Stereo system upgrade 2014 Trail Premium w/ Nav

[10ac]

What do you all think of this upgrade im about to do to my factory stereo.
Its a 2014 T4R TEP. Navigation, non-JBL.

OEM Headunit w/ nav and non-jbl or use my Alpine x008u 8" touchscreen NAV unit(if it will fit)
Audio control lc7i
Alpine v-9 5 channel amplifier
Dash- jl audio c2 3.5
Front doors- jl audio c5 6.5 component set
Rear doors- jl audio c3 component set that has center mount tweeter adapters
Rear hatch panel- c2 6.5 coaxials
Rear subs- polk audio 10" subs x2
75 feet of DYNAMAT

Planning to let the oem deck power the rear hatch speakers and the dash speakers. Then use my alpine 5 channel to power the front and rear doors components and sub

This seem to be a good combo?

 

[Randyman...]

I never even tried to use the stock radio (any stock radio for that matter!) to drive the system - but I know the LC7i will give you a very good chance for success.

If the JL 3.5"s will fit in the dash (they should - please baffle them properly into the dash openings) - I'd go with a true 6x9" midbass in the front doors - quite a few descent ones to look at. You will have substantially more cone area and superior extension compared to a 6.5" in the front doors (and you really don't want the doors to run as full-range with a tweeter if you are getting that portion of your soundstage from the 3.5" coax dash speakers).

I'd also nix the rear-hatch speakers IMNSHO (wasted money). TBH - the ONLY time my rear-door speakers are faded on is when someone is in the rear seats and really wants to hear the system. Otherwise the rear door speakers (and especially the rear-hatch speakers) only distract and confuse the real soundstage that propagates from the front...

This brings into question your crossover strategy and quantity of discrete amplifier channels. I'd consider a passive DIY crossover from the 6x9"s in the front doors (a simple inductor will do in a pinch) to the 3.5"s in the dash (a simple 12dB/Octave L/C circuit to help with power-handling) - and let those share amplifier channels accordingly (2 channels drive all 4 speakers up front). Use the extra 2 channels for the rear doors so you can fade them (mute them ) as needed. Otherwise - go active for the front (using all 4 primary channels on that amp), and look for a tiny 2-channel amp for the rear doors (the rear doors should really be where you skimp if needed IMO).

Having every driver location on its own amp channel is advantageous for a number of reasons (time-alignment possibilities and crossover tweak-ability) assuming you can splurge for the DSP to allow it. 6-8 Channel DSP's start to get a bit pricey - but not out of the realm of sanity IMO.

Subs are a little light for my tastes - but I'm known to be a bit over the top with my SPL/SQL requirements. I'm sure they will be a nice balanced match for your front stage...

 

[GB-man]

Seems like a wealth of good info has already been offered. I'm no professional just a guy who replaced the whole system in my TRD pro last week.

That said, I would absolutely axe the LC and go for a headunit. You're investing a fair amount of cash and the oem headunit is going to be the Achilles heel until it's removed.

Yeah, you have to get a dash kit painted by a local collision schop. Good news, it only costs ~60 bucks.

I'm running pioneer 8200nex, focal krx2 components in the front, focal access 6.5 coax in the rear doors, JL dual 8" micro sub box off a JL 900/5 amp. Sound is just what I wanted. Loud, clean, just enough low to fill out the sound without rattling the streets. Also dynamat four doors plus hatch.

I was building a system based on the stock headunit as well with nearly identical components. Both top local shops talked me out of using focals or c5s/c7s without swapping the head untit. They said it was like setting money on fire.

 

[10ac]

I never even tried to use the stock radio (any stock radio for that matter!) to drive the system - but I know the LC7i will give you a very good chance for success.

If the JL 3.5"s will fit in the dash (they should - please baffle them properly into the dash openings) - I'd go with a true 6x9" midbass in the front doors - quite a few descent ones to look at. You will have substantially more cone area and superior extension compared to a 6.5" in the front doors (and you really don't want the doors to run as full-range with a tweeter if you are getting that portion of your soundstage from the 3.5" coax dash speakers).

I'd also nix the rear-hatch speakers IMNSHO (wasted money). TBH - the ONLY time my rear-door speakers are faded on is when someone is in the rear seats and really wants to hear the system. Otherwise the rear door speakers (and especially the rear-hatch speakers) only distract and confuse the real soundstage that propagates from the front...

This brings into question your crossover strategy and quantity of discrete amplifier channels. I'd consider a passive DIY crossover from the 6x9"s in the front doors (a simple inductor will do in a pinch) to the 3.5"s in the dash (a simple 12dB/Octave L/C circuit to help with power-handling) - and let those share amplifier channels accordingly (2 channels drive all 4 speakers up front). Use the extra 2 channels for the rear doors so you can fade them (mute them ) as needed. Otherwise - go active for the front (using all 4 primary channels on that amp), and look for a tiny 2-channel amp for the rear doors (the rear doors should really be where you skimp if needed IMO).

Having every driver location on its own amp channel is advantageous for a number of reasons (time-alignment possibilities and crossover tweak-ability) assuming you can splurge for the DSP to allow it. 6-8 Channel DSP's start to get a bit pricey - but not out of the realm of sanity IMO.

Subs are a little light for my tastes - but I'm known to be a bit over the top with my SPL/SQL requirements. I'm sure they will be a nice balanced match for your front stage...

Seems like a wealth of good info has already been offered. I'm no professional just a guy who replaced the whole system in my TRD pro last week.

That said, I would absolutely axe the LC and go for a headunit. You're investing a fair amount of cash and the oem headunit is going to be the Achilles heel until it's removed.

Yeah, you have to get a dash kit painted by a local collision schop. Good news, it only costs ~60 bucks.

I'm running pioneer 8200nex, focal krx2 components in the front, focal access 6.5 coax in the rear doors, JL dual 8" micro sub box off a JL 900/5 amp. Sound is just what I wanted. Loud, clean, just enough low to fill out the sound without rattling the streets. Also dynamat four doors plus hatch.

I was building a system based on the stock headunit as well with nearly identical components. Both top local shops talked me out of using focals or c5s/c7s without swapping the head untit. They said it was like setting money on fire.

I already have everything i listed above except the lc7i and 3.5 dash speakers. Everything else is brand new and i never had a chance to install in my 13 tacoma dc. I did have a type r shallow mount 12" sub but sold that.
I do have a nice head unit already. Its a Alpine x008u 8" in dash gps unit. I bought that for my double cab tacoma with alpines perfect fit kit.
Only reason i wasnt gonna use it was because i figured the factory setup may be more seemless and more oem looking.
Well i guess i will use that head unit i already have. Heck! I may even add alpines flip down monitor thats hdmi since my head unit is as well. My 3 year old daughter may like that
So anyways maybe ill buy another alpine amp that matches my v-9 alpine amp.

**** what dash kit should i go with thats the best looking? Im sure ill have to modify to fit my 8" unit into dash

 

[BrianSD_42]

I can't wait to hear the JL-Audio. Do it!

 

[10ac]

I can't wait to hear the JL-Audio. Do it!

will be doing this install within few weeks. guess ill be putting the Alpine nav unit i have into it if it will fit. its a 8" screen. i hope it does fit because i paid 1500 for it 3 months ago brand new and never got to enjoy it really along with all the other JL stuff thats all still new.
my plan is to buy the 3 1/2" jl dash speakers and a set of the jl c2 coaxials for the back hatch then start the install. when its done, you and i will have to meet up and do a little trail run!!!
oh! and i have 75 feet of dynamat extreme to put on too.

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

Didn't see anything about having the dash kit or the steering wheel control kit, might wanna get those before you start the installation!

And yes, your alpine head unit will be much better sounding than the stock head unit, and you really won't need the lc7i.