spdt switch for light bar

Stiles97

New member
I am having trouble locating a spdt switch that fits in the dash or center console factory openings. This would be used for a light bar im installing. I want to be able to switch one way and have lights on with ignition or switch the other way and be activated by high beam and the center location be 'off' . Was thinking that maybe a heated seat off/hi/low switch would work but not sure what years had that style of switch. Any help would be appreicaiated.
1997 sr5

Matt
 
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I've never seen anyone do that on here, but for a switch that needs to have 3 functions you're probably not going to find one that fits in the stock cut outs. I'd just find a switch that's smaller than the cut outs and then cut a hole in the panel to fit.
 
If it helps, you're looking for a switch that's 37x20mm. That's roughly 1.5" x .75".

Unfortunately that's not a common size for anything other than OEM automotive, and there aren't a lot of SPDT options out there.

Edit: Based on some of the comments below it looks like those dimensions may be too small. I found them when I was searching this site for aux light switch options, but I haven't personally verified them.
 
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Bust out your wallet cuz these guys got what you need:

https://otrattw.net/V-SERIES-SEALED-ROCKER-SWITCH-BODY-ONLY-NO-ROCKER-V6D2UXXB.html

The spdt switches are the v6d2's. The rest of the options are for diff color LEDs and such. I have several circuits wired the way you wish let me know if you have any questions. I wanted the backlights on mine white and the on indicator light blue. They don't make this color combo but it's really easy to swap out the led bulbs for whatever color combo you

you can also call otrattw, they are helpful as well.
 
I was thinking one of these???
 

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Bust out your wallet cuz these guys got what you need:

https://otrattw.net/V-SERIES-SEALED-ROCKER-SWITCH-BODY-ONLY-NO-ROCKER-V6D2UXXB.html

The spdt switches are the v6d2's. The rest of the options are for diff color LEDs and such. I have several circuits wired the way you wish let me know if you have any questions. I wanted the backlights on mine white and the on indicator light blue. They don't make this color combo but it's really easy to swap out the led bulbs for whatever color combo you

you can also call otrattw, they are helpful as well.

Those deminsions don't look like they'd fit the stock knockouts without cutting. How much trimming did you have to do to get them in?

Contura II - 1.933 by .940 inches
•Contura V - 1.912 by 1.020 inches
•Contura X - 1.910 by .960 inches
 
if it were me id just get an spdt switch from radioshack, drill a hole in the cover piece and be done with it. or use two seperate switches. also didnt know they made cheap latching relays like that.
 
if it were me id just get an spdt switch from radioshack, drill a hole in the cover piece and be done with it. or use two seperate switches. also didnt know they made cheap latching relays like that.

I'd do the same. The latching relays aren't cheap (or extremely common in 12V). I took a quick look on McMaster and the cheapest option was $26 and I'm not sure it was configured right for what he's trying to do here. The prices went up from there. It might actually take two of them to do it right.
 
All Contra V switches fit in the stock locations with very little trimming..

20130605_200126_zps8dc2e950.jpg~original




FWIW, you might want a DPDT switch, but an SPDT would work.

Read HERE
 
Those deminsions don't look like they'd fit the stock knockouts without cutting. How much trimming did you have to do to get them in?

Contura II - 1.933 by .940 inches
•Contura V - 1.912 by 1.020 inches
•Contura X - 1.910 by .960 inches

0 trimming or cutting req'd. For the love of all things good, please put your dremmel away lol. 100% drop in. Those dimensions are for the different style rockers that fit the same carling switch bodies. Lots of people on here are running these, plenty of pics out there. They are not a 100% perfect fit but nobody would ever know. you can trim for a better fit but you don't have to.

Otrattw does their own laser etching too so you can get custom text/graphics. They also make a 3 switch bank that fits perfectly where the bottom 2 switch knockouts are. couple pics of my setup and the switch pinout. the blue doesn't come out well in the photo, its much bluer in person.
 

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0 trimming or cutting req'd. For the love of all things good, please put your dremmel away lol. 100% drop in. Those dimensions are for the different style rockers that fit the same carling switch bodies. .

Ok, good to know. They're a little bulky for my taste, (I like to keep things OEM looking if at all possible) but if you don't have to cut anything at least it's a reversible situation if you decide you don't like them, or remove whatever they're controlling.
 
Ok, good to know. They're a little bulky for my taste, (I like to keep things OEM looking if at all possible) but if you don't have to cut anything at least it's a reversible situation if you decide you don't like them, or remove whatever they're controlling.

Here's a thread showing contura II's , different rockers that fit on the same switch bodies.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/115118-contura-ii-rocker-switches.html

OP do a google image search for 3rd gen 4runner contura switches, then bust out the wallet lol. the V6D2 series is what you want (SPDT on/off/on). let me know if you need help with the lighting options. if you want blue and white like mine, order the one with blue led's and i can mail you the white led's you need. (i had to buy like 50 from amazon but they were super cheap)

heres a diagram, im not the author but its how i wire up my spdt switches. also a chart on the carling switches.
 

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Ok, good to know. They're a little bulky for my taste, (I like to keep things OEM looking if at all possible) but if you don't have to cut anything at least it's a reversible situation if you decide you don't like them, or remove whatever they're controlling.

I'm in the same boat as you. Here's an alternative, what I did:

I wanted a different switch for my light bar than the common ones above since I didn't like the light bleed behind the switch. I ordered another type that ended up too small (BTW it measured 39mm x 21mm and it was too small for the knockouts...) so I trimmed the inside of the knockout with a dremmel tool to accomodate the smaller switch, then put it in place. The knockout worked as a bracket for the switch to fit into. Fits perfect and is 100% removable.
 
All Contra V switches fit in the stock locations with very little trimming..

20130605_200126_zps8dc2e950.jpg~original




FWIW, you might want a DPDT switch, but an SPDT would work.

Read HERE

How do you get it to illuminate? I have mined wired directly from the battery. So the light will work when the key isn't in the ignition. But because it has a constant power sources going to it. If I put the "I think illumination wore" from the prewired light switch harness, it always stays lit. Even with the key off. Any ideas how to illuminate it when I turn the key on ? But keep it so the light it self can work without the key in?
 
I'm in the same boat as you. Here's an alternative, what I did:

I wanted a different switch for my light bar than the common ones above since I didn't like the light bleed behind the switch. I ordered another type that ended up too small (BTW it measured 39mm x 21mm and it was too small for the knockouts...) so I trimmed the inside of the knockout with a dremmel tool to accomodate the smaller switch, then put it in place. The knockout worked as a bracket for the switch to fit into. Fits perfect and is 100% removable.

That's a good idea. Shouldn't be hard to find replacement knock outs at all considering that probably 90% of the trucks shipped with no switches in those locations. :thumb:

I edited my earlier post to reflect the fact that those dimensions I posted are too small so someone doesn't pick up on it and order the wrong thing.
 
How do you get it to illuminate? I have mined wired directly from the battery. So the light will work when the key isn't in the ignition. But because it has a constant power sources going to it. If I put the "I think illumination wore" from the prewired light switch harness, it always stays lit. Even with the key off. Any ideas how to illuminate it when I turn the key on ? But keep it so the light it self can work without the key in?

Bump
 
So I found a Toyota switch ( $15 bucks shipped )that is Spdt. Out of an earlier model with rear heat. Had to switch one wire to a different terminal on the back and I think I'm in business ! Find out tomorrow how well it fits in the opening I have in dash.
 

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