Speed Bleeders.... Who uses them?

[CookieRoe]

Hey Guys,

Found my front calipers frozen, so I decided to do the 5th gen brake upgrade. Of course, this is going to involve bleeding the lines and I don't have a "partner" to help out. I've seen videos and other forums members that use them and love them. If anyone uses them on their rig, how do you like it? Any pointers? Part numbers as well as I can't find which one to purchase.

Thanks!

 

[970mtnrunner]

I used them before winter when i put new calipers on. They are great, and pretty much idiot proof. Just crack them open, pump a few times, and the brakes are rock solid. Probably used about 6oz brake fluid each side to get all the air out.

 

[Bumbo]

I did it the manual way once and had a hard time...

Next time I have to do it I am going to invest in some type of speed bleeded... specifically one that uses shop air and a venturi to creature suction.

 

[CookieRoe]

I used them before winter when i put new calipers on. They are great, and pretty much idiot proof. Just crack them open, pump a few times, and the brakes are rock solid. Probably used about 6oz brake fluid each side to get all the air out.

What kind (make) bleeder did you get?

I did it the manual way once and had a hard time...

Next time I have to do it I am going to invest in some type of speed bleeded... specifically one that uses shop air and a venturi to creature suction.

Sounds like a good idea, but since I do everything myself with no help, I'd rather have something simple to deal with ( no machine to deal with)

Thanks for your input!

 

[riceandpho]

you can always get a vacuum fluid extractor, has alot of usefulness to it. you can do more with that, like how dealers use it to suck out old fluid of all sort. you can invest in a manual pump action, i use the motive product brand, or you can use the pneumatic ones, harbor freight has it, that little small one. or a good name brand one like mityvac. but expect to pay over 100+

 

[Cisco Kid]

I used speed bleeders on my previous 4Runner and they worked really well. From what I could find, the fronts are 10mm x 1.0 (search for SB1010) and the rears are 7mm x 1.0 (SB7100).

You should be able to find a set at your local parts store. Dorman part numbers are 12706 for the front and 12708 for the rear.

 

[Bumbo]

It's not until after looking up the Dorman 12706 part number I figured out what a speed bleeder is.

So I guess I am not using one. I was thinking of an additional tool to help evacuate the lines.

How does this differ from the regular version? Is it just the thread sealant or is there other function as well?

 

[Cisco Kid]

It's not until after looking up the Dorman 12706 part number I figured out what a speed bleeder is.

So I guess I am not using one. I was thinking of an additional tool to help evacuate the lines.

How does this differ from the regular version? Is it just the thread sealant or is there other function as well?

They have built in check valves so that no air gets pulled in when you release the brake pedal during the bleeding process. When you get all the air out, just tighten them down like a standard bleeder.

 

[Bumbo]

They have built in check valves so that no air gets pulled in when you release the brake pedal during the bleeding process. When you get all the air out, just tighten them down like a standard bleeder.

:jaw: If I knew about those, I would have been all over them before bleeding my Centric re-man calipers.
I always say you should know what you don't know... but in practice you have no idea what you don't know. :frusty:

 

[CookieRoe]

you can always get a vacuum fluid extractor, has alot of usefulness to it. you can do more with that, like how dealers use it to suck out old fluid of all sort. you can invest in a manual pump action, i use the motive product brand, or you can use the pneumatic ones, harbor freight has it, that little small one. or a good name brand one like mityvac. but expect to pay over 100+

No doubt a vacuum tool would be useful, but I'm trying to simplify this as much as possible. Having a "speed bleeder" is like have those fumoto valves for the oil drain. I installed one on my DD Civic. I love it!

I used speed bleeders on my previous 4Runner and they worked really well. From what I could find, the fronts are 10mm x 1.0 (search for SB1010) and the rears are 7mm x 1.0 (SB7100).

You should be able to find a set at your local parts store. Dorman part numbers are 12706 for the front and 12708 for the rear.

Thanks! However, I wonder if 5th gen calipers bleeders are the same dimensions. I'm willing to bet they are.

They have built in check valves so that no air gets pulled in when you release the brake pedal during the bleeding process. When you get all the air out, just tighten them down like a standard bleeder.

So how so you "know" all the air is out? Doing it the old way (bleeding), with a person stepping on the brakes and a second closing/opening the bleeder, the person opening/closing observes air bubbles coming through the clear hose that one can attach to the end of the bleeder. This is the only sure way to ensure all the air is out on that line. OR do you go by how "hard" the pedal gets?

LIke so:

 

[AuSeeker]

So how so you "know" all the air is out? Doing it the old way (bleeding), with a person stepping on the brakes and a second closing/opening the bleeder,
the person opening/closing observes air bubbles coming through the clear hose that one can attach to the end of the bleeder.
This is the only sure way to ensure all the air is out on that line. OR do you go by how "hard" the pedal gets?

Just pump the brakes several times all the while checking the fluid level so you don't get more air in the system,
do the same for all calipers, then if the brakes feel right your done, if it still feels spongy,
do it again until you get the proper brake pedal feel.
I would also still use the hose (only longer) and catch bottle so you don't have a big mess when you're done.

 

[CookieRoe]

Just pump the brakes several times all the while checking the fluid level so you don't get more air in the system,
do the same for all calipers, then if the brakes feel right your done, if it still feels spongy,
do it again until you get the proper brake pedal feel.
I would also still use the hose and catch bottle so you don't have a big mess when you're done.

Thanks! That's what I thought.

 

[Cisco Kid]

No doubt a vacuum tool would be useful, but I'm trying to simplify this as much as possible. Having a "speed bleeder" is like have those fumoto valves for the oil drain. I installed one on my DD Civic. I love it!



Thanks! However, I wonder if 5th gen calipers bleeders are the same dimensions. I'm willing to bet they are.



So how so you "know" all the air is out? Doing it the old way (bleeding), with a person stepping on the brakes and a second closing/opening the bleeder, the person opening/closing observes air bubbles coming through the clear hose that one can attach to the end of the bleeder. This is the only sure way to ensure all the air is out on that line. OR do you go by how "hard" the pedal gets?

LIke so:

The speed bleeders do fit the 5th gen parts. I had that very setup on my Limited.

If you are trying to bleed the brakes by yourself, it will be a crap shoot at best as to whether all the air is out with the speed bleeders. If you have them open to bleed the brakes, the pedal will never get hard because the fluid goes right through. At that point, the vacuum pump might be the best option just to confirm you are getting fluid only out of the system. With two people to bleed the system, these trucks pretty much do all the work for you. Turn the key to the on position and hit the pedal. The pump on the master cylinder unit will push the fluid right through.

 

[AuSeeker]

The speed bleeders do fit the 5th gen parts. I had that very setup on my Limited.

If you are trying to bleed the brakes by yourself, it will be a crap shoot at best as to whether all the air is out with the speed bleeders.
If you have them open to bleed the brakes, the pedal will never get hard because the fluid goes right through. At that point,
the vacuum pump might be the best option just to confirm you are getting fluid only out of the system.
With two people to bleed the system, these trucks pretty much do all the work for you.
Turn the key to the on position and hit the pedal. The pump on the master cylinder unit will push the fluid right through.

I believe the pump only works on the back brakes/calipers, for the front calipers you may have to still pump the brake pedal and no need to turn on the switch,
but I have been wrong before.

 

[riceandpho]

No doubt a vacuum tool would be useful, but I'm trying to simplify this as much as possible. Having a "speed bleeder" is like have those fumoto valves for the oil drain. I installed one on my DD Civic. I love it!



Thanks! However, I wonder if 5th gen calipers bleeders are the same dimensions. I'm willing to bet they are.



So how so you "know" all the air is out? Doing it the old way (bleeding), with a person stepping on the brakes and a second closing/opening the bleeder, the person opening/closing observes air bubbles coming through the clear hose that one can attach to the end of the bleeder. This is the only sure way to ensure all the air is out on that line. OR do you go by how "hard" the pedal gets?

LIke so:

the vacuum method will be alot faster for the same price, and you dont need to be inside the truck stepping on the pedal until you sucked all old fluid out.

 

[Cisco Kid]

I believe the pump only works on the back brakes/calipers, for the front calipers you may have to still pump the brake pedal and no need to turn on the switch,
but I have been wrong before.

On my 2008 Limited, it worked with all four. You still have to push the pedal but the pump forces the fluid through. I couldn't get fluid to come through at all without the key in the on position. It took me a bit to figure out why. Thank God for the internet!

 

[CookieRoe]

On my 2008 Limited, it worked with all four. You still have to push the pedal but the pump forces the fluid through. I couldn't get fluid to come through at all without the key in the on position. It took me a bit to figure out why. Thank God for the internet!

So, maybe I'm stupid or missing something, so turning the engine on isn't necessary? Just turn the key to the "ACC ON" position only?

 

[Cisco Kid]

So, maybe I'm stupid or missing something, so turning the engine on isn't necessary? Just turn the key to the "ACC ON" position only?

It has to be in the run position to get the pump to work. You do not have to start it.