Started changing cv axel today need help...
- Thread starter 541joseph
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88yota
New member
Pb blaster, ball joint seperator, and hammer. Spray it and let it sit for a little while then hammer the seperator in between the bj and lower control arm. Another way is to use a wheel puller to add tension to the bj and then tap the side of the control arm and it will pop loose. Hope this helps
lightfighter
New member
What year is the truck, on a 94 there are 4 bolts that fix the ball joint to te lower arm. No need to break the joint if you don't need a new one.
541joseph
New member
It's a 93 and I have pulled the 4bolts out and can't get it to move still. That's how I bent the crow bar. I'm at a loss I'm going to try and get the ball joint out without breaking it in the morning and then I have to do the other side. Oh and the best part of all this is that I broke my 17mm impact socket(fml) and don't have the money to replace it currently and I crushed my pinky finger. Ohhh what fun this is..
lightfighter
New member
How big is your hammer? And do you have a good steel drift punch to really pop the side of the part that the 4 bolts came out of? Or an air hammer(meaning an air chisel with a blunt tip.
Failing that, heat?
Failing that, heat?
lightfighter
New member
I quit Midas in 1997, but I'm 100% sure I never messed with a torsion bar to do cv's. I believe that would just be an opportunity for more to go wrong on a rig that is probably rusted together.
Beer, sleep, hammer. That'd be my bet.
92-SR5
New member
Torsion bars have nothing to do with changing a CV out. How come you are trying to remove the ball joint? You don't need to take it apart to change the CV either. I replaced them on toyotas before static height. Have you taken the hub apart to get the bolt and/or c-clip off the end of the splined section?
KidVermicious
New member
For future reference, there's two ways to make that job very easy. My favorite is to drive all the studs out of the halfshafts on the diff and replace them with bolts, or at least grind down the splines so that they pop right out. That lets you slip inside of the CV off the halfshaft and it pulls right out. The other way, and what you should do now, is unbolt the UPPER ball joint from the control arm. Shim the bump stop first so the torsion bar doesn't push the upper control arm too low, then let the spindle and lower control arm fall down and away from the truck, and that will give you the clearance you need to get the tip of the CV out of the spindle.
I would plan on replacing that ball joint that you've been cranking on.
I would plan on replacing that ball joint that you've been cranking on.
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541joseph
New member
I haven't been hitting or wrenching on the ball joints yet. And I've tried getting the upper control arm off but the torsion bar is pushing down to the point where I can't pry it up and get the spindle out from under it. And I've pulled one of the studs out planning on getting the rest out today.
KidVermicious
New member
Right. Put a jack under the spindle and stuff the suspension, then shim with a piece of 1x4 or something between the upper control arm and the bumpstop, to hold it up.
lightfighter
New member
so, this thread was the nudge i needed to replace the bootless passenger side shaft on mine. Pulling the top ball joint was in fact bunches easier.
i trashed my swaybar too. the rubber bits were nearly gone, and it seems to work almost as well laying ovr there in the junk pile as it did on the truck.:shrug:
i trashed my swaybar too. the rubber bits were nearly gone, and it seems to work almost as well laying ovr there in the junk pile as it did on the truck.:shrug:
