Sonoran Steel System 3 Lift -- Info for y'all

makakio

New member
Hi guys - after fruitless searching here and abroad I had the following exchange with Steve at Sonoran Steel. He agreed to my posting here as an FYI:


MATT ASKS:
Hi Steve - looking at your System 3 kit for my 2001 4Runner 4x4. Had it since new. 160k now. Put Monroes on it at 90k miles and they're crap. Suspension feels beat at this point and as it's the wife's DD (for how long who knows but we'll keep it a loooong time) I'd like refresh with a better suspension, but she doesn't want to go 2+" lifted and we don't wheel.

Does the System 3 add a little lift (ie: Toyota 'long' springs - don't know what your mention of 'springs from Japan ' implies) and eliminate any sag issues? That would be a plus.

And are the Tokiko Trekmasters an upgrade from OEM shocks?

Also, any recommendations at this mileage on replacing known wear bushings (etc) to tighten up and help eliminate bump-induced body jounce?


STEVE REPLIES:
The System 3.0 kit will only lift your specific truck 1”. Barely noticeable, it will be just like every 1999 4WD sold. The 2” number is for a 2WD, not a 4WD.

Sag, they are brand new springs made in Japan , they will act like any stock Toyota spring. They could sag over time as your current springs have, but they are taller though and were made recently. What you are getting is brand new Toyota part.

Yes the trekmaster is a high end version of the stock shock.

To eliminate bump-induced body jounce use this 3.0 kit you will be that 1” taller and it will take more to bottom out. There is also a good chance that when they installed the Monroe shocks some of the top front shocks bushings were discarded and generic Monroe bushings used, if this is the case it makes matters worse. If the stock bushings were discarded you would want to order the units pre-assembled to get the new top plate or source two of them from your local dealer.

(end)
 
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I know money is tight these days but I highly recommend you get a System 1.2.

I like mine, lots of other people have great things to say as well. If you are thinking of lifting it then you should just go all the way to 3", anything less and you will probably spend extra cash down the road upgrading a second time.

:girl:
 
Thanks for the advice Brian - I might build this thing some day and get into wheeling it, but for now as mentioned it's my wife's DD and going 3" (plus the bigger wheels I'd put on it as a result) isn't jiving with her "don't want to climb up and down all day" concern.

Another helpful guy who likes his System 3 suggested also adding air bags (for loads and tow). I don't know anything about them, but if anyone reading through this has some useful info on what they are, pros/cons, cost (etc) I'd be appreciative.
 
I bought the 99 springs and Bilstein shocks all for $650 and did the install myself, why pay extra for the SS 3.0..?

Shocks: Bought Bilstein HD's. Fronts were $73 each, rears $66. After shipping etc = $305.09
Springs: Front and Rear Coil Springs = $343.85 from the Toyota Dealer

$650 Approx...

Sonoran steel sells the 3.0 with the springs but with some cheapo Tokico Trekmaster shocks, then charges $635 so you'd lose money buying his kit anyway. He also charges another $200 for sending them preassembled... so $835 that way.

Tokico Trekmasters sell online for $51 each. Some places even sell them for $40 each ($80/pair). You'd save over $100 vs my Bilstein HD's if you bought the Trekmasters elsewhere.

So, ultimately, if you want to be ripped off, buy the SS 3.0, because it's way too overpriced. Buying the parts separately will be much cheaper. You can literally get the same parts as the SS 3.0 system for at least $150 cheaper than he sells it (with shipping factored in, $300 cheaper than if you bought them preassembled from him). If you want the Bilsteins, they're a little more, but that's personal preference.

SS 3.0 = $635 + $50-$80 shipping est. if bought from Sonoran Steel
Toyota Coils plus Bilsteins = $650 shipped if bought separately
Toyota Coils plus Tokicos (The exact same set up as the SS 3.0) = $530 shipped if bought separately

Your choice :D

I've heard good things about Steve, he's probably a really nice guy, but I am all for saving $$$ where I can.
 
Thanks for the advice and breakdown, Children - I'm sure a lot of DIY folks here (which sounds like just about everyone but me haha) will find value in it and who *doesn't* like to save a buck where appropriate.

I wonder if the prices you're supplying include all the hardware SS adds when pre-assembling for that $200? Or if you would reuse what's existing.

And I suppose you have to look at time and DIY inclination too. One man's 'getting ripped off' is another man's "frees me up to do X, because my time is worth Y". And some folks are confident enough to bolt/unbolt while the thought of fully assembling leaves them cold (uh - that statement kinda resembles me).

One last question: I've read numerous times that the Bil HD / OEM springs is a pretty weak match and the ride gets pretty sharp and stiff (lots of shock for wimpy springs - better to go with a beefier spring for the Bil HDs seems to be the consensus). But I unanimously hear while comfort suffers the control and handling improve dramatically - which makes sense. What's your experience with the Bils *and the longer '99 springs*? I don't know that what I've read refers to this combo.

All good info from you - and much appreciated by me (and no doubt the rest of the folks reading through too). Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the advice and breakdown, Children - I'm sure a lot of DIY folks here (which sounds like just about everyone but me haha) will find value in it and who *doesn't* like to save a buck where appropriate.

I wonder if the prices you're supplying include all the hardware SS adds when pre-assembling for that $200? Or if you would reuse what's existing.

And I suppose you have to look at time and DIY inclination too. One man's 'getting ripped off' is another man's "frees me up to do X, because my time is worth Y". And some folks are confident enough to bolt/unbolt while the thought of fully assembling leaves them cold (uh - that statement kinda resembles me).

One last question: I've read numerous times that the Bil HD / OEM springs is a pretty weak match and the ride gets pretty sharp and stiff (lots of shock for wimpy springs - better to go with a beefier spring for the Bil HDs seems to be the consensus). But I unanimously hear while comfort suffers the control and handling improve dramatically - which makes sense. What's your experience with the Bils *and the longer '99 springs*? I don't know that what I've read refers to this combo.

All good info from you - and much appreciated by me (and no doubt the rest of the folks reading through too). Thanks again.

Don't forget, if you've got a buddy who works at a shop or something, you can still save on the install, too. I do see where you're coming from, though. My time isn't worth much :P

Your question... actually, it's literally the opposite. My old setup was much stiffer. I am actually kind of annoyed with the shocks/springs I have. They let the body roll a LOT more than before, the rear of the truck will hit the rubber cone bumpstop over speedbumps all the time, and it's just overall way too bouncy. I am planning to switch to a higher compression spring and tougher shock, as well as Addco front and rear sway bars with disconnects, because I love handling more than comfort... to an extent. Keep in mind, though, I've got 50 pound subs, a CBI rear bumper, and I drive way too fast. The back springs from Toyota weren't made for that I guess.

I wish it was stiffer, as I don't mind the comfort compared to the handling. Then again, my 4Runner was probably completely different in handling than most other 4Runners. I swear, before the springs and shocks, I had the stiffest stock SUV I've ever been in.

Where I hear the best in handling and stiffness (Great for brake dive!!) is Old Man Emu springs and shocks. Got my OME 890's and now I need fronts.
 

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