Spoiler Install

[Asmara]

There are several threads on installing a spoiler but none with pictures. I decided to take some during my spoiler install my 2004 SR5.

Which spoiler? This thread has some good information and suggestions. I bought mine of eBay from AutoWingandSpoilerKing.

As I mentioned on another thread, the box was damaged but the spoiler arrived in perfect shape. I think the packaging could have been better.

Here are before and after pictures. The quality of the first picture isn't the best but I can't retake it

 

[Asmara]

The install kit. What I didn't notice is that it was missing the 2 x 21"long strip gasket. The other problem is that the grommet is the wrong size (too big) for the hole they tell you to drill (1/4") in step 4 (3) for the LED wires. I ended up leaving it 1/4" and used a rubber grommet I had around. The #3 Unibit was purchased at Harbor Freight for $5. I have never used a unibit before but it is MUCH easier to use when drilling into sheet metal than a regular twist bit. I recommend you get one.

I ended up getting a roll of 3m Automotive Acrylic Plus Attachment Tape 06382 from a friend at a body shop. I did contact the eBay seller who offered to send the missing tape but I already had the holes in the truck and wanted to move forward.

The wire ties and light screws were not used.

 

[Asmara]

I followed the instructions and used the locating strips to mark where I needed to drill the holes.

 

[Asmara]

Next I drilled the holes. The two top holes (bottom when the hatch is open and your working on it) go exactly into the center where there are two plastic hole plugs installed by the factory. Easy.

 

[Asmara]

The inside hole for the lower mount was the problem area.

You have to remove the hatch struts to drill this hole. The instructions indicate that you should drill a 1/2" hole. The problem is that there is another piece of metal between the outer and inner metal of the hatch. The screw hole you drilled outside the vehicle is blocked. You can't get the screw to go where you will need it.

First I drilled a pilot hole (pictured) in the middle of the 1/2 hole to make sure I had the angle right. Then I used a regular twist bit to drill a hole on the piece of metal in the middle. Using a twist bit reams out the 1/2 hole on the inside of the hatch. The included plastic plug will cover the hole but doesn't snap in. I used some silicone to glue it into place. You could probably drill between the two strut mounts but I didn't want to weaken the structure and was worried that there might be a thick piece of metal there. I also had the drill get away from me on the right side which put a nice dimple on the outside of the hatch. Fortunately it was covered by the spoiler.

Pilot hole and installed with plug.

 

[Asmara]

The electrical connecting was easy. Pull off the big rectangular square box on the left side and spice the red wire to the green wire and the black wire to the black wire.

I forced the wire loom into the hatch to the entry point and then let some extra inside the hatch just in case I needed the wire in the future. It tested and worked the first time.

Hope this helps somebody else thinking about taking the plunge. Probably took 4 hours of actual work to do.

 

[ric]

looks good, Id be to scared to try a mod like this on my own, lol looks like you did a great job :guitar3:

 

[borgzman]

Thanks for the Pics!

A body shop installed mine. I had a weak heart when I was holding the drill! I know its not a walk inthe park.. It took them 2 hrs to finish...maybe more than 2hrs, but they only charged me 2. So 4hrs is not bad if you do it the first time. Though those who installed mine are pros, I saw a puddle of sweat in the floor after its done LOL!.

 

[Asmara]

Thanks for the Pics!

A body shop installed mine. I had a weak heart when I was holding the drill! I know its not a walk inthe park.. It took them 2 hrs to finish...maybe more than 2hrs, but they only charged me 2. So 4hrs is not bad if you do it the first time. Though those who installed mine are pros, I saw a puddle of sweat in the floor after its done LOL!.

Two hours is probably correct for a body shop. I had no idea what I was doing and there were no pics online, so I read the directions about 8 times (why I didn't realize the 21" strips were missing I have no idea). The directions are OK but a bit generic. I totally believe the puddle of sweat. Purposefully putting holes in your truck isn't natural. Mine was more like a pool than puddle.

 

[borgzman]

Yes, the direction is generic. This write up would be a big help for 4th Gen 4Runner specific.

Here is also a generic DIY video: YouTube - Car Spoiler Installation on a 2007 Toyota Camry. www.elitespoilers.com

And when your at it, it will probably require more skills because its different in a 4runner,the thickness of the metal alone IMO is times 2. I remember my son said " dad are you kidding? we only have six drill bits! I can sacrifice a month without allowance lets have it installed..ha!ha!
But don't get discourage, as a 4runner owner you have better idea than a bodyshop, because out of 50..only one have experience installing it in a 4runner. I know after they installed mine 2 years ago, they have never done it again...and I have gone to many shops and they backout.
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[Ryan H]

The inside hole for the lower mount was the problem area.

You have to remove the hatch struts to drill this hole. The instructions indicate that you should drill a 1/2" hole. The problem is that there is another piece of metal between the outer and inner metal of the hatch. The screw hole you drilled outside the vehicle is blocked. You can't get the screw to go where you will need it.

First I drilled a pilot hole (pictured) in the middle of the 1/2 hole to make sure I had the angle right. Then I used a regular twist bit to drill a hole on the piece of metal in the middle. Using a twist bit reams out the 1/2 hole on the inside of the hatch. The included plastic plug will cover the hole but doesn't snap in. I used some silicone to glue it into place. You could probably drill between the two strut mounts but I didn't want to weaken the structure and was worried that there might be a thick piece of metal there. I also had the drill get away from me on the right side which put a nice dimple on the outside of the hatch. Fortunately it was covered by the spoiler.

Pilot hole and installed with plug.

I actually bought that same spoiler from them on ebay. I'm having a little trouble understanding the 2 bottom holes. I understand removing the struts and that there is metal in between the outside and inside. But what did you do exactly did you do to the metal that is blocking the holes? You used a 1/2 uni bit on the outside/inside and then used a 1/2 twist bit to drill through the middle?

 

[Asmara]

I actually bought that same spoiler from them on ebay. I'm having a little trouble understanding the 2 bottom holes. I understand removing the struts and that there is metal in between the outside and inside. But what did you do exactly did you do to the metal that is blocking the holes? You used a 1/2 uni bit on the outside/inside and then used a 1/2 twist bit to drill through the middle?

I looked through my old pictures for some clues and I don't have any other than the ones I posted. To the best of my recollection here is what I did.

When you attach the spoiler, you are really only attaching it to the outside layer of sheet metal. The inside hole that you are creating is just so that can access the screws to tighten down the spoiler. The top holes line up straight and easy. The bottom holes could as well, if you wanted to drill into the metal where they shocks mount.

I decided that I didn't want to do that and instead tried to drill the inside hole (really an access hole) a little bit offset.

I probably drilled the outside hole first. Then I used the step bit to drill a 1/2 hole on the inside for access and saw the metal piece blocking me. I drilled a pilot hole into the hidden piece between the outer and inner walls of the door and then finally used a 1/2 twist bit to drill it out so I could get the screw in there.

Hope this helps.

 

[Ryan H]

I looked through my old pictures for some clues and I don't have any other than the ones I posted. To the best of my recollection here is what I did.

When you attach the spoiler, you are really only attaching it to the outside layer of sheet metal. The inside hole that you are creating is just so that can access the screws to tighten down the spoiler. The top holes line up straight and easy. The bottom holes could as well, if you wanted to drill into the metal where they shocks mount.

I decided that I didn't want to do that and instead tried to drill the inside hole (really an access hole) a little bit offset.

I probably drilled the outside hole first. Then I used the step bit to drill a 1/2 hole on the inside for access and saw the metal piece blocking me. I drilled a pilot hole into the hidden piece between the outer and inner walls of the door and then finally used a 1/2 twist bit to drill it out so I could get the screw in there.

Hope this helps.

Just finished installing it the other day! Thank you for this write-up bc it was a life saver!

 

[JustSomeName]

The electrical connecting was easy. Pull off the big rectangular square box on the left side and spice the red wire to the green wire and the black wire to the black wire.

I forced the wire loom into the hatch to the entry point and then let some extra inside the hatch just in case I needed the wire in the future. It tested and worked the first time.

Hope this helps somebody else thinking about taking the plunge. Probably took 4 hours of actual work to do.

Hi, I just got my spoiler installed and havent had a chance to do the wiring yet, what do you mean the big rectangular box on the left side? Im not sure what you're referring to. Theres a black hose in the middle of hte lift gate, im assuming this is where the wires for the top brake light is placed, is this where im supposed to tap the wires to?

 

[Asmara]

Hi, I just got my spoiler installed and havent had a chance to do the wiring yet, what do you mean the big rectangular box on the left side? Im not sure what you're referring to. Theres a black hose in the middle of hte lift gate, im assuming this is where the wires for the top brake light is placed, is this where im supposed to tap the wires to?

It has been a long time but I think I was actually referring to the oval rubber piece in the picture of that thread. Once you pop that off, you'll see the wires you need to tap into. The colors are off but in the picture you can see the red wire from the spoiler (looks orange on my screen) and the green wire inside the hatch near the oval rubber gasket.

 

[Cominup]

Unibit

The other problem is that the grommet is the wrong size (too big) for the hole they tell you to drill (1/4") in step 4 (3) for the LED wires. I ended up leaving it 1/4" and used a rubber grommet I had around. The #3 Unibit was purchased at Harbor Freight for $5. I have never used a unibit before but it is MUCH easier to use when drilling into sheet metal than a regular twist bit. I recommend you get one.

I just got my spoiler from Wings Direct and I plan to install it myself. You have provided great instructions and I am ready to tackle the project. One problem, I could not find the "unibit" at Harbor Freight... Is that it in the picture? Is it known by any other name? Any chance you can send me a picture of it if it isn't too much trouble?

Thanks again for the great thread...gonna same me some mulah!

 

[Asmara]

I just got my spoiler from Wings Direct and I plan to install it myself. You have provided great instructions and I am ready to tackle the project. One problem, I could not find the "unibit" at Harbor Freight... Is that it in the picture? Is it known by any other name? Any chance you can send me a picture of it if it isn't too much trouble?

Thanks again for the great thread...gonna same me some mulah!

That is it in the picture. The package says "HSS Step Drill." Do an Amazon search for 'unibit' and you'll get a ton of links showing you what they look like but maybe unibit was a brand name for a step drill. Harbor Freight was just the cheapest at the time but I will say the bits are still holding up. I use them for plastic too and they make nice clean holes without the bit being pulled into the object.

 

[Slowgoat]

Thanks for the write up so long ago!


My spoiler install went so smoothly thanks to this post!!!!

I dealt with queenofparts13 on Ebay.

2003 2009 Painted Toyota 4 Runner Factory Rear Wing Spoiler | eBay

It was an easy purchase, and the LED worked by just cutting the old light off and wiring up the LED. No need to leave the old light intact.


Now only the new light illuminates, and it was an easy clean install. The lower mounting holes were higher than in this write up. You don't even have to take the struts off that hold up the rear gate.

Great color match, and it was well packaged. I couldn't have asked for more at $105!!!!

 

[4runnersporty]

Installed my spoiler today

I have studied the spoiler threads and reviewed other members tips and tricks for a while until I finally decided the time was right. I was torn between the port installed style, the one that does not have the "hump" and with the downward-facing brake lamp and the aftermarket 2003-04 style with the brake lamp that faces straight back. In the end I chose the latter. I think the 03-04 style was as close as I could get to a factory look without spending a bunch of money. I have priced factory spoilers from numerous sources and all were beyond my wallet. I am a firm believer in OEM and did not want my spoiler to look aftermarket. Yes my truck is an 05 and should have the humped spoiler which is not available in the aftermarket. It was a choice I made and if anyone asks about it I'll just say its the port installed version, duh lol. Also I think the brake light is more effective if it is facing out instead of down. The install took roughly 2 hours and went without a hitch. I also chose to leave the original CHMSL wired in along with the spoiler LED. I like the really cool glow it gives especially at night. I have to say this forum is pretty awesome and has given me a number of ideas for future mods. I have already planned to do the auto headlamp mod and the parts are in transit as I type this. We followed the OP's method of drilling the hole behind the strut bracket rather than through it and it looks great!

 

[dta1984]

I have studied the spoiler threads and reviewed other members tips and tricks for a while until I finally decided the time was right. I was torn between the port installed style, the one that does not have the "hump" and with the downward-facing brake lamp and the aftermarket 2003-04 style with the brake lamp that faces straight back. In the end I chose the latter. I think the 03-04 style was as close as I could get to a factory look without spending a bunch of money. I have priced factory spoilers from numerous sources and all were beyond my wallet. I am a firm believer in OEM and did not want my spoiler to look aftermarket. Yes my truck is an 05 and should have the humped spoiler which is not available in the aftermarket. It was a choice I made and if anyone asks about it I'll just say its the port installed version, duh lol. Also I think the brake light is more effective if it is facing out instead of down. The install took roughly 2 hours and went without a hitch. I also chose to leave the original CHMSL wired in along with the spoiler LED. I like the really cool glow it gives especially at night. I have to say this forum is pretty awesome and has given me a number of ideas for future mods. I have already planned to do the auto headlamp mod and the parts are in transit as I type this. We followed the OP's method of drilling the hole behind the strut bracket rather than through it and it looks great!

Where did you purchase your spoiler from?