Steering Rack Guide Parts Question

[Pelirow]

I've been feeling looseness in my steering I'd like to tighten up and found this thread and decided to give the job a shot:

Steering Rack Guide Replacement

I recently ordered all the parts from Camelback Toyota (free shipping, yay) with the part numbers given in that thread. However, I believe the T4R in that thread is an '01 while mine is a '97. When ordering, I chose the option to give them my VIN number and shortly thereafter got an e-mail from Camelback stating that the guide, spring, and cap parts I requested "do not apply to your vehicle" and gave me these part numbers as the correct parts:

guide: 45504-35010
spring: 90501-26063
cap: 45524-35010

I went ahead and allowed them to change out for the "proper" parts, which was another 25 bucks or so. I got all the parts yesterday and I noticed, compared to the cap in the writeup thread, the cap I got doesn't have the threaded 24mm end for tightening and has a much wider cavity on the other side (where the spring goes) that would presumably make centering the spring a more delicate job.

My question is: would the cap from the yototech forums write up (part No. 45524-37010) work on my '97? Should I send back the cap I got for the cap I originally ordered?

It just seems I'd be able to do a better job with the cap in the writeup in terms of inserting the spring and then tightening and loosening the cap as needed to get the proper position, as opposed to trying to use a wrench on the cap I have.

Advice and suggestions are appreciated! I'm a total noob to working on vehicles, so I'd like to learn everything I can.

 

[Nelsonmd]

I did the exact same thing. You need to use the part number for the 01/02 4runner, not the "right" part for your year. Ignore the warning that the parts won't fit.

The difference that is important is not the torque features (though you may prefer one over the other), but the big difference is the fact that the 01/02 doesn't have the roller in it. I just lived with the "wrong" part, so I didn't really get the advantage of replacing the guide, but I did get a little benefit as the new one has less wear on it so is a bit tighter.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I'd be interested to hear some subjective feedback about this upgrade.

I tried it a few years ago and it basically broke my steering rack. I ended up getting a refurbished rack.

I would like to know if you see a 25%, 50%, 75% ect stiffness in steering.

 

[Nelsonmd]

I'd be interested to hear some subjective feedback about this upgrade.

I tried it a few years ago and it basically broke my steering rack. I ended up getting a refurbished rack.

I would like to know if you see a 25%, 50%, 75% ect stiffness in steering.

How did you break it, over-tightening the guide? I overtightened mine a bit at first, but the steering was really stiff, so I back it off a bit, and after a couple cycles of this I got it feeling good and it has been good since.

 

[Kung]

What he said. Your account above, Brian, is part of the reason I've NOT done the steering rack guide fix, despite having all the parts.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I had the attempted fix done by a local shop I trust. In this instance it didn't work out and they told me that despite trying different levels of tightness something broke inside after the change. I drove it down the street and the steering was all messed up. I ended up getting a new rack for $500. They told before that this type of work was done at own risk type of work and not sanctioned by Toyota. But perhaps they screwed it up.

Kung, if you are considering a new rack anyways then try it. If you won't need a new rack for a few years still then maybe don't do it.

 

[Pelirow]

I did the exact same thing. You need to use the part number for the 01/02 4runner, not the "right" part for your year. Ignore the warning that the parts won't fit.

The difference that is important is not the torque features (though you may prefer one over the other), but the big difference is the fact that the 01/02 doesn't have the roller in it. I just lived with the "wrong" part, so I didn't really get the advantage of replacing the guide, but I did get a little benefit as the new one has less wear on it so is a bit tighter.

Thanks for the info. What's the main issue with having the roller in the guide or not having it in there? Just curious to learn the pros (and any cons).

After reading the posts below yours about breaking the rack, I'd prefer the 01/02 version even more now since I'm much more comfortable that I'll be able to tighten more delicately with the threaded rod connector in a 24mm socket than a wrench on the cap I have. Looks like I'll contact Camelback about this, thanks for the advice.

 

[Pelirow]

I'd be interested to hear some subjective feedback about this upgrade.

I tried it a few years ago and it basically broke my steering rack. I ended up getting a refurbished rack.

Assuming it's the '97 T4R in your sig you're referring to, did you use the '01 guide or the '97 guide?

EDIT: Sorry for the double-post, I thought I merged this with my above post.

 

[rjaudi]

I upgraded my 97 to all the newer parts, cap and guide. Helped my steering out as I could tell the rod was slipping on the guide.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Thanks for the info. What's the main issue with having the roller in the guide or not having it in there? Just curious to learn the pros (and any cons).

After reading the posts below yours about breaking the rack, I'd prefer the 01/02 version even more now since I'm much more comfortable that I'll be able to tighten more delicately with the threaded rod connector in a 24mm socket than a wrench on the cap I have. Looks like I'll contact Camelback about this, thanks for the advice.

The old design is easier to adjust, but the new design is better functionally. The roller in the old design gives an extra joint that can wear, lose tolerance, and get lose. The new design is just straight metal friction surface, so there is nothing in the guide that can loosen up, no joint, no nothing, nothing to wear really.

 

[Pelirow]

The old design is easier to adjust, but the new design is better functionally. The roller in the old design gives an extra joint that can wear, lose tolerance, and get lose. The new design is just straight metal friction surface, so there is nothing in the guide that can loosen up, no joint, no nothing, nothing to wear really.

Thanks for the heads up. After hearing that, I can see how overtightening can mess up the rack, so I'll just try to be careful. Sending the parts back this week. If I break my ride with my new guide, I'll let y'all know.

 

[iowajosh]

It was a very easy project. It killed the one clunk right under my feet. The roller is the part that clunks so get the updated one. I used thicker grease so it felt stiff for a few days but it was cold out.

 

[Kung]

I had the attempted fix done by a local shop I trust. In this instance it didn't work out and they told me that despite trying different levels of tightness something broke inside after the change. I drove it down the street and the steering was all messed up. I ended up getting a new rack for $500. They told before that this type of work was done at own risk type of work and not sanctioned by Toyota. But perhaps they screwed it up.

Kung, if you are considering a new rack anyways then try it. If you won't need a new rack for a few years still then maybe don't do it.

That makes sense; and yeah, the only other thing I'll do is a new rack. It's a 3rd vehicle so even if the steering hoses up, we can get by for a week or so.