Starter Fuse / Relay

takumi

New member
I posted in another thread a few weeks ago about this problem...

I have a 1999 4Runner Limited with the 3.4L

About 2 months ago I noticed when I turned the key to start the 4Runner, it wouldn't do anything, not a click, nothing. I turned the key again and it fired right up. This scenario has been happening more frequently now. I'm in Texas and the hotter it gets the more I notice this problem.

I ended up changing the starter, but I still have the same problem.

I would like to change the Starter Relay and redo the negative battery ground cable / replace it or make it better.

How difficult is it to change the Starter Relay and more importantly does anyone have a part number for the Starter Relay so I can order it online?
 
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I posted in another thread a few weeks ago about this problem...



I ended up changing the starter, but I still have the same problem.

I would like to change the Starter Relay and redo the negative battery ground cable / replace it or make it better.

How difficult is it to change the Starter Relay and more importantly does anyone have a part number for the Starter Relay so I can order it online?

Plug and play, but are you sure it's the issue? Test it first.

28300-10020

RELAY | Genuine Toyota | 28300-10020

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/ECHAR191/ECHAR191_0235144903
 
No I'm not sure it's the problem.

I do believe it's an electrical problem. The problem is random, but happens as the day gets hotter. It's really hot here in Texas.

I will start with the basics. I will see if I can find a thread on redoing the negative battery cable.

It could also be the fuse / junction box under the hood.

 
Is this a 5 speed or an auto?

It's possible you've got a neutral safety switch or clutch pedal switch going bad. The starter relay is a possibility, but not all that likely.
 
it's an automatic transmission

Another thing i should have mentioned is that occasionally the power door locks stop working. I press the power door lock button to lock all the doors and I hear it sound like it's locking, but not all of the doors will lock automatically. This makes me think it's an electrical problem. At the very least I should try to find a better way to ground the negative battery cable. I just need to search the forum for replacing the negative battery cable and making it better. This 4Runner has 250,000 miles on it and it has had a few owners. I think a few wires under the hood could be rigged. I like to do things properly.


Is this a 5 speed or an auto?

It's possible you've got a neutral safety switch or clutch pedal switch going bad. The starter relay is a possibility, but not all that likely.
 
it's an automatic transmission

Another thing i should have mentioned is that occasionally the power door locks stop working. I press the power door lock button to lock all the doors and I hear it sound like it's locking, but not all of the doors will lock automatically. This makes me think it's an electrical problem. At the very least I should try to find a better way to ground the negative battery cable. I just need to search the forum for replacing the negative battery cable and making it better. This 4Runner has 250,000 miles on it and it has had a few owners. I think a few wires under the hood could be rigged. I like to do things properly.

Do the locks go down, and then pop back up immediately? That's the proper response when you press the power lock button while the door is open and the key is still in the ignition. That's to prevent you from locking the keys in the car. If it's doing that while the doors are closed, you could have a door switch that's not working properly.

When it won't crank at all, is everything still powered up inside? Is it going dim at all?

You need to do some real troubleshooting here before you just start replacing parts. Do you have access to a multi-meter? If not you should consider picking one up. You can get a basic one for under $30.
 
when i have the start / starter problem where there is nothing when you turn the key, everything else seems to work electronically. the windows go up and down without hesitation. the radio works, all the normal lights on the dash come on like normal when you turn the key.

Do the locks go down, and then pop back up immediately? That's the proper response when you press the power lock button while the door is open and the key is still in the ignition. That's to prevent you from locking the keys in the car. If it's doing that while the doors are closed, you could have a door switch that's not working properly.

When it won't crank at all, is everything still powered up inside? Is it going dim at all?

You need to do some real troubleshooting here before you just start replacing parts. Do you have access to a multi-meter? If not you should consider picking one up. You can get a basic one for under $30.
 
Off the top of my head....

Make sure battery terminals are clean and tight.
Load test the battery.
Check grounds; get a wiring schematic look for factory ground wires and check/clean them all.
 
Well it happens. Recycling the old threads is a good thing. I do hope it's fixed. As 4 years is some time.

However, when people never come back to the thread at state it's fixed. Acquiring minds want to know. ;)

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
Didn't get battery load tested, but it's 7 yrs old. replaced with new. Starter did bench test OK, but bought a new one and replaced it. Did seem like the gear penis lol was sticking out further than the one I pulled out of there... so... leads me to believe that old one wasn't operating correctly. I'm no expert but glad I replaced it. Dang, what a ***** it is not having a vehicle, ya know? Also replaced the starter ignition relay thing. Autozone starter 110, relay 30. O reillys wouild have had to special order both those. GOt my Interstate battery from Fleet Farm 134.
 
Clutch safety.??

Ok, im a bit confused. I called toyota of Dallas and asked for clutch safety switch which in most vehicles is under dash or on clutch pedal. They quoted me $28 but it wasnt in stock. I then called Camelback Totota in AZ and they quoted me $141 and again not in stock. Quite the difference in pricing.i asked person in Az for part . He gave me #84520- 24010. My vehicle is 5 speed 98 4runner. I bypass clutch start a lot but cancel wont start it but cancel light comes on and clutch start no longer works. Last clutch start was all the way to the floor press to start. Any ideas? Thanks
 
Just joined the forum for this reason. Replaced the starter, battery and cleaned the terminals. Still having issues. But it's hit or miss. Sometimes it starts, sometimes it will not, and leaves my wife stranded until I can come mess with it. The steering wheel has had a locking issue for years where you have to turn the wheel back and forth a few times and flip the key around to get it to start. I'm wondering if it's ignition-related. Not sure if it's related but the passenger front and passenger back door locks and power window switch stopped working. Replaced the driver's switched after it went out, too. .
 
I have something similiar, any clue? already replace starter, grounds, i going to replace starter relay and see. tha person who post this issue resolve it? Thanks a lot!
 
I have something similiar, any clue? already replace starter, grounds, i going to replace starter relay and see. tha person who post this issue resolve it? Thanks a lot!

Battery terminals clean and tight.
battery wire to the starter clean and tight at the starter end.
ground wire starter and battery clean and tight.
Wires harness for the starter not corroded in good shape.
Have someone turn the ignition key while you have your hand on the starter. you should be able to feel the plunger move. If it moves then trouble shoot up stream. if it doesn't then it's the starter.
Next time it won't start. use override shift button see if it starts.
Tap on the starter if it starts then it's the starter contacts.
Test the starter relay.
When you turn the key in the ignition. All lights come on the dash, radio headlights wipers etc work.
When the ignition key is in crank position the warning lights dim indicating that the starter is getting energized.
If all that checks out check fuses and look at the starter and ignition circuit wiring layout in the fsm and go from there.
 
Battery terminals clean and tight.
battery wire to the starter clean and tight at the starter end.
ground wire starter and battery clean and tight.
Wires harness for the starter not corroded in good shape.
Have someone turn the ignition key while you have your hand on the starter. you should be able to feel the plunger move. If it moves then trouble shoot up stream. if it doesn't then it's the starter.
Next time it won't start. use override shift button see if it starts.
Tap on the starter if it starts then it's the starter contacts.
Test the starter relay.
When you turn the key in the ignition. All lights come on the dash, radio headlights wipers etc work.
When the ignition key is in crank position the warning lights dim indicating that the starter is getting energized.
If all that checks out check fuses and look at the starter and ignition circuit wiring layout in the fsm and go from there.

thanks a lot for your answer
 

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