Starter problems continue.

[kf4aqo]

Hello everyone -
about a month ago I posted that on cold mornings my 2000, auto, would take multiple key turns to start. When the temps were so low (low for GA anyway) - it'd start on the first try.
I bought this in Sep and here's the run down on the parts I've replaced
September - battery & alternator
Oct - radiator
Dec - starter (12/21/17)
Since the starter replacement it'd start with no problems...until this morning.
Trying to go to church - it turned over slow but started, I let it warm up a little - heater and fan on high - radio flickered and turned off - dash went dim - truck turned off - wouldn't turn over at all. Went to church, so about 90 minutes later I tried to start it - the solenoid clicked like a machine gun but starter didn't catch. Checked the relays, etc. things looked ok - ohm meter read 11.8+ volts at the battery.
What's up with my truck? (school is back in session on Wed 1/3/18 and I'd really like to drive it to work)
I really need some help - thanks.:ybrick:

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Charge the battery or get a jump start and read the battery voltage at the battery posts with engine running. No lights or heater fan and if you don't have 13.8-14.5v in this weather your alternator is bad or your fuse for the charging system in the under hood junction box is blown.

If you have low voltage with engine running keep the black meter lead on the battery and put your red meter lead on the big wire coming out of the alternator. If it's the same as battery voltage it's the alternator. If it's in the range I mentioned put it on the two big wires in the junction box.


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[ridefast]

I agree, put a good charge on the battery and check with a volt meter to see what the alternator is putting out when running

 

[kf4aqo]

Charge the battery or get a jump start and read the battery voltage at the battery posts with engine running. No lights or heater fan and if you don't have 13.8-14.5v in this weather your alternator is bad or your fuse for the charging system in the under hood junction box is blown.

If you have low voltage with engine running keep the black meter lead on the battery and put your red meter lead on the big wire coming out of the alternator. If it's the same as battery voltage it's the alternator. If it's in the range I mentioned put it on the two big wires in the junction box.


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Update - 2.0
jumped the 4runner slow turnover but it started
put voltmeter on battery - about 7 volts
put voltmeter on alternator cables - about 5 volts
during this time the tach quit registering accidentally bumped signal indicator blinker came on - engine turned off
removed alternator - headed up to auto zone they're going to check it out and replace it since I have a lifetime warranty
will provide update - 2.5 when I return and install new alternator
Auto zone tested the "old" alternator - it passed. I told them the mulitmeter readings. They swapped it out. The new one is installed. (I charged the battery while I removed/swapped/installed the alternators.) It fired right up. I must admit, I still uncertain that the problem is solved. I guess time will tell. I did leave the battery charger on. Not going anywhere tonight - Rose Bowl - wanna watch UGA win.
I'll offer update 3.0 tomorrow.

 

[thecole1098]

Yeah that alternator is toast. That's why it would die if you placed any additional load on the battery.

 

[Unner]

What kind of alternator did you replace your OEM one with? The non OEM/Denso parts are garbage in regards to electronics on these trucks. My OEM alternator started to go out at 170k miles. I replaced with a cheap one from Advance Auto. It died completley unexpectedly at 206k miles. It literally died over the course of a 10 mile drive with no warning signs. Lifetime warranty replaced that one for free, which then started to whine at 219k miles.

I went to my local advance auto and explained to them the issues I was having with their cheap brand, and asked if there was anyway I could get a credit towards a Denso one by returning the cheap one. The GM ended up just swapping the cheap one for a Denso one at no cost to me. No issues since then for 25k miles.

Same thing goes for starters on these trucks. Don't put anything aftermarket in there. Either rebuild the original stuff, or replace it with Denso if the original cannot be rebuilt for whatever reason.

 

[kf4aqo]

What kind of alternator did you replace your OEM one with? The non OEM/Denso parts are garbage in regards to electronics on these trucks. My OEM alternator started to go out at 170k miles. I replaced with a cheap one from Advance Auto. It died completley unexpectedly at 206k miles. It literally died over the course of a 10 mile drive with no warning signs. Lifetime warranty replaced that one for free, which then started to whine at 219k miles.

I went to my local advance auto and explained to them the issues I was having with their cheap brand, and asked if there was anyway I could get a credit towards a Denso one by returning the cheap one. The GM ended up just swapping the cheap one for a Denso one at no cost to me. No issues since then for 25k miles.

Same thing goes for starters on these trucks. Don't put anything aftermarket in there. Either rebuild the original stuff, or replace it with Denso if the original cannot be rebuilt for whatever reason.

Thanks for the info - I replaced the starter a couple of week ago with a Denso from Rock Auto. If/when this alternator dies I'll go with a Denso. I'm going to add that info to my 4Runner notes on my phone.

 

[Unner]

Thanks for the info - I replaced the starter a couple of week ago with a Denso from Rock Auto. If/when this alternator dies I'll go with a Denso. I'm going to add that info to my 4Runner notes on my phone.

No problem. Glad you went with a Denso on the starter. The alternator is a lot easier than the starter. The previous owner of my truck replaced the starter with a "ToughOne", which I just replaced with a Denso. The ToughOne was noticeable lower quality than the Denso. It only lasted 4 years and was totally corroded on the inside., while most OEM ones just need new contacts after 15-20 years.