Startup problems

9

98tworunner

New member
I'm having some problems with my 1998 v6 5vz-fe. I've got about 205k miles on her and recently I've had some problems when starting her up for the first time of the day or after sitting for 5+ hours. I've looked at a few of the threads about this issue already and they all seemed to have either been unresolved or turned out to be something I've ruled out.

In order to get my car to start, I generally have to try cranking 2-3 times and give it some gas. I've only tried to start it very cold once, and that took me about 10 tries. I took a video of that instance. I'll post that as a comment as I'm posting on my computer but the video's on my phone so it'll be easier to post from my phone. Anyways, when it does finally crank over there are loud pops and sputters for about 10 seconds until she hits ~1200 RPMs then she purrs from there. Runs fine during normal driving and after the first startup she turns over just fine with no problems.

The battery is fine, I've tested it and it reads 12.5 sitting and 13.6 running. the problem isn't to do with cold though it is worse in the cold. I had trouble getting it to start today in 70 degree weather.

I've changed the coolant temp sensor since it was originally throwing that code when I first noticed this problem. The code has gone away now though.

I have not looked into the starter yet. Wouldn't be too hard of a job for me, but I plan on selling this car asap to get something newer (baby on the way). so I'd prefer not to spend a lot of money troubleshooting.

Anyways, thoughts guys? Doomed HG? Starter going bad? Clogged injectors?

Thanks for your time.
 
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I would recommend changing the fuel filter along with plugs and wires. Maybe pour some seafoam in your gas tank in an attempt to clean fuel injectors. How does it run once you get it started?
 
I was also gonna suggest new fuel filter and seafoam. Sputtering usually means you're not getting something from the air, spark, or fuel mixture. Debris in the fuel filter could be settling after long periods of sitting, but flow fine once running.
Also, maybe check the vacuum hoses and ground wires? Sometimes its the stupid little things that cause problems...
Good luck!
 
98tworunner said:
...

You can hear on some of the cranks the sputtering popping sounds.

https://youtu.be/rPLLBAZDHuY
Click to expand...

Can you tell if the backfiring is coming from the engine or exhaust?

If engine then it's lean. If exhaust then it's too much fuel.

Have you given it a "tune-up" (wires/plugs/IAC-MAF cleaning)?

Any CEL codes or pending ones (pending would show not CEL but show up on a reader)?

Luck. :cowboy:
 
Changed the fuel filter today. Started right up. I'm gonna check back in tomorrow morning because the problem was most pronounced in the cold mornings so I'll know for sure then.
 
Almost sounds like a fuel delivery issue to me.
I'm no mechanic, but essentially, the engine should be 'primed' to start at any time.
If it won't start after a long sit, but starts easily after already running, it sound like it's losing its prime while sitting.
This says fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator to me.
Sputtering could indicate either of these as well.
EFI is a closed high pressure system, so if there were any bad hoses, you'd notice a pretty significant loss of fuel and the accompanying gasoline smell.


Never hurts to change the fuel filter also. Easy to do, costs $20ish, and needs it after 200k regardless.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I have a bit of a sputter problem during cranking right now, happens every 4 or 5 starts where I have to crank for 3-4 seconds and sputters. Runs great once started. I am thinking it is a failing fuel pump, which I have on order.

I have previously done fuel filter, plugs, wires, and all other associated cleaning and never had issues until the past couple weeks...so before I get stranded I will replace the fuel pump and see what happens.

Good luck with yours
 
The toyota fuel pump is notoriously quiet but should prime the fuel system at key on, pre-start.

Try this at next cold start, turn key to ON and wait 5 seconds before you crank it to start.
 
octanejunkie said:
The toyota fuel pump is notoriously quiet but should prime the fuel system at key on, pre-start.

Try this at next cold start, turn key to ON and wait 5 seconds before you crank it to start.
Click to expand...

Interesting that it is so quiet. I tried listening for it, as I had done before on my 94 For Explorer when the wiring to the fuel pump was going bad.

Couldn't hear it on the 4runner, and had times when it fired up right away and times when it still needed extra crank. At this point, $70 for a part that has been working hard for 240k seems like a good project.
 
AntleredRuin said:
Almost sounds like a fuel delivery issue to me.
I'm no mechanic, but essentially, the engine should be 'primed' to start at any time.
If it won't start after a long sit, but starts easily after already running, it sound like it's losing its prime while sitting.
This says fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator to me.
Sputtering could indicate either of these as well.
EFI is a closed high pressure system, so if there were any bad hoses, you'd notice a pretty significant loss of fuel and the accompanying gasoline smell.


Never hurts to change the fuel filter also. Easy to do, costs $20ish, and needs it after 200k regardless.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Tried running from a cold start and had the same issue as before this morning.


Gonna check out my fuel pump next then. And look into the fuel pressure regulator, hadn't heard of that before
 
98tworunner said:
Tried running from a cold start and had the same issue as before this morning.


Gonna check out my fuel pump next then. And look into the fuel pressure regulator, hadn't heard of that before
Click to expand...

I'd do the IAC & MAF cleaning next.

Also, did you do as Octanejunkie suggested, turning ignition On for 5 secs before turning key to crank?

Also when I saw your videos I noticed you would let go of the starter pretty quickly. I couldn't tell but is that because the engine would begin to fire and then quit? Otherwise I'd suggest crank at least 5-7 times before letting off. Mine usally starts on 1-3 cranks but every once in a while 5 (don't like that either).
 
jgue467 said:
I'd do the IAC & MAF cleaning next.

Also, did you do as Octanejunkie suggested, turning ignition On for 5 secs before turning key to crank?

Also when I saw your videos I noticed you would let go of the starter pretty quickly. I couldn't tell but is that because the engine would begin to fire and then quit? Otherwise I'd suggest crank at least 5-7 times before letting off. Mine usally starts on 1-3 cranks but every once in a while 5 (don't like that either).
Click to expand...

I've had fuel pump problems before so I knew bout the priming trick. I usually turn the key over, let it sit for a second, and repeat that a few times to try to prime. edit: makes me wonder why I didn't suspect fuel pump from the get go, maybe the trauma of dropping the tank on a ford focus made me not want to believe it.

once I hear the engine sputter and the RPMs go back to zero I let off the starter.
 
You can also try turning ignition on without starting 2 or 3 times and wait the 5 seconds.

As mentioned above also clean your IAC and MAF. The IAC is at the bottom of the throttle body and collects dirt. Last time I cleaned the IAC on the 97 puppy hauler I sprayed throttle body into the IAC with engine at idle in short spurts. It raised the idle around 300rpm and the ECU had to remap the IAC position.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
mind linking me to a writeup for IAC/MAF cleaning?

edit:nevermind, youtube'd it.

edit2:

It's raining out right now, so I'm gonna do IAC/MAF/throttle body cleaning once it's not raining, and i'll post back here once that's done and I've had a chance to try the cold start again.
 
Last edited:
Not sure what you have read about the IAC cleaning. Be careful if you try to do it in place on the truck. This has caused problems for others.

Best (I believe anyhow) is to remove it from the throttle body and clean it on the bench. At least you can read and make the decision for yourself.
 
I bench cleaned my IAC twice, to no avail, and ended up replacing it with an eBay special that is still holding up well.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
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