spark plug chg - anything I need to know about?

jediwebdude

New member
My 4R just hit 99K miles. Going to change the spark plugs myself (Denso iridiums). Anything special I need to do besides the gapping?

Thanks,
-PJ
 
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you will need some special extensions and knuckles to get at the drivers side plug closest to the firewall. not sure of exact numbers, but I think used a 4" and a 12" + a knuckle to get in there.

Its not that bad, just take your time, you may get frustrated at first, but it works. Without the these tools its impossible.
 
Use OEM Denso's and the originals are good until 120k.

Also, after replacement, don't expect anything to change(idle, mileage, etc etc) as they're incredibly long lasting premium plugs.
 
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It's been about 80K miles since I changed mine last but from what I remember it's pretty straight forward.

I did not use a knuckle, but a long extension is a must. I removed the air box to get at the passenger side one closest to the fire wall. I don't remember having any difficulty with the driver side though.

Anyway, just remember to plug all of your coils back in before firing it up....
 
Every spark-plug for every vehicle I bought in the past 35+ years came pre-gapped. And 95% of the time the gap is perfect. But that other 5%...sometimes something happens in shipping or in QA and the gap is off enough to effect performance and mileage. So I ALWAYS check the gap.
 
Don't forget to put anti-sieze on the threads and dielectric grease on the contact points.

I happen to do this (at least the anit-sieze) but you'll find some people say not to do this. They don't come with anti-sieze from the factory. I felt like I was going to break something when I was backing mine out and I didn't like the feeling so I put some anti-sieze on the new ones.
 
Thanks all. I did get both the anti-seize grease pkt and die-electric grease pkt from O'Reilley Auto.

I also bought a metal gap tool, but it sounds like:

a) I won't need it since the plugs are supposedly pre-gapped
b) according to Atlanta_man, I should tough the metal gap tool to the plug

-PJ
 
I happen to do this (at least the anit-sieze) but you'll find some people say not to do this. They don't come with anti-sieze from the factory. I felt like I was going to break something when I was backing mine out and I didn't like the feeling so I put some anti-sieze on the new ones.

The plugs I recently replaced took quite a bit of force to free them up, enough to bloody my knuckles a few times when they finally broke free. I've also read that it's more important to use anti-seize with aluminum engines.
 
on my recent (1st time for the 4runner) plug change they were not tight at all

one actually had enough blow by going on to change the color of the boot
 

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