Strawberry Milkshake

[BrianSD_42]

1) don't ever go to a quick lube place

2) start saving for a new (used) transmission; from what I have read on T4R, the failure often occurs 10-15K miles after the incident.

 

[SmokEaterHD]

Well, I'm having a heck of a time finding someone to flush this transmission for a decent price. One place is $189 and another is $129 + $10 per quart. I'm still looking though. Another question is should I be worried that this contaminated fluid has sat for several months? It was over the summer when the problem began and they just parked the vehicle.

 

[badattitude]

I had the stawberry milkshake on my 1999 SR5 in August of 2010. The Toyota dealer flushed through 62 quarts of ATF before the ATF came out with no water/coolant residue at all. The tranny still runs fine (although I always think it may go out at any miniute). I do drive it hard. The key, I believe, was that I didn't drive at all after the steam came from the radiator. I shut it down right away. When you mentioned steam I thought I should let you know they can be saved (for a while at least).

I think you have a chance to save that trans. You can use cheap ATF for the first 3/4 of the flush. I think you should plan on using 60 quarts total. Then finish with a quality synthetic or syn blend. Also a good idea to drain and fill a month after the main flush.

Use the Koyo A1998 raditor, you don't need an external trans cooler.


Also, you should flush the cooling system with Toyota Red coolant twice (drive a month or so between coolant flushes).

Hope you get another 200K of of it.

Also, the broken back latch is a common problem on these 4Runners. You can tell if the "release" on the hatch feels loose. From I recall from reading another post, you can remove the intrerior hatch panel to get to the plastic part in the rear hatch that needs to be replaced.

PS-I would be concerned that coolant was in the trans for several months. Surely it would have been better to flush before rust could start or before rubber starts to swell. But what can you do now.

Your options are to just buy a new trans now or try to save that one. It is a hard choice.

 

[SmokEaterHD]

One place quoted me $129 plus $10/qt for the fluid they use to flush. Another place quoted me $189 flat. If I do it myself with cheap fluid it will be $2+ per quart regardless. How much is a refurb tranny? May be cheaper to just buy one and toss this one.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

One place quoted me $129 plus $10/qt for the fluid they use to flush. Another place quoted me $189 flat. If I do it myself with cheap fluid it will be $2+ per quart regardless. How much is a refurb tranny? May be cheaper to just buy one and toss this one.

I can guarantee you the $189 flat won't use 60 quarts though, whether it's clean or not. But, you might not need that either. I'd try flushing it, getting it as clean as you can and them go from there. It's a gamble but so is buying a used trans.

 

[SmokEaterHD]

I can guarantee you the $189 flat won't use 60 quarts though, whether it's clean or not. But, you might not need that either. I'd try flushing it, getting it as clean as you can and them go from there. It's a gamble but so is buying a used trans.

You mean flushing it myself first?

 

[ajonesnv]

Well, this is a story. I hope it all works out. Ive read up on Milkshakes and hope for the best that I dont have to deal with that. I would probably do what PitBull is saying clean it the best you can then once you get it all buttoned back-up take it to a shop to be flushed.

Im not trying to self promote here, but I do have a transmission that I was going to hold on to my self if I ended up needing it. Its a crappy story on how I ended up with a second transmission but Ill save that for you if you do end up needing it and want background.

Best of luck brother, and welcome. Once she is running you will love every moment of her!

 

[PitbullRescuer]

You mean flushing it myself first?

Or do the $189 flush. I would try the flush and fill before I buy a tranny for it.

 

[SmokEaterHD]

Since they didn't drive it but a couple of miles after it blew I'll just flush it myself to see how clean it gets. And then go from there. I spoke to an auto repair guy and he said that coolant doesn't react well with the glue on the clutch discs. So I'm a bit worried since it sat several months with that milkshake concoction.

 

[combatmedic]

Honestly, I think you'll be fine. I'd flush 50+ qts through her and drain and fill 500+ miles later or so. These engines/trannies are pretty bulletproof for the most part. The thing that you have going for you, is that the original owner didnt drive it far after the incident. best of luck my friend.

Since they didn't drive it but a couple of miles after it blew I'll just flush it myself to see how clean it gets. And then go from there. I spoke to an auto repair guy and he said that coolant doesn't react well with the glue on the clutch discs. So I'm a bit worried since it sat several months with that milkshake concoction.

 

[SmokEaterHD]

Well, I just ordered a Koyo A1998 radiator and a water pump/timing belt kit with new pulleys and tensioners. Hope I got everything. How hard is the water pump to install? Figured it wasn't too bad, but wasn't sure how to adjust the tensioners, etc.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

I've never done one but there are a few DIY write up's in the "Sticky" thread. It actually doesn't look that bad. I'm debating on doing mine for the $300 in parts or letting my buddy (owns an Indy shop and is a former Toyota Master Tech) do it for another $300.

 

[SmokEaterHD]

Got started on my Yota today. Got out of class early so I had some extra time to spend. Went to back it off the trailer and the clutch discs were slipping pretty bad so I hope the soon to come tranny flush takes care of it. I did manage to empty and pull the radiator, fan, fan shroud, skid plate, and timing cover. The radiator was shot. New radiator should be here Tuesday and my water pump kit/timing belt will be here Saturday. Sunday after I get off duty and out of church I'm gonna tackle the water pump/timing belt. There was a sticker on the timing cover that said it had been about 2 years and 15K miles since the last timing belt, but I'm gonna play it safe & just replace it since I'll have it all apart anyway. Once I get the new radiator installed and flushed (which will probably be next weekend since I'm on duty and have school/clinicals all week) I'm gonna start flushing the tranny. I picked up some cheap fluid today to get started. Figured I'd start draining on Sunday and let it drain as much as possible for a few days since I won't be able to work on it and also see what I can get out of my TC as well. Then either Thursday or whatever other day I'm off I'm gonna start the flush. Couldn't find a pump service I can actually afford so I'm gonna have to do it all myself. I'm picky though so I should be able to get the majority out and then gonna flush it again after driving for a month or so. Now I just hope the water pump/timing belt part isn't too bad.

 

[VA07]

If you are mechanically inclined enough to do the TB/Water Pump yourself, I would think that you are able to pull the transmission yourself. I personally would pull the trans and the torque converter off(where most of the fluid resides) and drain it. I would think that this would be the more difficult but more thorough method for ensuring all of the old fluid is out and only new fresh fluid is in. While it is more time consuming, it saves you the cost of the "power flush" and saves you from running 60+quarts of fluid though the system.

If this is the route you decide to go, here are some helpful links:

From: http://www.ncttora.com

Automatic Trans FSM: Automatic Transmission

 

[SmokEaterHD]

Got the water pump/timing belt kit today. Tomorrow I'm gonna get it swapped out hopefully without any issues and drain the tranny. What's the best way to refill the tranny? I know on my old Jeep I had to pump the fluid into it from under the vehicle. I bought a couple gallon jugs to flush with since I need so much fluid I thought it would be cheaper. My "pump" only works off quarts. I guess I can just refill the quarts if I have to pump it all thru there if need be, but I may try to use a funnel and dump it thru the dipstick tube. That way the first round will somewhat "rinse" from a higher spot in the tranny. Figured I'd run a couple quarts worth thru that with the drain plug open before I refill it to run thru the internal pump. Had a mechanic tell me to check for an inspection plate and see if I can turn the torque convertor to help drain it as well. He said it "might" have a drain on it too, but wasn't sure. The new Koyo radiator should be here on Tuesday. Bad part is I might get to work on it again Thursday evening, but won't be able to spend a lot of time on it until the weekend. Hoping I'm rolling next week. I'm also looking for a source to pick up the hood cable and rear hatch latch. Not having much luck with the local auto parts stores. Any suggestions?

 

[SmokEaterHD]

Got a little bit done today. Not as much as I wanted as we were late getting home from church, but got the old pump pulled, and new pump installed. I tried to install the new timing belt, but having issues with the belt tensioner. I took the old one off be cause I didn't have the Snap On tool that compresses the tensioner and my new timing belt kit came with a new tensioner. Well, I tried to compress it with a handfull of tools to no avail. And once you unbolt it you find this little deal underneath. Once again, nothing can compress it. I thought some channel locks or a C clamp would do the trick so I could get a pin in there, but no luck. Any suggestions? I can't get the new timing belt on the way it is now. I just need to compress that little pin and that's it. HELP!! On a good note, my radiator came early. But it might now make a difference if I can't get the timing belt on. Here is a pic of the pin I'm talking about.

If I could just compress it enough to put a holding pin in it I'd be in good shape. The directions I found on here say to compress the tensioner in a vice and pin it with a small hex key or allen wrench. The part you need to compress is attached to the vehicle?????

 

[getlam]

i have a 99 limited with 300km on it. had the milkshake issue about 10km ago. dont even waste your time trying to flush the system, any amount of water on the clutches will just smoke them. like one of the earlier guys mentioned, if youre handy enough to change pump etc, just pull trans and find a shop that will rebuild it for you. i found a guy that would have done whole job for 1500 including r&r but i already had it out. bill was 700 and was well worth it. if you do the $200+ flush and have no success, youre starting that much in the hole! mine only needed one part other than clutches and he had it off another tranny that he had for parts. try talking to import salvage yards in your area, they always seem to know someone that does them. hope this helps.

 

[l3igl3ang]

Got a little bit done today. Not as much as I wanted as we were late getting home from church, but got the old pump pulled, and new pump installed. I tried to install the new timing belt, but having issues with the belt tensioner. I took the old one off be cause I didn't have the Snap On tool that compresses the tensioner and my new timing belt kit came with a new tensioner. Well, I tried to compress it with a handfull of tools to no avail. And once you unbolt it you find this little deal underneath. Once again, nothing can compress it. I thought some channel locks or a C clamp would do the trick so I could get a pin in there, but no luck. Any suggestions? I can't get the new timing belt on the way it is now. I just need to compress that little pin and that's it. HELP!! On a good note, my radiator came early. But it might now make a difference if I can't get the timing belt on. Here is a pic of the pin I'm talking about.

If I could just compress it enough to put a holding pin in it I'd be in good shape. The directions I found on here say to compress the tensioner in a vice and pin it with a small hex key or allen wrench. The part you need to compress is attached to the vehicle?????

If i was u i would try to find the snapon tool or another tool to use cause If u cant get the tensioner to compress then u will have to take it off the truck and that sucks balls cause u have to remove the ac compresser to get to the botls theres no way around this i tired. And its a mess with all the freeon u have to let it all out it take it to some one who can get the freeon out for u. Once u the ac off then its a peice of cake takeing the tensioner off. A vice will work to compress it I used a big C clamp on mine it work like a charm cause i didnt have a vice to open that big.

 

[SmokEaterHD]

Guess I'll try a bigger C clamp.

 

[l3igl3ang]

Problem is with a bigger clamp u cant get it in there. I did the timming belt pullys when i first bought the tacoma cause they were grawling. and i some how was able undo the belt and change pullys and put the belt back on w/o haveing to take the tensioner off. but the 2nd time when i did the water pump i couldnt get it back on w/o taking the tensioner off. I know the first time it seem like i spent about a hour working with it and finaly got it on so it can be done. What i did was i put the pully that sets on top of the tensioner on then i some how was able to wedge it in the side and pry it down and it fianly went on u might give that a shot and see if u can get it. But w/o the pully on it i dont see any way of doing it.