Starter rapidly clicks on crank

T

twa318

Member
So we had the first "cold" morning of the year last week (40 degrees) and the 4runner wouldn't start. The interior lights came on, but when I turned the key the starter would just make a rapid clicking sound and wouldn't turn over. I couldn't get the truck to jump either.

I looked at the sticker on the battery and it was 9 years old! So I went to autozone, swapped out the battery and the truck fired right up HOWEVER now when I start it up there is a rapid "clicking" sound. The 4runner starts right up but the clicking sound is terrible.

My question is, this never happened before the battery died, is it possible that I damaged the starter when I was trying to crank it without enough battery power?
 
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twa318 said:
So we had the first "cold" morning of the year last week (40 degrees) and the 4runner wouldn't start. The interior lights came on, but when I turned the key the starter would just make a rapid clicking sound and wouldn't turn over. I couldn't get the truck to jump either.

I looked at the sticker on the battery and it was 9 years old! So I went to autozone, swapped out the battery and the truck fired right up HOWEVER now when I start it up there is a rapid "clicking" sound. The 4runner starts right up but the clicking sound is terrible.

My question is, this never happened before the battery died, is it possible that I damaged the starter when I was trying to crank it without enough battery power?
Click to expand...

No, you shouldn't have damaged anything. I would recommend making a video of it and posting. The starter may not be releasing like it should.
 
You're getting marginal amperage even from the new battery. Sounds like you had a bad connection that got a bit better when the new battery was installed. Check your cables for corrosion.
 
Well, it could be any of these. Try having a buddy knock the starter for you and see if it cranks if it doesnt crank the first time (explain a little more detail).

but it could be any of these things:

bad neutral safety switch (automatic tranny)
bad clutch safety switch (manual tranny)
bad starter relay
bad starter solenoid
corroded electrical connections in the starting circuit
worn-out part in the starter motor or some other system component
 
It is still the battery. A-Zone batteries are well-proven to be defective. May be 1 out of 10 works.
Cold weather and clicks is the battery.
 
Corrosion on the clamping surfaces of the battery connectors can be thin and invisible. Clean the part the touches the battery post with wire brush, emery cloth, etc.
 
I have a rolling cart that my battery tester sits on. Also on that cart are the battery tools I need including, charger, battery connector expansion pliers, terminal/connector brush-cleaner, battery lifting tool, baking soda with brush and dipping container and a can of battery terminal spray coating

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
MtnT4R said:
quality counts.....so you go to wal mart?



OP, you can have your auto shop test the new battery to make sure its working properly. they usually do it for free.
Click to expand...



I take testing with a grain of salt. I've had two motorcycle batteries go bad and upon testing, they actually tested good! apparently one cell went bad in them and when testing, it shows full charge, tests correct when under load but would not start the bike. Had it happen with a car battery before too.

I'd grab a known good battery from a different vehicle just for the sake of testing and seeing if it does the same thing.
 
MtnT4R said:
quality counts.....so you go to wal mart?



OP, you can have your auto shop test the new battery to make sure its working properly. they usually do it for free.
Click to expand...

There's no basis to these findings. I think it varies based on where you live. They are all produced by Johnson Controls. My findings in the NYC area? Duralast Gold batteries are very good, as are the Walmart Everstart Max, which is also much cheaper. You can get what I've been running in various cars in various sizes. The Costco red label batteries used to be my top pick, but ever since they switched to the Interstate branding, they've turned to shit. They all leak from the terminals within a month after installation. Not just basing off of my experience, but what a few mechanics have told me as well.
 
zoombyu86 said:
I take testing with a grain of salt. I've had two motorcycle batteries go bad and upon testing, they actually tested good! apparently one cell went bad in them and when testing, it shows full charge, tests correct when under load but would not start the bike. Had it happen with a car battery before too.

I'd grab a known good battery from a different vehicle just for the sake of testing and seeing if it does the same thing.
Click to expand...

That's interesting, I've never had that happen. Usually when I have trouble cold starting I swing by Parts City(owned by family friends) and they test, if they say its questionable I just replace it. Not worth pinching pennies and getting stranded somewhere in the winter...


T4R2014 said:
There's no basis to these findings. I think it varies based on where you live. They are all produced by Johnson Controls. My findings in the NYC area? Duralast Gold batteries are very good, as are the Walmart Everstart Max, which is also much cheaper. You can get what I've been running in various cars in various sizes. The Costco red label batteries used to be my top pick, but ever since they switched to the Interstate branding, they've turned to shit. They all leak from the terminals within a month after installation. Not just basing off of my experience, but what a few mechanics have told me as well.
Click to expand...

This is definitely news to me. Had no idea they make batteries? our wal mart is dogsh*t and I wouldn't buy anything auto related from them.

Also just my .02, but I'd much rather support locally owned business than feed the conglomerate.
 
MtnT4R said:
That's interesting, I've never had that happen. Usually when I have trouble cold starting I swing by Parts City(owned by family friends) and they test, if they say its questionable I just replace it. Not worth pinching pennies and getting stranded somewhere in the winter...


Yea it was weird. My bike broke down a few blocks from an interstate shop. So i walked my happy-self and bought a battery that was sitting on their shelf a while and borrowed some tools and it didn't work. Mine you, I watched the guy test the battery when i bought it. took it back and tested it again, tested fine. By this time someone picked me up and I tried it again. Nope, didnt work. Then it dawned on me that it didn't spark when connecting the ground.

Took it back and told him the battery is bad, he tested again. Looked good. I then stuck a screwdriver across the terminals with no spark. He still said it was good because it tested good...I then realized hes an idiot, got my refund and left.
Click to expand...
 
twa318 said:
So we had the first "cold" morning of the year last week (40 degrees) and the 4runner wouldn't start. The interior lights came on, but when I turned the key the starter would just make a rapid clicking sound and wouldn't turn over. I couldn't get the truck to jump either.

I looked at the sticker on the battery and it was 9 years old! So I went to autozone, swapped out the battery and the truck fired right up HOWEVER now when I start it up there is a rapid "clicking" sound. The 4runner starts right up but the clicking sound is terrible.

My question is, this never happened before the battery died, is it possible that I damaged the starter when I was trying to crank it without enough battery power?
Click to expand...

Doubt there was damage to the starter. I had something similar happen and just had to get a new battery. Could also be just coincidence that your starter is failing at the same time. Starters and 4runners dont get along.
 
Walmart Batteries

MtnT4R said:
quality counts.....so you go to wal mart?

OP, you can have your auto shop test the new battery to make sure its working properly. they usually do it for free.
Click to expand...

Walmart batteries have never given me any sort of issues. Also comes with 5-year warranty (3- years full and 2- prorated)

Right now a 24F battery is $93.... hard to beat the price too!
 
nissanh said:
Walmart batteries have never given me any sort of issues. Also comes with 5-year warranty (3- years full and 2- prorated)

Right now a 24F battery is $93.... hard to beat the price too!
Click to expand...

This ^

That warranty is great! Not a problem to report in five years.
 
csp said:
You're getting marginal amperage even from the new battery. Sounds like you had a bad connection that got a bit better when the new battery was installed. Check your cables for corrosion.
Click to expand...

pluton said:
Corrosion on the clamping surfaces of the battery connectors can be thin and invisible. Clean the part the touches the battery post with wire brush, emery cloth, etc.
Click to expand...

I took some time this weekend to thoroughly clean the battery connections with a wire brush and now the clicking sound at startup is gone. There was a surprising amount of white corrosion that came off the connectors.

Thanks for the help everyone
 
Good clean grounds, both at the battery and the different grounding locations (engine, tranny, body ect) is one of the most overlooked causes of general electrical issues.

You can put some di-electric grease on your connectors to help keep them clean from corrosion in the future.

Glad you got it fixed.
 
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