Spun a bearing at 175,000 miles

Bigmd

New member
Ughh worst possible news I got today. Brought truck in after I had vc gaskets done. Oil light on at idle and motor making noise at start up. I was convinced something related to my powder coated valve covers. I had to clean dried oil from baffles before I put them on. Thought maybe since I saw some grit in the oil filler neck that was it. My mechanic took off oil pan and saw the bearings were burnt up and one completely toasted. He told me there were particles of bearings in oil. I still think its related to valve covers but he said just a coincidence. The thing ran so good. Never had any problems. So now I just purchased JDM motor for 995.00 shipped and 1500 for labor. This sucks. Anyone else have this happen or hear of it.?
 
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Shitty man, sorry to hear it.

In 175k miles, there is so many things that could have led up to this. Maintenance, driving habit's, air filter cleanliness (maintenance again), you get the idea. Not like you had just replaced an engine and it failed. Take it as a lesson to keep work area's and parts exceptionally clean when opening up your engine to contaminants and move on.
 
Rarely but yes. A myriad of factors could have contributed to the spun bearing.

I take it you aren't the original owner.
 
Hey guys thx for replies. I'm second owner and bought with 152000. Previous owner did great maintence . Was able to register on Toyota and see the service history . I do oil every 4-5000 miles. Changed filter . I'm convinced something from Vc baffle got in there. Oh well live and learn.
 
When you keep driving a vehicle with low oil pressure, that is the inevitable outcome. When the oil pressure light comes on, shut it down or prepare to pay.
 
Also the mileage interval 4000-5000 miles is too much. I do every 2700 to 3000 miles with factory oil filter. Longer it takes to change, more dirt gets accumulated and cycles throughout the engine.
 
I can't see the powder coating causing such but stranger things happen.

I'd love for you to snap a pic or two of the crank if possible. Good luck.
 
Also the mileage interval 4000-5000 miles is too much. I do every 2700 to 3000 miles with factory oil filter. Longer it takes to change, more dirt gets accumulated and cycles throughout the engine.

BS.

That's way overkill. The only people still recommending 3k mile oil change intervals are the oil change places. Modern oils just don't need to be changed that often.

And 2700 miles?! WTF?:llama:
What testing have you done to justify making a recommendation like that?

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations. No one knows more about what your engine needs than the people that engineered, tested, and built it. The fact that these things regularly go 300k miles is proof that they know what they're doing.

The reason this engine failed is that he was driving it with the oil pressure light coming on at idle. It likely had a clogged oil pickup and would have been fine if it had been fixed right away.
 
Also the mileage interval 4000-5000 miles is too much. I do every 2700 to 3000 miles with factory oil filter. Longer it takes to change, more dirt gets accumulated and cycles throughout the engine.

Complete BS. You keep wasting money on oil.
 
The reason I said the VC may have caused it was because I had to clean out dry caked up oil from the vc baffles. I probably didn't get it all. Also my mechanic said the oil pick up was pretty clear and not clogged. But your right I should have just parked it. This is expensive lesson.
 
The reason I said the VC may have caused it was because I had to clean out dry caked up oil from the vc baffles. I probably didn't get it all. Also my mechanic said the oil pick up was pretty clear and not clogged. But your right I should have just parked it. This is expensive lesson.

We've all been there at some point. I blew up a Mazda pick-up once trying to make it to an exit when it overheated. That was the end of it. $1500 down the tubs. :violin:

It's possible the crank bearing was shot, and that caused the low oil pressure, but I would think it would have been sounding pretty rough if that were the case.
 
The reason I said the VC may have caused it was because I had to clean out dry caked up oil from the vc baffles. I probably didn't get it all. Also my mechanic said the oil pick up was pretty clear and not clogged. But your right I should have just parked it. This is expensive lesson.

Have to walk before you swim. Expensive lesson but lots of us have gone through this stuff.

I blew my first Mitsu 4g63T because my oil line for my oil pressure gauge was kinked at the sensor (i installed). After some time the small line broke and all my oil drained when I was on the highway, 2am with music full blast. I see my temp gauge pegged, oil pressure gone and once I pulled over a super loud clack clack clack. I was still rolling and motor died when I hit the clutch, dropped it to roll start and car locked up. I welded #1 rod to the crank.
 
Have to walk before you swim. Expensive lesson but lots of us have gone through this stuff.

I blew my first Mitsu 4g63T because my oil line for my oil pressure gauge was kinked at the sensor (i installed). After some time the small line broke and all my oil drained when I was on the highway, 2am with music full blast. I see my temp gauge pegged, oil pressure gone and once I pulled over a super loud clack clack clack. I was still rolling and motor died when I hit the clutch, dropped it to roll start and car locked up. I welded #1 rod to the crank.

I had similar happen in regard to the line on an oil pressure gauge. Mine was chafing under the dash against my clutch pedal. One day going to work, my pants got hot, with oil :reddance: That shitty nylon line they give you with gauges is a joke. It's expensive, but the SS braided lines for every mechanical gauge in my cars from now on.

As far as living and learning, I started building my first Mustang when I was 16 with ZERO mechanical experience or guidance. Went from learning how to change oil and air filter, to swapping heads and intake manifolds on a 302 in 6 months. Only way to get better is to teach yourself, but sometimes your gonna be a shitty teacher. Nobody better to learn from then yourself :)
 
I had similar happen in regard to the line on an oil pressure gauge. Mine was chafing under the dash against my clutch pedal. One day going to work, my pants got hot, with oil :reddance: That shitty nylon line they give you with gauges is a joke. It's expensive, but the SS braided lines for every mechanical gauge in my cars from now on.

As far as living and learning, I started building my first Mustang when I was 16 with ZERO mechanical experience or guidance. Went from learning how to change oil and air filter, to swapping heads and intake manifolds on a 302 in 6 months. Only way to get better is to teach yourself, but sometimes your gonna be a shitty teacher. Nobody better to learn from then yourself :)

We learned the same way but I did it with DSM's. Cant beat an AWD turbo on the street. Started because I wanted to go fast but had no money to pay people to do it. Started with turbo swaps, to heads, cams, motors, clutches, trans with a few years. Then I got into full EMS tuning just from reading online.

Burnt up a head/valves tuning without a WBO2 and going off just the knock sensor. Never did that again. 16 years old with an SAFC fuel controller is dangerous.
 
Went to the shop today. My guy told me most likely as soon as light came on bearing was already screwed. Good news is motor at shop already and swapping has commenced. Perfect time to put my rebuilt starter and alternator on.
 
Sorry, I'm still really confused in this thread about the relationship between the valve cover and low oil pressure.

Wouldn't low oil pressure be a bad oil pump, a bad oil filter, or pick-up screen as [MENTION=116745]jeremyc74[/MENTION] alluded to, etc?
 
Sorry, I'm still really confused in this thread about the relationship between the valve cover and low oil pressure.

Wouldn't low oil pressure be a bad oil pump, a bad oil filter, or pick-up screen as [MENTION=116745]jeremyc74[/MENTION] alluded to, etc?

Those things could have failed if he got a lot of debris in the motor when cleaning the valve covers. It could all be coincidence.
 
I was just saying I thought some of the dried up oil in vc baffle could have made way into motor causing he damage. Just my theory. Doesn't matter now anyway.
 
We learned the same way but I did it with DSM's. Cant beat an AWD turbo on the street. Started because I wanted to go fast but had no money to pay people to do it. Started with turbo swaps, to heads, cams, motors, clutches, trans with a few years. Then I got into full EMS tuning just from reading online.

Burnt up a head/valves tuning without a WBO2 and going off just the knock sensor. Never did that again. 16 years old with an SAFC fuel controller is dangerous.

Nice, different avenue then me, but I respect anything built right that moves out. Something about it has always been more appealing then 4x4's to me, obviously I like both or I wouldn't be here.

AWD is a blast for sure, I had a 2011 STI (first year back to sedan) for a bit. Didn't build it much, made 340/360 with some bolt-ons and a tune. However, it was a BLAST all the time, especially in the snow.

Built a lot of Ford crap, a few foxbodies, had two 03/04 Cobra's, had two 2011 5.0 Coyote based cars, 69 Camaro I'm restoring which will be a built LS7/Procharger setup, ect.

OP; Glad to hear it's progressing. Sound's like your being smart and addressing some additional items while it's convenient.
 
I was just saying I thought some of the dried up oil in vc baffle could have made way into motor causing he damage. Just my theory. Doesn't matter now anyway.

No right, I realize it doesn't matter now, I just want to be aware of what damage can happen while doing VC's next time.

You definitely have to seal off the holes so nothing can fall into the intake; part of the VC job.
 

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