Steering wheel not centered

[mtbtim]

If your steering wheel is off far enough, you might be maxing out the adjustment of the tie rods to get the steering wheel straight again. I saw this recently when [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I replaced a steering rack for his friend Dave. One tie rod had tons of threads showing and the other one had none.

So, this is what we did when replacing the rack. #1) We made match marks on the tie rod shaft/threads and lock nuts #2) We measured the distance from the lock nut to the end of the threads on the tie rod with lots of threads showing and divided that number by half. When we transferred the tie rods to the new rack, we subtracted that amount from the long side and added that amount to the short side so the tie rods would have an equal amount of adjustment.

When we got the rack in and all bolted up, the wheel was off a bit. Instead of making the adjustment with the tie rods, we made the major adjustment at the rag joint (aka intermediate shaft #2). With the wheels on the ground and the tires pointing straight ahead, I climbed under the truck and removed the two bolts that hold the rag joint together and then loosened the pinch bolts for the upper part of the joint and the lower part of the joint. Next, I had Dave turn his steering wheel straight and hold it there for me. I slid the upper joint up out of the way so I could remove the lower part off the gear splines of the rack and realigned it one tooth at a time until it matched back up with the upper part of the joint. Once they both lined up, I bolted the rag joint back together and we had a steering wheel that was almost perfectly straight and we still had a lot of adjustment available at each outer tie rod so we'd be giving the alignment shop plenty to work with.

We videoed the whole repair and we'll be getting the video out soon to theatre near you.

 

[NegroTundra]

I just did this yesterday after my alignment (told them to straighten the wheel but they did not). Mine was at the 10 o' clock position. I did 3/4 of a turn on each tie rod and it straightened it out perfectly. Not hard at all, took about 10 minutes. Easier than going back to the shop and dealing with those knuckleheads again.

 

[phattyduck]

I just did this yesterday after my alignment (told them to straighten the wheel but they did not). Mine was at the 10 o' clock position. I did 3/4 of a turn on each tie rod and it straightened it out perfectly. Not hard at all, took about 10 minutes. Easier than going back to the shop and dealing with those knuckleheads again.

And now there is a good chance your toe is out of spec. You should at least go get it verified somewhere.

-Charlie

 

[Mark_BC]

I recently took out the steering wheel and column to try to address this loose steering column rattle, and the spline it comes out of at the floor by the brake pedal looks like you could just put it back in one or two teeth over, I don't see why not. Someone said you can't do that because it has a flat face but the bolt that tightens it goes on the outside, it doesn't tighten up against the flat face. Maybe I am missing something tho.

 

[kolelt]

If the wheels not straight then the alignments not good.
Have them center it and re set the toe.

not true, because you do alignment then center the steering after all the alignments have been done... many factors can go into why the steering wheel isnt straight

 

[Tam4511]

not true, because you do alignment then center the steering after all the alignments have been done... many factors can go into why the steering wheel isnt straight

You center it before you adjust the toe. I do alignments every day.

 

[RonJR]

And now there is a good chance your toe is out of spec. You should at least go get it verified somewhere.

-Charlie

No reason it should have moved out of spec if he truly turned both tie rods the same amount, including fractional rotations. The threads are the same pitch on both ends. It does take care, however, not to screw it up. It's easy to turn one an extra quarter turn if you're not careful. You need to put match marks on the tie rod end before you start so you can match the turns accurately.

 

[thegipper]

No reason it should have moved out of spec if he truly turned both tie rods the same amount, including fractional rotations. The threads are the same pitch on both ends. It does take care, however, not to screw it up. It's easy to turn one an extra quarter turn if you're not careful. You need to put match marks on the tie rod end before you start so you can match the turns accurately.

That's exactly what I was going to do, mark their original spot since the alignment is good right now. I'll just be sure to turn equally.

There is plenty of threads left on either end Tim so that shouldn't be an issue. Thanks for the information though.

 

[JayRolla]

not true, because you do alignment then center the steering after all the alignments have been done... many factors can go into why the steering wheel isnt straight

Also not true. You center steering and keep it centered during alignment. No reason to adjust steering unless something was installed incorrectly.

 

[JayRolla]

That's exactly what I was going to do, mark their original spot since the alignment is good right now. I'll just be sure to turn equally.

There is plenty of threads left on either end Tim so that shouldn't be an issue. Thanks for the information though.

Your toe will most likely be off. I've done this and it was slightly off. Get it aligned and aligned correctly. Steering should always be straight unless rack is installed correctly.

 

[thegipper]

the alignment right now is good. Hopefully after an equal adjustment on either side I'll get my steering wheel centered without it screwing the alignment up too bad. I need to get new tires soon so I'll be doing an alignment then.

 

[nc-grayson]

If your steering wheel is off far enough, you might be maxing out the adjustment of the tie rods to get the steering wheel straight again. I saw this recently when [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I replaced a steering rack for his friend Dave. One tie rod had tons of threads showing and the other one had none.

So, this is what we did when replacing the rack. #1) We made match marks on the tie rod shaft/threads and lock nuts #2) We measured the distance from the lock nut to the end of the threads on the tie rod with lots of threads showing and divided that number by half. When we transferred the tie rods to the new rack, we subtracted that amount from the long side and added that amount to the short side so the tie rods would have an equal amount of adjustment.

When we got the rack in and all bolted up, the wheel was off a bit. Instead of making the adjustment with the tie rods, we made the major adjustment at the rag joint (aka intermediate shaft #2). With the wheels on the ground and the tires pointing straight ahead, I climbed under the truck and removed the two bolts that hold the rag joint together and then loosened the pinch bolts for the upper part of the joint and the lower part of the joint. Next, I had Dave turn his steering wheel straight and hold it there for me. I slid the upper joint up out of the way so I could remove the lower part off the gear splines of the rack and realigned it one tooth at a time until it matched back up with the upper part of the joint. Once they both lined up, I bolted the rag joint back together and we had a steering wheel that was almost perfectly straight and we still had a lot of adjustment available at each outer tie rod so we'd be giving the alignment shop plenty to work with.

We videoed the whole repair and we'll be getting the video out soon to theatre near you.

When can I expect this video tim? Pretty sure I know what I'm up against as this is exactly the procedure for installing a steering shaft spacer when doing a BL install......

Question however: any recommendations on how to go about replacing the steering wheel when it's a bit off kilter?

I have a replacement steering wheel awaiting install in the closet because mine is disintegrating and toast. Currently, it's cocked at 11:30 when the truck tracks straight and true.

how should I go about making my match marks when pulling the old wheel to know where to line up the new wheel?

 

[JayRolla]

When can I expect this video tim? Pretty sure I know what I'm up against as this is exactly the procedure for installing a steering shaft spacer when doing a BL install......

Question however: any recommendations on how to go about replacing the steering wheel when it's a bit off kilter?

I have a replacement steering wheel awaiting install in the closet because mine is disintegrating and toast. Currently, it's cocked at 11:30 when the truck tracks straight and true.

how should I go about making my match marks when pulling the old wheel to know where to line up the new wheel?

Steering spacer is pretty easy. Its hard to reach but easy. Tie steering so it dont move. Unbolt rag joint before body lift install. Install BL and then install the spacer. Remote 4 bolts and install 8 bolts.

You cant adjust it at the wheel. You must adjust it at the rack. If the rack is original then it should be centered. If rack was replaced it may be off center. So if rack is centered the steering wheel needs to be straighted during alignment.

 

[mtbtim]

When can I expect this video tim? Pretty sure I know what I'm up against as this is exactly the procedure for installing a steering shaft spacer when doing a BL install......

Question however: any recommendations on how to go about replacing the steering wheel when it's a bit off kilter?

I have a replacement steering wheel awaiting install in the closet because mine is disintegrating and toast. Currently, it's cocked at 11:30 when the truck tracks straight and true.

how should I go about making my match marks when pulling the old wheel to know where to line up the new wheel?

To get the new steering wheel in the same spot, after pulling the air bag unit and whatever else you need to remove, make matchmarks on the steering shaft male splines and steering wheel female splines. Take the steering wheel off and now try to match up where the marks are on the old one and transfer that mark to the new one. Maybe you could find a center spline lined up with a straight edge to some reference point and then count around to the spline that has the matchmark on it. I hope that makes sense.

When replacing the steering wheel, just put it back in the same position as the old one. Instead of making the adjustment at the steering wheel, make it at the rag joint (aka intermediate shaft #2). You have to separate this joint when doing a body lift so it's a good time to get your steering wheel back straight. This is also a good time to look at your outer tie rods and see if there's enough adjustment on both sides for the future when you need an alignment. When we were replacing the steering rack for Dave, we noticed one tie rod had lots of adjustment left and the other was maxed out (no threads showing).

All you have to do is disconnect the two bolts that hold the joint together. Either have a helper now turn the wheel straight and hold it for you or do it yourself and somehow tie or bungy it in place so it won't turn. Next, you loosen the the two pinch bolts (one for the upper half of the joint and one for the lower half of the joint). Slide the upper part of the joint up the shaft and out of the way and slightly tighten the pinch bolt so it stays out of your way and you can pull the lower part off the splines of the steering rack. Now with a little trial and error, slide the lower part of the joint up off the gear on the rack and turn it in the correct direction to get it to line back up with the upper part. If it's not perfectly lined up, slide it back off and try again. When I did it on Dave's truck, I moved it one spline at a time until the bolt holes lined back up. Once it's lined up, put your body lift spacer puck in, use the new longer bolts the kit comes with to bolt the rag joint back together, tighten the two pinch bolts and you're done. You should now have a fairly straight steering wheel.

If you're steering wheel is still slightly off, you could go get an alignment or just live with it. The fine adjustment needs to happen with an adjustment of the tie rods. You could do it yourself but you can't be certain the alignment is perfect anymore so you may as well let them do it for you. Since the outer tie rods weren't adjusted with this process you don't have to get it aligned if you don't want to. All you did is make an adjustment of the position of the rag joint (intermediate shaft #2) and that should not change the alignment. If you had outer tie rods that were way unevenly adjusted, and you made some adjustments to even them out like we did, you'll have to get an alignment.

Sean will be getting the Steering Rack Replacement video out pretty soon so you'll be able to see everything I'm talking about and better understand it.

**Important, start all this with the wheels straight. You can actually do this without lifting the truck off the ground. I had enough room to crawl under Dave's truck to do a final adjustment and his truck is not lifted. With the wheels on the ground, you don't have to worry about the wheels turning on you. If you do lift the front end off the ground, get the wheels straight and don't touch them while you're messing with the rag joint.

 

[nc-grayson]

Steering spacer is pretty easy. Its hard to reach but easy. Tie steering so it dont move. Unbolt rag joint before body lift install. Install BL and then install the spacer. Remote 4 bolts and install 8 bolts.

You cant adjust it at the wheel. You must adjust it at the rack. If the rack is original then it should be centered. If rack was replaced it may be off center. So if rack is centered the steering wheel needs to be straighted during alignment.

BL and steering spacer have been in for a few thousand miles now, thank you for the input however.

To get the new steering wheel in the same spot, after pulling the air bag unit and whatever else you need to remove, make matchmarks on the steering shaft male splines and steering wheel female splines. Take the steering wheel off and now try to match up where the marks are on the old one and transfer that mark to the new one. Maybe you could find a center spline lined up with a straight edge to some reference point and then count around to the spline that has the matchmark on it. I hope that makes sense.

When replacing the steering wheel, just put it back in the same position as the old one. Instead of making the adjustment at the steering wheel, make it at the rag joint (aka intermediate shaft #2). You have to separate this joint when doing a body lift so it's a good time to get your steering wheel back straight. This is also a good time to look at your outer tie rods and see if there's enough adjustment on both sides for the future when you need an alignment. When we were replacing the steering rack for Dave, we noticed one tie rod had lots of adjustment left and the other was maxed out (no threads showing).

All you have to do is disconnect the two bolts that hold the joint together. Either have a helper now turn the wheel straight and hold it for you or do it yourself and somehow tie or bungy it in place so it won't turn. Next, you loosen the the two pinch bolts (one for the upper half of the joint and one for the lower half of the joint). Slide the upper part of the joint up the shaft and out of the way and slightly tighten the pinch bolt so it stays out of your way and you can pull the lower part off the splines of the steering rack. Now with a little trial and error, slide the lower part of the joint up off the gear on the rack and turn it in the correct direction to get it to line back up with the upper part. If it's not perfectly lined up, slide it back off and try again. When I did it on Dave's truck, I moved it one spline at a time until the bolt holes lined back up. Once it's lined up, put your body lift spacer puck in, use the new longer bolts the kit comes with to bolt the rag joint back together, tighten the two pinch bolts and you're done. You should now have a fairly straight steering wheel.

If you're steering wheel is still slightly off, you could go get an alignment or just live with it. The fine adjustment needs to happen with an adjustment of the tie rods. You could do it yourself but you can't be certain the alignment is perfect anymore so you may as well let them do it for you. Since the outer tie rods weren't adjusted with this process you don't have to get it aligned if you don't want to. All you did is make an adjustment of the position of the rag joint (intermediate shaft #2) and that should not change the alignment. If you had outer tie rods that were way unevenly adjusted, and you made some adjustments to even them out like we did, you'll have to get an alignment.

Sean will be getting the Steering Rack Replacement video out pretty soon so you'll be able to see everything I'm talking about and better understand it.

**Important, start all this with the wheels straight. You can actually do this without lifting the truck off the ground. I had enough room to crawl under Dave's truck to do a final adjustment and his truck is not lifted. With the wheels on the ground, you don't have to worry about the wheels turning on you. If you do lift the front end off the ground, get the wheels straight and don't touch them while you're messing with the rag joint.

Thanks Tim. Looking over your post makes sense in my head...but is it necessary to disconnect the bolts that hold the actual rag joint together? Those are a huge PITA to get to in such a tight space....iirc it involved removing one, and then turning the wheel a few degrees to access the second bolt for removal.

It's been a while since I did the BL install....but can't I just loosen the upper and lower pinch bolts on the steering shaft to be able to "knock" it over a spline or two? Like I said it's been a while since I was up in that area, but I can't see/remember/imagine removing the two bolts that join the rag joint together and then loosening the pinch bolts to get the freedom to turn a few splines. Correct me if I'm wrong. That's why I asked for the video because I'm sure it'll be very apparent then!

[MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION]

 

[JayRolla]

[MENTION=112743]nc-grayson[/MENTION]. I just did this. I could not knock it over. I had to remove the BL steering spacer. Then slide the collar off, straighten wheel, slide it back on. It was one of the biggest PITA jobs I did in a while. I know I wont make that mistake twice when installing the rack on another vehicle.

 

[mtbtim]

BL and steering spacer have been in for a few thousand miles now, thank you for the input however.




Thanks Tim. Looking over your post makes sense in my head...but is it necessary to disconnect the bolts that hold the actual rag joint together? Those are a huge PITA to get to in such a tight space....iirc it involved removing one, and then turning the wheel a few degrees to access the second bolt for removal.

It's been a while since I did the BL install....but can't I just loosen the upper and lower pinch bolts on the steering shaft to be able to "knock" it over a spline or two? Like I said it's been a while since I was up in that area, but I can't see/remember/imagine removing the two bolts that join the rag joint together and then loosening the pinch bolts to get the freedom to turn a few splines. Correct me if I'm wrong. That's why I asked for the video because I'm sure it'll be very apparent then!

[MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION]

Yes, like [MENTION=50342]JayRolla[/MENTION] said, it's necessary. You can't use the technique I described without disconnecting the rag joint.

 

[mtbtim]

[MENTION=112743]nc-grayson[/MENTION]. I just did this. I could not knock it over. I had to remove the BL steering spacer. Then slide the collar off, straighten wheel, slide it back on. It was one of the biggest PITA jobs I did in a while. I know I wont make that mistake twice when installing the rack on another vehicle.

Well, I actually didn't find it that hard to get in there. Yes, it's tight and a little bit of a pain in the ass, but once I knew the right length extension and orientation to get in there with the 3/8" ratchet, extension and socket, it wasn't that bad. I don't know, maybe I have daintier hands and arms to get in there.

 

[JayRolla]

Well, I actually didn't find it that hard to get in there. Yes, it's tight and a little bit of a pain in the ass, but once I knew the right length extension and orientation to get in there with the 3/8" ratchet, extension and socket, it wasn't that bad. I don't know, maybe I have daintier hands and arms to get in there.

Not hard to get it loose but I had issues moving it and adjusting it. I made it hard myself I think. HAHA.