Spark Plugs Instillation

Ol'Blue

New member
Alright I know this is going to be funny but:lol:, I bought plugs and wires today for the 4Runner. The driver's side looks pretty easy but the passenger side I was not so sure about:confused:. Someone educate the ignorant here. Are they deep in the head or do I have to take the valve covers off? What is the deal with the 6 banger...
Blue
 
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blue,

There's one 10mm (i think) bolt on top of each coil pack (follow the wires from the driver side if you don't know what they look like). remove the bolt on each of the 3 packs and pull it out. your plugs are in those holes.
 
Take off the air intake tube from the throttle body, back. It's really an easy job once you get that out of the way. Think it took me 45 minutes tops from start to finish.
 
Take off the air intake tube from the throttle body, back. It's really an easy job once you get that out of the way. Think it took me 45 minutes tops from start to finish.

oh yeah remove the air tube haha, forgot that part.

x2 bump n run.... you'll like doing the passenger side more than the driver side. that #6 kinda sucks. not too bad with extensions. just did plugs last weekend on my 99.
 
I took the air box off and got to the coil packs and was like WTF???? Also, I got the wires. Is there only three total? I'm just work on Ford V8's mostly so this thing is new to me. I'll do it in the morning when the motor is cool. Before I broke something I want to run it by you all.

Blue
 
I took the air box off and got to the coil packs and was like WTF???? Also, I got the wires. Is there only three total? I'm just work on Ford V8's mostly so this thing is new to me. I'll do it in the morning when the motor is cool. Before I broke something I want to run it by you all.

Blue

yes there should be only three. each coil pack does the work for two cylinders.

here's the routing diagram:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...k-after-changing-spark-plugs.html#post1347425
 
Be careful with the bolts and coil packs. They don't need a lot of torque to break things off. Also be careful with the wires - first time I did the plugs I somehow broke a wire on the col pack. Finally use anti seize on the new plugs and only torque to the specified settings - I don't remember the torque but wit hour heads you don't just crank anything down until you think it's right..
 
I strongly recommend you get yourself a short length of 3/8" fuel line or similar. Use that to thread the plugs into the head. If the plug cross-threads, the hose will slip and you know to start over. The 'feel' is so much better than trying to thread it in with a socket. You could save yourself a very expensive repair doing it this way.

On #6, loosen the bolt on the engine hanger just enough that you can push it towards the front. Then it's as easy as the rest with the right extensions.

I've done this a few times by now.
 
I just use the old spark plug wire to thread the new plugs in, works like a champ. DO NOT use a socket, it is very easy to mis thread these and then you are Jenna Jameson.
 
Thanks guys for the help and the diagrams. Sure as S$%^ I had 2&4 switched and I knew as soon as I fired it up something was wrong with it. Quick fix though. After that fired right up and smooth. Next is all the o2, air filter, new oil for the whole things and a good greasing. Dose someone have the Factory Guide Line for the 200k Service? I'm less than 150 out.

Blue
 

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