Stalling while idling 2000 TR4

[ttp]

Recently I changed the spark plugs on my TR4 which had 120000 miles on it. That went smooth: No problems. And made a nice difference.

However after about 2 weeks I noticed that it start stalling, when in gear (AT) and mostly at a stop light.

Since then I have cleaned the MAS sensor, cleaned the throttle body (3 times) replaced the throttle control valve and again removed the throttle body and cleaned the air idle control valve. I didn't dissemble it but I used a good half can of cleaner and really washed out the inside. I have also checked and rechecked all the vacuum lines and they are not brittle and do not appear to be cracked.

The net affect is I think it's getting worst: not better! At times I have to throw it in neutral at traffic lights or use two feet to keep it running. When not in gear it idles fine (no load).

I keep looking for more ideas on what to do. Replacing the air idle control valve is next but cleaning it sure didn't help it or change anything.

Looking for help.

TTP

 

[xdriver]

Any luck with this? My friends car is having the same issue and we are trying to

figure it out. I just read a thread about a 1999 that had brittle hoses going to or from, i cant remember which, the EVAP canister. Have you checked those hoses?

We don't get any codes on the 2000 we are looking at.

 

[004Gunner]

Recently I changed the spark plugs. . .

What brand?

 

[buzzzam]

I was having the same issues where it would stall on me at red lights or backing out of the driveway. I replaced plugs and wires, cleaned maf sensor and intake valve, and none helped the problem. Finally through a code for TPS sensor, changed it and haven't had the problem since. I have a 2000 sr5.

 

[ttp]

Stalling updates

I put the top of the line NKG plugs in it. That went easy and it ran fine for a week or two.

I have replaced the throttle position sensor and it made no difference what so ever.

When I cleaned the air control valve I thought I had the problem. It was dirty and required a lot of scrubbing. I didn't open it up due the sealed screws and gaskets. If I have to do that I'll just replace it. There are about $90 on ebay. Cheapest place I could fine one.

This afternoon I'll check the vacuum lines again, BUT they are not brittle at all and from a previous look I haven't seen any cracks.

Thanks,
TTP

 

[ttp]

Update on stalling

I tried the propane tank trick today looking for a vacuum leak and that produced nothing. Also pulled the pcv valve again, checked for blockage and vacuum and still no results. Net effect today, I didn't solve anything.

In frustration I tightened the throttle cable a bit more than I should which made it act a bit like a idle speed adjustment. RPM's are bit higher but it hasn't stalled for a day or two. NOT a fix but a bit of a circumvention!

Guess I'll order up the air control valve.

Any one got some other thoughts??

TTP

 

[cfranck1]

Did you check the Idle Air Control valve electronically??
You might want to check it out that way before you just go buy one.

Here are 2 ways to check it.
One on the car and one off the car.

 

[brian2sun]

When you clean the TB without taking the IAC off, you're effectively dirtying the IAC. I would take it apart and clean it up and test it before you buy a new one (like cfrank1 said). The labor is the same either way so I say why not try to save $90. Also beware of cheap ebay parts. Some things I will only go OEM and the IAC is one of them. Also, are the NGKs plugs you got dual electrode? My truck rejects and burns up standard plugs.

 

[ttp]

Update

When I replaced the plugs I researched the forums and then selected the recommended NKG's and they were identical to the ones that I took out which last 120k miles.

Also I took the air control valve off the throttle body and really did wash it out good. I just didn't open up the valve. Mainly because I was home alone with one car and didn't have the sealant I would need. Anyhow I opened up the valve with a toothpick an flushed it out every way I could. I was really surprised that it didn't fix sh*t.

I'll check the valve as suggested and if it meters out OK I'll then take it off again, clean it again while disassembled and reseal it.

Thanks for the input.

TTP

 

[ttp]

Latest update

Latest update to a sad story.

I pulled the air control valve, disassembled it, clean it and cleaned it. It really was dirtier than I expected and the valve as I would spin it was gritty feeling. So I sprayed it with oil (WD-40) and carb cleaner until I thought it was ok. Reinstalled and it didn't seem any better so I order a new valve and was going to install it. However after a few days it really did seem better. BUT..

Driving home the other day I noticed a strange noise, so I opened the hood and noticed the belts were off. However the engine ran perfectly other then no PS, PB and NO alternator. Turned off everything electrical and actually drove it some 15 miles to my garage. Old fashion 1950 steering and braking!

Well the pulley came off the crankshaft. Currently in the shop and it may be on it's last days. The bolt was left loose at this shop a year ago and the pulley started sliding until the key came out and then it started spinning until it fell off. Well the pulley is shot and the crank may be shot. The long of it is I may never install that vale.

TTP

 

[Drtomcat]

Hey, I was reading that PDF for checking the IAC electronically and the only thing I didn't get was when it referenced an SST... Any help on what that might be?

 

[4Reak Show]

Special Service Tool I believe