SPC upper control arms... anyone running them?
- Thread starter JLtoTRD
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Whippersnapper02
Senior Member
I ran them before without issues on my Tacoma. I bought them again for the Runner but haven't installed.
DEF4Runner
New member
I bought a pair of these for my 4th gen back in late 2016. My only frustration with these was that the bushings would dry out every 6 months or so, and the (inner) metal sleeve would rub, creating this god awful creaking (dry metal on rubber) noise every time the front suspension flexed. I haven't looked lately, but I heard there's a version of these now with zerks to make lubrication easier than removing the UCA itself...haven't actually seen them.
I suppose the silver lining in this is that after having to re-lubricate them several times I could work those UCAs off of the 4R like a NASCAR crew member...had both off in under 30 minutes.
I just had to time it right so I wasn't out there in sub-zero temps.
I suppose the silver lining in this is that after having to re-lubricate them several times I could work those UCAs off of the 4R like a NASCAR crew member...had both off in under 30 minutes.
I just had to time it right so I wasn't out there in sub-zero temps.
srsrogerissrs
Member
I've run them for about 70,000 miles already. I've only replaced one ball joint due to a leaky boot but haven't had any actual ball joint failures and I appreciate the ease of replacing them. I've never experienced the nut slipping and the bushings are still looking fine. I've heard of people complaining of SPC quality of late but mine have been great, no complaints.
The SPCs with the newer type bushing I put on my 3rd gen (technically Tacoma arms) not that long ago said something about an revised torque spec of 150 ft/lb which is what I use. 03+ 4runner arms is the same spec I believe. I double checked the torque on the nuts after getting it aligned.
From their FAQ:
Models 25455/25460/25465/25470/25480/25485/25490
"Q4: The upper nut on my ball joint came loose. How can I prevent this?
A4: This may occur on arms that have been powder coated or painted, but also
occasionally on trucks with very large tires that are used for rough rock
crawling. We have revised the torque spec on the top nut from 120 lb-ft to 150 to combat this issue. If you feel that you are at risk from having the nut come
loose, you can torque it up to 175 lb-ft. If you have decided to powder coat or
put on another secondary paint, it is recommended that you re-torque the nut
a day or two after the initial alignment, as added coatings tend to compress,
and may affect clamping torque."
From their FAQ:
Models 25455/25460/25465/25470/25480/25485/25490
"Q4: The upper nut on my ball joint came loose. How can I prevent this?
A4: This may occur on arms that have been powder coated or painted, but also
occasionally on trucks with very large tires that are used for rough rock
crawling. We have revised the torque spec on the top nut from 120 lb-ft to 150 to combat this issue. If you feel that you are at risk from having the nut come
loose, you can torque it up to 175 lb-ft. If you have decided to powder coat or
put on another secondary paint, it is recommended that you re-torque the nut
a day or two after the initial alignment, as added coatings tend to compress,
and may affect clamping torque."
I bought a pair of these for my 4th gen back in late 2016. My only frustration with these was that the bushings would dry out every 6 months or so, and the (inner) metal sleeve would rub, creating this god awful creaking (dry metal on rubber) noise every time the front suspension flexed. I haven't looked lately, but I heard there's a version of these now with zerks to make lubrication easier than removing the UCA itself...haven't actually seen them.
I suppose the silver lining in this is that after having to re-lubricate them several times I could work those UCAs off of the 4R like a NASCAR crew member...had both off in under 30 minutes.
The xAxis bushings, they don't come with grease and as far as I know you don't have to grease them they are sealed up and let the arm completely pivot with no bind up. Only thing to grease is the ball joint with legit 3% moly (hassle to find at stores, NAPA was only place I found it).
Last edited:
If you plan to do any off-roading in your truck and aren’t just going for looks, they are freaking JUNK!!!!!!
Chinesium garbage (literally made in ********** CHINA) that I’ve had to replace twice now in the span of less than 30k miles. Bushings developed play on the first set, and now the second set has failing ball joints! This is with greasing them every oil change (6k ish miles).
Getting Aussie made Nolathanes installed after the thanksgiving holiday. Fingers crossed they last at least 50k miles with me using the truck for its intended purpose of exploring off the beaten path!
I find it utterly ridiculous that there are so many crap UCA’s out there. As well as ones that you have to take apart to grease/maintain every other oil change. It’s frickin 2022 and some folks here will kiss the behinds of these companies and give them a pass for their sub-par quality. Or justify the ridiculous need to disassemble your suspension to maintain the stupid UCA’s (in the case of Total Chaos).
Like no. It is entirely possible to engineer a UCA that can hold up to off-road use and doesn’t require more maintenance than pumping grease into a zerk. Companies just get away with selling junk as a side effect of the free market, and likely because there are a lot of people out there who don’t take their lifted runners on anything more than a gravel road.
Rant over.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Look into JBA. Simple design with an easily replaceable ball joint and what seem like great frame side bushings. Takes 30 seconds per side to grease them every oil change. I only have about 5k on mine so far, but so far so good. I can't say I see much negative about them and they are cheaper than the others too at about $500.
