sparkplugs, informative V6 K20HR-U11 vs SK20R11

[rich045]

So I ordered spark plugs at the dealer, what the dealer gave me was part# 90080-91180-DS which were DENSO SK20R11. Cool no prob, I slacked for a few months but eventually I decided to change them yesterday. I get everything ready and I pull one of my plugs out. Looks like they have never been changed but the weird thing is what I pulled out were DENSO K20HR-U11.
Now, I figured different part number, IRIDIUM, that should be it. Well no it not, the SK20R11 are shorter (threaded part) by about 5~7mm, So basically the K20HR-U11 were longer which threw me off. I went online to cross reference and the SK20R11 show that are compatible with our cars but from what I remember, the length of the spark plug is in reference to the head. I've seen people put the SK20R11 into our cars but the spark plug being so short would barely reach the combustion chamber.
Anyways, I went to toyota this morning and exchanged the plugs for the right ones, the part number is 90919-01235 (DENSO K20HR-U11).

I just wanted to make this informative thread and see what other people have to say. BTW i drive a 2007 V6 4Runner sr5 4wd if that matters.

To illustrate what I am trying to say so people can get an idea.
THESE ARE NOT THE ACTUAL SPARKPLUGS, HOWEVER, THE THREAD DIFFERENCE IS THE SAME.

what i took off the car would be the one on the left (K20HR-U11), what the dealer gave me was SK20R11 which are shorter.

 

[CookieRoe]

Our V6s require the "regular" copper plug, so no iridiums. Folks still install the Iridiums and swear by them, but I'll just stick to what the factory calls for. I've also read that the iridiums fowl before they are "due" for replacement which is 100,000 miles. The "regular" plug that Toyota calls for, is to be replaced every 30,000 miles.

As you've seen, changing the plugs on our V6s is pretty easy.

 

[rich045]

Our V6s require the "regular" copper plug, so no iridiums. Folks still install the Iridiums and swear by them, but I'll just stick to what the factory calls for. I've also read that the iridiums fowl before they are "due" for replacement which is 100,000 miles. The "regular" plug that Toyota calls for, is to be replaced every 30,000 miles.

As you've seen, changing the plugs on our V6s is pretty easy.

OK I dont know if you get my point, they could be iridium, copper, made out of titanium, kryptonite, whatevers. What I am trying to get at is that one spark plug is significantly shorter than the other, and I see people using them. a shorter spark plug will not fully enter the combustion chamber.

 

[ZebRuaj]

I posted this in an older spark plug thread.

You need the "H" in the HR plug number, regardless if its copper up to laser iridiums. That dictates the longer plug.

You would've been good if they gave you the SK20HR11. Your dealer exchanged you back with the OEM coppers to replace the wrong iridium plug. Hope they gave you a refund for the price difference.

And I'm pretty sure the engine will start fowling up with the shorter plugs. Be smarter than the parts counter man. Compare new vs. old before installing parts.

 

[CookieRoe]

I just wanted to make this informative thread and see what other people have to say. BTW i drive a 2007 V6 4Runner sr5 4wd if that matters.

I read this part of your post which explains my comment.

OK I dont know if you get my point, they could be iridium, copper, made out of titanium, kryptonite, whatevers. What I am trying to get at is that one spark plug is significantly shorter than the other, and I see people using them. a shorter spark plug will not fully enter the combustion chamber.

After your edit, I see where you are getting at. Good info.

 

[bdubbin]

Looks like they have never been changed but the weird thing is what I pulled out were DENSO K20HR-U11.
Now, I figured different part number, IRIDIUM, that should be it. Well no it not, the SK20R11 are shorter (threaded part) by about 5~7mm, So basically the K20HR-U11 were longer which threw me off.
Anyways, I went to toyota this morning and exchanged the plugs for the right ones, the part number is 90919-01235 (DENSO K20HR-U11).

I just wanted to make this informative thread and see what other people have to say. BTW i drive a 2007 V6 4Runner sr5 4wd if that matters.

what i took off the car would be the one on the left (K20HR-U11), what the dealer gave me was SK20R11 which are shorter.

Thanks for this. I'm changing my plugs for the first time; my dealership did give me the right plugs but I came here to verify.

Also, I thought I'd add this link from denso regarding using anti-seize on the threads:
SPARK PLUG Installation | Basic Knowledge | SPARK PLUG | Automotive Service Parts and Accessories | DENSO Global Website

"If you apply grease or another screw thread lubricant to the threaded part of the plug, you are liable to tighten the plug to an excessive degree, impairing the integrity of the seal, even if you apply no more than the recommended torque. For this reason, do not coat the plug with screw thread lubricant."

The other area people use grease is on the ignition coil plug. I haven't found a definitive answer regarding using dielectric grease on the ignition coil plug... seems like some people use it for theoretical reasons that make sense but I haven't found empirical evidence for it's benefit.

 

[CookieRoe]

Thanks for this. I'm changing my plugs for the first time; my dealership did give me the right plugs but I came here to verify.

Also, I thought I'd add this link from denso regarding using anti-seize on the threads:
SPARK PLUG Installation | Basic Knowledge | SPARK PLUG | Automotive Service Parts and Accessories | DENSO Global Website

"If you apply grease or another screw thread lubricant to the threaded part of the plug, you are liable to tighten the plug to an excessive degree, impairing the integrity of the seal, even if you apply no more than the recommended torque. For this reason, do not coat the plug with screw thread lubricant."

The other area people use grease is on the ignition coil plug. I haven't found a definitive answer regarding using dielectric grease on the ignition coil plug... seems like some people use it for theoretical reasons that make sense but I haven't found empirical evidence for it's benefit.

IMO, too much thought is being put into this. I've changed my plugs several times by now (I use the copper plugs) and I do put anti-seize (little bit) on them. Regarding tightening, I tightened until snug, then an additional 1/4 turn. I do this with my 07 Civic which does require Iridium plugs. Densos in fact. I'm aware of their "warning" on not applying anti-seize but I've also read too many conflicting advice. I err on the side of caution and what I observe. 10 years later maintaining my cars my way, I haven't had any problems.

 

[cali2008]

Thanks for this. I'm changing my plugs for the first time; my dealership did give me the right plugs but I came here to verify.

Also, I thought I'd add this link from denso regarding using anti-seize on the threads:
SPARK PLUG Installation | Basic Knowledge | SPARK PLUG | Automotive Service Parts and Accessories | DENSO Global Website

"If you apply grease or another screw thread lubricant to the threaded part of the plug, you are liable to tighten the plug to an excessive degree, impairing the integrity of the seal, even if you apply no more than the recommended torque. For this reason, do not coat the plug with screw thread lubricant."

The other area people use grease is on the ignition coil plug. I haven't found a definitive answer regarding using dielectric grease on the ignition coil plug... seems like some people use it for theoretical reasons that make sense but I haven't found empirical evidence for it's benefit.

Don't use torque wrench it's not needed.
If you add a tiny amount of antisieze then finger tighten plugs then wrench them a 1/4 turn and your done. On the back of plug box it will also state 1/4 turn.

 

[SocalSam]

Bumping an old thread... My 03 has K20HR-U11. I went to Autozone for replacements and picked up SK20HR11. Doing the first one, the K20 felt like it came out normally. When I tried to install SK20, the plug felt like it never bottomed out. I tried a another SK20 and this one also did not feel like it bottomed out. The original K20 was not in bad shape so I put it back and this one did bottom out. Denso data sheets for both show identical thread pitch and reach.

K20HR-U11

SK20HR11

Not sure why SK20 is not threading correctly. Fortunately, the SK20 went back in no problems and was able to re-torque to 15 lb-ft.