Steering wheel shake when brakes applied.

pgomes1150

New member
Hey guys, I have been noticing lately that my steering wheel shakes when I put the brakes on. At first I thought that it just needed to be re-aligned, but when I got new tires and wheels they came with an alignment. A day later the shake was back!

I was wondering if anyone else has this problem and if so, how they fixed it or if I'm going to just have to live with it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
 
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you need to get your rotors cut and resurfaced there warped and or glazed over and even if you cant see it the machine will pick it up when cutting them
 
It could be the rotors.

Or, you could spend some money chasing the rotors (turned, finally replaced, with no improvement) only to have the guy at the alignment shop tell you he can't get it aligned because your lower control arm bushings are shot. Although he'll still charge you for the alignment. Then, you could replace the the bushings (energy suspension poly) and that'll fix the problem.

Ask me how I know.
 
It could be the rotors.

Or, you could spend some money chasing the rotors (turned, finally replaced, with no improvement) only to have the guy at the alignment shop tell you he can't get it aligned because your lower control arm bushings are shot. Although he'll still charge you for the alignment. Then, you could replace the the bushings (energy suspension poly) and that'll fix the problem.

Ask me how I know.

Rotors/pads are easier to DIY than control arm bushings, so OP should be encouraged to start there. Just had this symptom on my 08 with 50k, spent $175 on rotors and pads and takes about 2 hours to do. Well worth a shot.
 
Rotors/pads are easier to DIY than control arm bushings, so OP should be encouraged to start there. Just had this symptom on my 08 with 50k, spent $175 on rotors and pads and takes about 2 hours to do. Well worth a shot.

I wholeheartedly agree, with one clarification. I'd try to have someone measure the runout before buying new everything. I bought new front rotors and pads for $175 like you, and I wouldn't have had to if I had checked the runout (and seen it was within spec) before tossing the old rotors.

But again, I agree. 99% of the time it's the rotors.
 
Go with the BEAST!!! Tundra rotors and calips the whole packadge! never have problems again, but yeah its the rotors mine are doing the same

:bigok:
 
agreed, its the rotors.

but, whether you have them resurfaced, or replaced, you need(should) replace the pads at the same time.

the pads, and rotors have worn into eachother, so any imperfections in the rotor are printed onto the pads aswell.
 
you need to get your rotors cut and resurfaced there warped and or glazed over and even if you cant see it the machine will pick it up when cutting them
what if, I have replaced the front rotors and break pads. replaced the rear brake pads and had the rear rotors machined. also had it aligned. it was fine for a couple months, then it came back worse than before???

( I also have other questions about but will wait on those I guess. )
 
I've replaced my rotors and pads twice in the last 8 months. Both times the shake in the steering wheel has come back, usually worse than before.

I've dropped a lot of cash into fixing this and so far have gotten nowhere.

So, should I have the rotors turned and replace brake pads again?

Is it more likely to be worn bushings than brakes?

It's a 2004 Sport with about 360K miles on it. So it could be the whole truck.
 
I've replaced my rotors and pads twice in the last 8 months. Both times the shake in the steering wheel has come back, usually worse than before.

I've dropped a lot of cash into fixing this and so far have gotten nowhere.

So, should I have the rotors turned and replace brake pads again?

Is it more likely to be worn bushings than brakes?

It's a 2004 Sport with about 360K miles on it. So it could be the whole truck.

Have you had the calipers replaced or rebuilt in that time? These 4th gens are known to have calipers seize up relatively easily.

Throw new pads and rotors on, and the seized caliper will overheat your brakes and cause them to warp again fairly quickly. You may want to look into the 5th gen brake upgrade, since they're a nearly direct bolt on and much less likely to seize up.
 

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