Stereo on w/o key mod?

LM/SE (etc) 555

555 timer IC - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


antiquated ? old, reliable, simple, cheap, works good

and they still sell 1 billion (or so) per year
well I knew it was a lot but I don't believe its that many - never trust wikipedia

I've used them in a half dozen commercial designs back in the late '70's.

As to klunky, that's just an opinion but comparing mechanical relays to solid state is enough for me
 
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Ok, you listed a integrated circuit. I don't know what ams how to get that to work. You offer a option yet you do not provide the info on how to apply it to this application. Can this thing be readily available?

Why offer your opinion and not back it up with info on how it works and how to apply it to this application.
 
Obviously you don't know what I, me, was referencing when I said old antiquated DEI 555 line of products. I was not referring to the same thing as you.
 
gshadow325 said:
Ok, you listed a integrated circuit. I don't know what ams how to get that to work. You offer a option yet you do not provide the info on how to apply it to this application. Can this thing be readily available?

Why offer your opinion and not back it up with info on how it works and how to apply it to this application.
Click to expand...

The internet search I recommended in the original post will take you to $12 pre-built modules based on the 555 or 556(dual)
 
I do a LOT of camping and I like to have the stereo on at times. It is nice to be able to do that without having the key in and the door chime going nuts. On my FJ60 that I owned for 17 years, I simply installed a rocker switch on the dash for stereo power. Yes, I had to turn it off when I got out, but I really quite liked the arrangement for flexibility. There is no reason that cannot work on the 4Runner.
 
Simplest way will be to pull power straight from battery on with a switch installed. Simply find the pos cable off the radio and wire directly to battery. Install a switch either a on/off or timer. As it stands now, it comes through the wiring harness off the fuse block. Install an inline fuse (10 amp) for protection. It would be the simplest option, similar to wiring in an aftermarket amp.
 
Atlanta_man said:
And if you want to use a diode and relays, better use two diodes to avoid smoke:

Special Applications with SPDT Relays, Diagrams
Click to expand...

With your expert insight and long two sentence half responses, why, where and how do you avoid smoke?

Citing the 12 volt. Com relay applications page doesn't really provide much help there.





DC runner said:
Simplest way will be to pull power straight from battery on with a switch installed. Simply find the pos cable off the radio and wire directly to battery. Install a switch either a on/off or timer. As it stands now, it comes through the wiring harness off the fuse block. Install an inline fuse (10 amp) for protection. It would be the simplest option, similar to wiring in an aftermarket amp.
Click to expand...

Why? When there is already a fused power supply behind the radio? All the connections are there and you only need to run one wire from the door trigger?

Honestly not the simplest solution there [MENTION=73017]DC runner[/MENTION]. You are creating a bigger job than it actually is by suggesting the op wire these two relays as a amp.
 
Atlanta_man said:
And if you want to use a diode and relays, better use two diodes to avoid smoke:

Special Applications with SPDT Relays, Diagrams
Click to expand...

no fair changing the original link
the original one in reply #27 above
explains the problem with the one diode

and to claim someone is wiring the relays as an amp

lot of laughs in this ridiculous thread, I'll try to pull myself away now that the facts and opinions are complete

when you are in the hole, quit digging !
 
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Atlanta_man said:
no fair changing the original link
the original one in reply #27 above
explains the problem with the one diode

and to claim someone is wiring the relays as an amp

lot of laughs in this ridiculous thread, I'll try to pull myself away now that the facts and opinions are complete

when you are in the hole, quit digging !
Click to expand...

Dude, you high or something?

Only you can change the link in your posts. Mike, from the 12 volt. Com diagram is showing to do something else in addition to what the OP is asking for. He is also using 1amp diodes. To prevent positive back feeding when the car is off and negative when the car is in accessory position and door is open. In this case it is not necessary.

I am glad you think this is funny, that's what everyone is here for. Your enjoyment. SMH wtf?

Are you talking about your own opinions and my facts? I don't really understand where you are coming from.
 
G, I think he's just relenting... whether or not, let it happen man. No point starting/continuing an argument that's just gonna result in frustrated people and no conclusions. Especially when there are communication clarity issues happening, i.e. here. Anyway, your idea already won me over. I like doing my own stuff instead of buying prefabbed stuff, if I can. :]

DC, I think your idea in the context of my 4th gen would be easy enough; just using a SPDT with inputs from accessory +12v and batt +12v (the latter when "on" I suppose) wires on the stereo harness, and obviously output to the acc +12v pin on the stereo, and it sounds enticing, honestly, but
A: I really like the idea of getting the fully automated stereo-off-on-door-open-but-on-with-keyout/doorclosed functionality,
B: Gshadow spent all this time on it so now I gotta do it :P and
C: I already got the parts. Heh.
Also D: relays are officially fascinating now that I know how they work, which is thanks to this project.

Still, though, thanks for the suggestion. Hopefully someone else can make use of that.
 
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