, I am planning on keeping the OEM wheels because I just want the truck to look like what it should look like from factory, but I just want to get some bigger tires. I would like 33'' tires but im not sure whether they will fit without rubbing. Can someone point me in the right direction for what tires I could get? I dont need hardcore mud tires or knobby tires. just something that doesnt wear quickly on road but has some beefier look than the tires that come with the truck.

Sorry for the long post and THANK YOU SO MUCH in advance for any help/guidance!!

 

[danw]

one more thing!

Do I need to buy any extra/other things to have a proper lift done. Do I have to replace bushings or anythings so that I prevent future headaches?

please list anything/everything so that I can figure out whether lifting will be worth it or should I just hold off on the lift.

 

[1985taylor1925]

:scared::deadhorse::llama::crutch::wacko::whoo:
:moon:

 

[danw]

please help and dont just post stupid emoji's

 

[theizzardking]

hey, welcome to forum and glad your stoked about your truck!!!
we've had a few really good members here put time and effort writing a very in depth FAQ on your lift options , this was done to cut down on the number of threads we get asking for basic lift options.

have a read through the forum FAQ and the stickies above it'll save loads of money,time and our sanity.

here's the link for the lift faq
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/66976-3rd-gen-4runner-lift-information-faqs.html

and if you need to search the forum we have a Google bar located in the top right you can use to search the forum with.


with that said, don't be afraid to ask questions or look stupid, it's what we are here for, just make sure you've had a bit of search first before posting up something as there's alot that's been covered here, if not then just ask!

BTW, these threads are useless without pics!!! let's see the new ride man! start a build thread or something!:wave:

edit:chill you kind of deserved that.....

 

[danw]

well this isnt my first time on a forum so i understand there are goons that flip out because the hardos are always like "ever heard of the search!!". i did do some research but everything i found didnt really talk about whether the control arms needed to be replaced or not. its not like i found out about the toytec lift kit from thin air. I also found out that the bilstein shocks are better to get in the long run so thats why i chose that. I just wanted to see what peoples opinions would be about the rear coil stiffness for towing, and for whether i should be replacing other parts to have an effective and proper lift done.

and as for tires, i just suck with tires. thats why i need all the help i can get!!

and some pics of the stock pavement princess..

 

[hrt4me]

extended brake line
adjustable track bar
maybe panhard drop
maybe rear sway bar relocation bracket and/or longer end links
check your CV angles

 

[1985taylor1925]

hey, welcome to forum and glad your stoked about your truck!!!
we've had a few really good members here put time and effort writing a very in depth FAQ on your lift options , this was done to cut down on the number of threads we get asking for basic lift options.

have a read through the forum FAQ and the stickies above it'll save loads of money,time and our sanity.

here's the link for the lift faq
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/66976-3rd-gen-4runner-lift-information-faqs.html

and if you need to search the forum we have a Google bar located in the top right you can use to search the forum with.


with that said, don't be afraid to ask questions or look stupid, it's what we are here for, just make sure you've had a bit of search first before posting up something as there's alot that's been covered here, if not then just ask!

BTW, these threads are useless without pics!!! let's see the new ride man! start a build thread or something!:wave:

edit:chill you kind of deserved that.....

This is what I was just about to post . . . along with a bunch more characters :flypig:

Op it sounds like you know what you want and need. The lift thread will definately answer the majority of your questions.

3" is about all you can safely get out of the front end. You wont need to replace control arms with that. Though I personally would stick with a 2" lift up front. The higher you go the more you will decrease your caster and the front end WILL feel looser as a result. If you are going to run 3" up front, again you dont NEED the aftermarket control arms, but it would be a good idea as they will allow you to correct the caster. But if youre not going to be wheeling it hard, a 2" front lift with a 1" body lift will be enough to clear 33" tires and save you money on the control arms.

For the rear 891s would work great if youre going to be towing. But 890s would probably work fine as well, especially if youre not going to have added weight in the back on a daily basis. 891s will be harsh without any extra weight. The two shocks you mentioned are good choices. I would also suggest OEM fj80 LC Tokicos. Thats what I am running with my 890s and Im happy with them.

 

[1985taylor1925]

Also, I am neither a "goon" or a "hardo" by any stretch. Im a really nice guy with a good sense of humor. I had every intention of offering some help . . . after I posted some silly characters :hug:

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

-What shocks and coils should I get for the front?
(I was thinking: ToyTec / Bilstein adjustable front coilovers featuring Bilstein 5100 shocks adjustable from 0 to 3 1/2" front lift [since thats what you have to get] and Red 600 LB Coils)

One could argue that using a coilover for mild offroad use would be overkill, especially for the price. The adjustability and capability are nice, though. I think a good set of OME coils on a Bilstein 5100 will suit your needs well.

OME 881s, 2.5" lift, can be used with a top out spacer for 3" lift. I'd say this is the coil best for daily driving.
OME 883's, 3" lift, are going to be stiff, but can handle more weight. Some prefer the stiff ride even without extra weight.

-What shocks and coil should I get for the rear?
-I was thinking Bilstein 5125 Shocks and OME 891 Coils Med Load - 3inch lift) [i wanted to med load because i plan on towing, but just want to see what others have to say about which coil to use]

The 891s will be very stiff on the road. I would say the 890s are a better choice, unless you really are going to be doing a lot of towing. I run 891's, I like how stiff they are, but the axle can really rebound pretty hard over speed bumps and stuff.

-Also I was going to get add a one inch body lift through Toytec w/front diff drop.

Your CV's will thank you. The body lift will be some good insurance on rubbing issues.

-Final question about lift is about control arms. Will I need to replace any control arms to prevent damages and/or extended wear in the long run? or will I be fine with what I have?

You should be fine. Most people run stock suspension components with their lifts. You could upgrade, but normal fire road and on road use wouldn't gain much benefit, especially for their cost at around $750/pair.

And how hard is it to do the lift/body lift/diff drop if you have experience working on cars?

Easy. The whole process is relatively straight forward. There are a few write ups online I would study beforehand, but compared to a passenger car, I think it's easy stuff.

Finally, I am planning on keeping the OEM wheels because I just want the truck to look like what it should look like from factory, but I just want to get some bigger tires. I would like 33'' tires but im not sure whether they will fit without rubbing. Can someone point me in the right direction for what tires I could get? I dont need hardcore mud tires or knobby tires. just something that doesnt wear quickly on road but has some beefier look than the tires that come with the truck.

33" is a common size. You can run 285/75/16's and have little to no rubbing. Body lift will definitely help your case. Some common choices:

BF Goodrich All Terrain: 50-60k tread wear life, will get you through most situations without problem
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac: Kind of a newer tire, has only been out for a few years. Most are satisfied with their performance, both in tread life and traction. They're on the knobbier side, but are kind of an All Terrain/Mud terrain combo. Definitely look good.
Bridgestone Revo 2: This tire is a great compromise for daily driving. It's not aggressive like an all terrain, so it's quieter on the road. Good tread wear and definitely better road manners. Will still take on the average trail.

Sorry for the long post and THANK YOU SO MUCH in advance for any help/guidance!!

No reason to apologize, hope it helped!

 

[mcaz5]

extended brake line
adjustable track bar
maybe panhard drop
maybe rear sway bar relocation bracket and/or longer end links
check your CV angles

You don't NEED any of this. Although it may be a good idea to pick up a pan hard drop/trac bar. I think the ultimate kit comes with the panhard drop not 100% sure. I'm running my 890s without any of this.

Oh and welcome to the forum!!

 

[1985taylor1925]

Look at all that good info from these knowledgable people ^

Its a great forum

 

[danw]

extended brake line
adjustable track bar
maybe panhard drop
maybe rear sway bar relocation bracket and/or longer end links
check your CV angles

You don't NEED any of this. Although it may be a good idea to pick up a pan hard drop/trac bar. I think the ultimate kit comes with the panhard drop not 100% sure. I'm running my 890s without any of this.

Oh and welcome to the forum!!

so it this a track bar and panhard drop in one or something??
4Runner - Fully Adjustable Trac/PanHard Bar (1996 to 2002) - $175.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts

 

[mcaz5]

so it this a track bar and panhard drop in one or something??
4Runner - Fully Adjustable Trac/PanHard Bar (1996 to 2002) - $175.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts

The Panhard Bar is adjustable and allows you to adjust the distance of the Panhard bar, obviously. The Panhard drop, is something you weld to the stock Panhard bar that drops it back it it's normal height. This may sound confusing, but if you saw pictures it'd be really easy to understand.

 

[danw]

The Panhard Bar is adjustable and allows you to adjust the distance of the Panhard bar, obviously. The Panhard drop, is something you weld to the stock Panhard bar that drops it back it it's normal height. This may sound confusing, but if you saw pictures it'd be really easy to understand.

if anyone has a clear picture please post

 

[JWaldz]

 

[Singtoe]

if anyone has a clear picture please post

Search

 

[Singtoe]

If you want to make your 4runner yours. Put a UZ in it. Only about a handful of people have done it. It should set you apart from the other 3rd gen 4runners.

 

[JWaldz]

If you want to make your 4runner yours. Put a UZI in it. Only about a handful of people have done it. It should set you apart from the other 3rd gen 4runners.

FIFY! :uzi:





:eyebrows: :croc:

 

[absalom]

Needy OP is needy.

Best budget lift (take out the word "budget" and it still makes sense)- Bilstein 5100's with Toytec springs up front. Land Cruiser springs with Monroe Land Cruiser shocks out back. Do an adjustable pan hard bar, and get the $20 extended sway bar links for your rear, and just D/C your front links when you go wheeling. $150 body lift will take care of the rubbing on 33's, but at that point you'll want to regear for around $1,300.

There, perfect daily driver/decent offroader. Oh and also, replace tie rods, steering bushings, lower ball joints ASAP.