Steering Wheel Issue

[Kmurt]

Last week I got a well overdue wheel alignment done. Truck tracks straight and no more steering wheel vibrations.

My issue is that sometimes my steering wheel will be center and then I could hit a bump just right, make a sharp turn, or brake hard and when I go to bring the truck back straight, the steering wheel will be off center.

Even when going straight and this happens, it still tracks straight and doesn't pull or anything. Now what's weird is if I do any of the above again, the steering wheel will go back to being straight. It is random.

I do get a popping noise in the front end usually when I turn to the left going slow in forward and reverse, not sure if these two are related in any way.

Before I call the alignment shop I wanted to see if anybody could point me in the right direction of what it could possibly be?

 

[Endlessblockades]

The popping might be coming from your sway bar end links. I'd make sure they aren't bent or loose. The 2 issues probably aren't related, however.

 

[GhostRing]

Did the popping only happen after the alignment?
I would make sure your OTR jam nuts are actually tightened
and that the ball joint nut is correctly torqued & pinned.
Especially if someone was recently under there fiddling around.

 

[AuSeeker]

Check your intermediate steering shaft to see if it has any play in the u joint/s, also check the rag joint for being worn out.

 

[Kmurt]

Did the popping only happen after the alignment?
I would make sure your OTR jam nuts are actually tightened
and that the ball joint nut is correctly torqued & pinned.
Especially if someone was recently under there fiddling around.

The popping noise was before the alignment. I guess it could be sway bar end link related like [MENTION=373697]Endlessblockades[/MENTION] said. Only happens when turning slow.

I'll get under there to check to make sure everything is tight.

 

[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=118736]Kmurt[/MENTION], I've had the pop turning been swaybar links loose at frame aged/worn bushings.
Not going to affect return to center Rack bushings will be my first spot to lay eyes on.
Center rack bushing controls what you describe look for shiny clean metal on rack body
at saddle clamp indicates side movement left to right.
If you have 5VZ, valve cover leaks taken out many center bushings. $.0000002

 

[Kmurt]

UPDATE

Alright so I need some advice. I started digging into the front end to replace sway bar bushings and end links, new OEM outer tie rods (old tie rods had a lot of play) and new Energy Suspension polyurethane steering rack bushings.

Upon taking apart the "D" shaped bushing off the steering rack, I noticed the surface underneath is pretty rusty and deformed. So now I'm debating whether or not to just get a new rack since this is the original rack to the truck or to install the new bushings and hope everything is okay.

The rack itself appears to be leak free and there is no additional play on the inner tie rods. The truck is undercoated with WoolWax so that's why everything looks wet.

What do you guys think?

IMG_2572

IMG_2574

IMG_2567

 

[T4R2014]

Tbh, replace the rack. If it isn't leaking yet, it will soon. Pretty much every 3rd gen past 250k has a very high chance of needing a new rack. Did you pop the boots off the inner tie rod? Mine looked dry but I guess those OEM boots had no issue holding all that ATF in it after I flushed it.

 

[Kmurt]

Tbh, replace the rack. If it isn't leaking yet, it will soon. Pretty much every 3rd gen past 250k has a very high chance of needing a new rack. Did you pop the boots off the inner tie rod? Mine looked dry but I guess those OEM boots had no issue holding all that ATF in it after I flushed it.

That's what I'm leaning towards. I didn't take the boots off yet but I did grab both inner tie rods to move them around and in and out and they seemed fine to me.

I'm thinking at this point the original rack lasted 257,00 miles and 23 years so getting a new OEM rack will last me just as long and I will have everything new.

Funny how a simple bushing swap turns into this, oh well.

 

[T4R2014]

Funny how a simple bushing swap turns into this, oh well.

That's how both of my rack replacements started. It's the new normal at this age, unless it was a garage queen. Also inspect the high pressure line going from the pump to the rack. The hard line gets rusty and it isn't the easiest job to repair. Sunsong makes a very good OEM copy.

 

[Kmurt]

That's how both of my rack replacements started. It's the new normal at this age, unless it was a garage queen. Also inspect the high pressure line going from the pump to the rack. The hard line gets rusty and it isn't the easiest job to repair. Sunsong makes a very good OEM copy.

Thanks I'll check it out.

Do you have a link or any more info on this "Sunsong" hard line just in case I end up down this route?

 

[T4R2014]

Amazon.com

Thanks I'll check it out.

Do you have a link or any more info on this "Sunsong" hard line just in case I end up down this route?

 

[Kmurt]

That's how both of my rack replacements started. It's the new normal at this age, unless it was a garage queen. Also inspect the high pressure line going from the pump to the rack. The hard line gets rusty and it isn't the easiest job to repair. Sunsong makes a very good OEM copy.

So I had to saw off the power steering lines going into the rack, they would not come loose and I was even using the proper flare nut wrench.

The power steering lines looked like they were do for a replacement so I did go ahead and order the Sunsong power steering lines and I'm glad I'm knocking this out too while I'm in this deep.

 

[T4R2014]

So I had to saw off the power steering lines going into the rack, they would not come loose and I was even using the proper flare nut wrench.

The power steering lines looked like they were do for a replacement so I did go ahead and order the Sunsong power steering lines and I'm glad I'm knocking this out too while I'm in this deep.

Yup, moment I saw that you're in NJ I knew exactly what was going to happen.

 

[Kmurt]

Yup, moment I saw that you're in NJ I knew exactly what was going to happen.

You called it lol

 

[Kmurt]

UPDATE #2

Out with the old rack and bushings and in with the new. New OEM steering rack and outer tie rods. Energy Suspension "D" shaped polyurethane bushing on the passenger side of the rack. Energy suspension sway bar bushings and just some Rock Auto sway bar end links installed.

I went ahead and got an alignment done right after and I'm still having the same issue but I think I have narrowed it down to the possible causes. Everything was tightened and torqued to spec as well. I originally applied some silicon grease inside the "D" shaped bushing on the steering rack and now I'm thinking I shouldn't have.

And two, I think I might be missing or just have the wrong hardware to connect the driver side bushing on the rack with the long bolt and washer allowing the rack to also move and not fully tighten the bushing.

Can anyone that has known OEM steering rack hardware confirm if this is the right setup or not? This diagram shows a washer but it looks like it mounts on the other side of the rack? Front steering gear & link for Toyota 4Runner VZN185 - Auto parts - Amayama

I've attached a video and pictures. Let me know what you think. I want to drive my 4runner again!!!

https://youtu.be/d7rNW8YIMVQ?si=7pmuTB7ZWM3_SfLZ

The suspect washer....

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/148555294@N04/54133790405/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_2920"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54133790405_3a856b197e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_2920"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

And the other side of it...

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/148555294@N04/54133674719/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_2926"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54133674719_cbe32b1057_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_2926"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/148555294@N04/54133328996/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_2922"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54133328996_6138b78366_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_2922"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/148555294@N04/54133790255/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_2923"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54133790255_ecf74a02e3_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_2923"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

After removing the silicon grease from the inside of the bushing...

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/148555294@N04/54133614263/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_2925"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54133614263_a4e07c4777_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_2925"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/148555294@N04/54133328906/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_2927"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54133328906_8e1262ab52_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_2927"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>