Spidertrax spacers vs what wheels?

M

m@x

New member
Mods: if I am posting in the wrong spot please move the thread.

Hello everyone,

I wanted to ask about the "proper wheels" that I see a lot of people suggesting on this forum as the "right" alternative to Spidertrax wheel spacers.

As far as I understand the reference is made to rims with a higher offset?

Can you please point me to the right direction? I'd like to know what options I should be looking at, in order to get a similar look as with spidertrax.

Is there any downside using such wheels? Mileage/Rubbing/pemature wear of tires or suspension components? Do they affect wheel hubs in the same way as the spacers do?

Update: 2006 4runner V6 Limited, 4WD, stock for now, but DS 2.5/1.5 are to be installed next weekend.

Thanks,
m@x
 
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m@x said:
Mods: if I am posting in the wrong spot please move the thread.
I wanted to ask about the "proper wheels" that I see a lot of people suggesting on this forum as the "right" alternative to Spidertrax wheel spacers.
As far as I understand the reference is made to rims with a
Can you please point me to the right direction? I'd like to know what options I should be looking at, in order to get a similar look as with spidertrax.
Is there any downside using such wheels? Mileage/Rubbing/pemature wear of tires or suspension components? Do they affect wheel hubs in the same way as the spacers do?

Thanks,
m@x
Click to expand...

You would be looking for lower or negative offset. 0 offset , means the hub face mounts in line with the center line of the rim. 18x9 rim with 0 offset would mean hub is 4.5 inches inside rim. -12 mm offset would mean the hub will mount 12mm closer to the inside of the rim from the original 4.5" centerline. You may still want spacers, maybe not.
You may have rubbing on mud flap and or inner fender well. Will not affect alignment or premature wear. Could cause accelerated wheel bearing failure due to the "leverage" theory.
Only downside I can think of is that in many states wheels offset past the fender wells require additional "fender flares" to be considered legal. This is true here in Maine and the police do enforce this.
 
so how does back spacing work, if the 18x9 wheel has 0 offset, backspacing is 4.5"? and if the same wheel has -12 offset, it has 4" bs?
 
i have 17x8 atx crawls with 0 offset and 4.5" backspacing and I think that gives my runner a good stance without needing spacers.

<a href="http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/hockey2319/media/photo2-1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa415/hockey2319/photo2-1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo photo2-1.jpg"/></a>
 
I have the DS 2.5/1.5 kit with spider trax running 265/65/17 and i think it looks great. I have a few rubbing issues but thats because my retarded shop cant do an alignment.

I believe a 0mm offset is comparable to a 1.37" spacer


Here's mine with the wheel spacers installed.



Mine V stock



Front stance: (bad angle I think)

 
LobstaMobsta said:
You would be looking for lower or negative offset. 0 offset , means the hub face mounts in line with the center line of the rim. 18x9 rim with 0 offset would mean hub is 4.5 inches inside rim. -12 mm offset would mean the hub will mount 12mm closer to the inside of the rim from the original 4.5" centerline. You may still want spacers, maybe not.
You may have rubbing on mud flap and or inner fender well. Will not affect alignment or premature wear. Could cause accelerated wheel bearing failure due to the "leverage" theory.
Only downside I can think of is that in many states wheels offset past the fender wells require additional "fender flares" to be considered legal. This is true here in Maine and the police do enforce this.
Click to expand...

I was looking at the wheels after I posted and then realized myself that the offset should be lower. I just recently learned how the offset works but still not used to distinguishing -/+ offset quickly, without seeing the wheel.. =)

You've mentioned that I would still want spacers. You mean even with with the offset wheels? All I would like to achieve is to compensate for the 2.5"/1.5" lift with Daystar spacers. So -1.0" (-25mm) would be enough. Or is it too much?

The reason I was considering these wheels was because I wanted to avoid the accelerated failure of the wheel bearings. I was thinking that this is the main advantage and difference of the "proper" wheels vs wheel spacers...

Confused now..
 
m@x said:
I was looking at the wheels after I posted and then realized myself that the offset should be lower. I just recently learned how the offset works but still not used to distinguishing -/+ offset quickly, without seeing the wheel.. =)

You've mentioned that I would still want spacers. You mean even with with the offset wheels? All I would like to achieve is to compensate for the 2.5"/1.5" lift with Daystar spacers. So -1.0" (-25mm) would be enough. Or is it too much?

The reason I was considering these wheels was because I wanted to avoid the accelerated failure of the wheel bearings. I was thinking that this is the main advantage and difference of the "proper" wheels vs wheel spacers...

Confused now..
Click to expand...


The stock wheels are +35mm. so you would get +10mm offset to achieve that.


Or you can get the spider trax, save a bunch of money and be happy
 
smc23 said:
i have 17x8 atx crawls with 0 offset and 4.5" backspacing and I think that gives my runner a good stance without needing spacers.
Click to expand...

Looks great smc23! I like it! Thanks for posting! Can you throw in the side view? I'd like to see how your DS2.5/1.5 and these wheels look.
Also, by how much are the wheels standing out in relation to the mud flaps? Do you end up having a lot of scratches on the car body from the rocks from under the wheels?
Thx!

zopperman said:
I have the DS 2.5/1.5 kit with spider trax running 265/65/17 and i think it looks great. I have a few rubbing issues but thats because my retarded shop cant do an alignment.

I believe a 0mm offset is comparable to a 1.37" spacer
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! I didn't know that 1.35" = 0 offset. The pics are great. For how long have you had your spidertrax on?
Thx!
 
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m@x said:
Looks great smc23! I like it! Thanks for posting! Can you throw in the side view? I'd like to see how your DS2.5/1.5 and these wheels look.
Also, by how much are the wheels standing out in relation to the mud flaps? Do you end up having a lot of scratches on the car body from the rocks from under the wheels?
Thx!

heres the side view:
<a href="http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/hockey2319/media/photo23.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa415/hockey2319/photo23.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo photo23.jpg"/></a>

and since most of the tread is still covered by the flap i would assume there would be no need to worry about that but i have yet to take her off road yet so i couldn't tell you for sure
Click to expand...
 
m@x said:
The reason I was considering these wheels was because I wanted to avoid the accelerated failure of the wheel bearings. I was thinking that this is the main advantage and difference of the "proper" wheels vs wheel spacers...

Confused now..
Click to expand...

Basicaly any wheel or spacer that makes the wheel stick out further than the original wheels will make your bearings wear faster....i do not think it would be a big deal on the toyotas because most will see 75-150k miles on a bearing...all domestic vehicles barely make it to 50k without loose bearings
 
LobstaMobsta said:
Basicaly any wheel or spacer that makes the wheel stick out further than the original wheels will make your bearings wear faster....i do not think it would be a big deal on the toyotas because most will see 75-150k miles on a bearing...all domestic vehicles barely make it to 50k without loose bearings
Click to expand...

I was thinking:

Lat's say we have a rim 17"x7.5" and the backspacing of 4.5".
If we replace it with a 17"x9.0" rim with the same backspacing of 4.5", then the inner edge of the wheel would remain in the same place as the previous rim, and therefore there shouldn't be any additional load onto the wheel bearing?

But I guess that applies to straight line driving only, right? Because during the turns the load goes onto outer edges of the wheels and wider wheels would put more stress onto the bearings? Do I understand it correctly?

max
 
smc23 said:
i have 17x8 atx crawls with 0 offset and 4.5" backspacing and I think that gives my runner a good stance without needing spacers.
Click to expand...


You have mentioned you had 17x8 with a 0 offset and 4.5" back spacing.
If you divide 8 by 2 then the 0 offset (middle) should be at 4".
From my understanding the 8" wide wheel will have a 4" backspacing with 0 offset or a 0.5" (12.7mm) offset with a 4.5" backspacing?

Could you please double check your setup?
Thx!

max
 
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m@x said:
You have mentioned you had 17x8 with a 0 offset and 4.5" back spacing.
If you divide 8 by 2 then the 0 offset (middle) should be at 4".
From my understanding the 8" wide wheel will have a 4" backspacing with 0 offset or a 0.5" (12.7mm) offset with a 4.5" backspacing?

Could you please double check your setup?
Thx!

max
Click to expand...

He is correct that the 17x8 with 0 offset has a 4.5" backspace. Here's a good site for reference:

https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
 
m@x said:
I was thinking:

Lat's say we have a rim 17"x7.5" and the backspacing of 4.5".
If we replace it with a 17"x9.0" rim with the same backspacing of 4.5", then the inner edge of the wheel would remain in the same place as the previous rim, and therefore there shouldn't be any additional load onto the wheel bearing?

But I guess that applies to straight line driving only, right? Because during the turns the load goes onto outer edges of the wheels and wider wheels would put more stress onto the bearings? Do I understand it correctly?

max
Click to expand...

It's not about the inner edge it's about the centerline of the wheel and back spacing which will determine force on your bearing. Ideal circumstance would likely be the hub mounting surface to be either on the centerline or slightly + or outboard. When you get wider and further away from the centerline the harder it will be on your riggin!
 
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