Strawberry Milkshake

New day, new problems. Got out of class and decided I was gonna work on it again. Finally found a thread online that told me what I needed to do to remove the tensioner. I just needed a wobble extension for a socket wrench. Well, I got it off (still not fun) and put it in the vise. Talk about tough. I don't have a big vise so it took a BFH to get it to where I could stick something in the hole to pin it in place. Remounted it and then fought the timing belt to get it back on. What's the point of the tensioner pulley if you still have to fight the belt on installation? So it's on at this point and all seems well. I start to put it all back together and I noticed that the top two cam pulleys appear to be one notch off on the belt from the crankshaft timing mark. It must of happened when I pulled the pin on the tensioner pulley even though I didn't notice it move that much. Will that completely throw all my work out the door? Is there an allowable difference on those timing marks? We are literally talking one tooth of the timing belt. Is there a way to adjust the timing without taking it all back apart? The two cam pulleys on top are in the same spot, but they are off the one notch from the crank pulley. I really want to get this project done, but I can't if I have to keep redoing everything I've already done. Also, like an idiot I forgot to draw a diagram and there isn't one under the hood or in the owner's manual showing the routing diagram of the accessory drive belts. Does anyone know of an online source that shows a pic of the diagram? I haven't been able to find one anywhere. Thanks! I'm on duty for the next 48 hours so it'll be Thursday after class before I get a chance to work on it again. Hope I can get some answers before then.
 
what i used for the grenade pin for the tensioner was a persion screwdrive set found at dollar tree it worked like a charn. seems like when i did the belt i had to advance the belt 1 or 2 teeth on the crankshft to make up for when it jumps the teethe after u undo the tensioner. i put vice grips on the cams to make sure the belt didnt move off the cams

o wait i think i trun the crank to where it was a little off on the mark and the timming mark so when i drawed the belt tight it went right into place and all the marks lined up.

I belive u have to rorate the motor 6 times after u got the belts lined up and they all should line right back up like at first.
 
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10 Min Atomatic Transmission Fluid Flush + Replacement (Most Cars) - YouTube

I've used this method to flush all my vehicles transmissions and it works great. Where the filler tube is small, I do 2 Qts at a time. Pump out 2Qts and refill, repeat until the exiting fluid is clean and pink again.

Here is the procedure I used on my Lexus IS300 and Mercury Villager.
DIY automatic transmission flush - my.IS - Lexus IS Forum

Yikes! You seem to be making this much more difficult than it is. Don't take offense, none was intended. Line the camshaft gears up with the timing marks on the heads and start with the paasenger side cam gear and wrap the belt around clockwise. Put your tensioner on but don't release it just yet. Once the belt is on, use a breaker bar to rotate the crankshaft 2 full turns and re-check the timimg marks on the cams and crank. if you are off by a tooth back the crankshaft off for slack and shift the belt. Check again and it should be correct. Once you can rotate the engine and get the marks lined up, then release the tensioner.
 
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That is the procedure I tried to explain earlier and have used on all 3 of our 4runners with no issues. Going to use it on the Lexus GX470 soon. Nice video.
 
mmml4 said:
Update please.
Click to expand...

Update is I got it all buttoned back up last night. Tore it down and reset the timing belt. The issue I was having is I didn't have enough hands. Had a buddy come hold the cams in place while I slipped the belt on the crank. Now I got that done and installed the new Koyo radiator and planning on flushing the radiator and tranny tomorrow when I get off duty. Having never done a timing belt before I was a little nervous. But it wasn't too bad once I got the hang of it and what I needed to do. The second set of hands sure helped though as the belt is still pretty tight to put on. Thanks for the links, I'll check them out before I flush the tranny.
 
Yeah surprisingly the 3.4s TB is pretty easy to do compared to some other cars i did. cough cough ford contour blah it was a pita every time we get it set and dive it a but it would jump. i hate fords. Aso if u dont have any extra set of hands just vice grip the belt to the top cams this is what i did :D.
 
I was off today and the weather was somewhat decent so I pushed it out of the garage, pulled and cleaned the overflow reservoir and filled the radiator with water. Then started flushing the tranny. Got thru 12 gallons before I ran out of clean fluid. Gonna grab a couple more gallons on Wednesday when I'm off duty next. Sure hope that's all it takes as I've got a ton of $$$ just in fluid alone. I got an E.R. clinical tomorrow all day and then pulling some OT at the station tomorrow night. Work and class on Monday, & another 24 hr shift at my other dept on Tuesday. Sure wish I was gonna be off sooner. I'm stoked to get this thing on the road.

Also, I noticed the fan seemed kinda wobbly when I started it today so I guess I'll take it off and reinstall it. Is there a specific way it goes on so it's balanced? I really didn't pay any attention to it when I took it off.

I also read in the prev. owner's paperwork where she had inquired about the doors not locking electronically. They will unlock, but not lock. Anyone have a clue what that is all about. The online response she had gotten had something to do with the ECU. And also had a quote of $400. Is there an easier fix?
 
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Hey SmokEaterHD, I was struck with the Strawberry Milkshake 5 minutes into my drive to work yesterday morning, I have the radiator (KOYO) ordered so I can start the process too! :happens:
 
FIRE74 said:
Hey SmokEaterHD, I was struck with the Strawberry Milkshake 5 minutes into my drive to work yesterday morning, I have the radiator (KOYO) ordered so I can start the process too! :happens:
Click to expand...

Might as well change out your water pump and timing belt while you're at it. Good luck!
 
Got the 48-hr bug Tuesday so I didn't get much done yesterday. What I did find was the parts store gave me the wrong tranny filter. :bash: So I got that swapped out today and gonna get it all wrapped up tomorrow and take a test drive. My pan didn't have anything unusual in it so I'm hoping for the best.
 
Drcoffee said:
10 Min Atomatic Transmission Fluid Flush + Replacement (Most Cars) - YouTube

I've used this method to flush all my vehicles transmissions and it works great. Where the filler tube is small, I do 2 Qts at a time. Pump out 2Qts and refill, repeat until the exiting fluid is clean and pink again.
Click to expand...

Did you use the connections at the bottom of the radiator for this procedure on your Runner?

drain%20line%20connected.JPG
 
Im going to do this soon. I just spent most of today replacing all the differential and transfer case oil and the radiator. Before I put the new rad in I decided to replace the PS return hose and trans cooler lines which means another trip to the parts store.

The drivers side is the return line to the transmission and thats the one you want to eject the fluid from. If you extend the hose with a clear tube you'll be able to better see when the fresh fluid is being pumped out.
 
If you are using a new radiator &/or transmission cooler I would use the line that pumps from the transmission to the cooler to avoid getting the pink crap in your new cooler.
 
I just did an external cooler on mine. Which line would you guys recommend I use to flush my tranny? I've never had the milkshake, just want to flush it for good maintenance.
 
If you have a new cooler I'd just flush the whole system if your tranny fluid looks good. If you have really dirty fluid or crap in it I'd flush it without the cooler. Only reason why I would flush it with the cooler is to push out any of the leftover crap that it might have in it from the factory. That being said, without flushing the cooler use the line that goes from tranny to cooler, if you want the cooler flushed use the line that goes from the cooler back to the tranny.
 
A little update. Got it all flushed, inspected, licensed, & back on the road. Drove it to my hospital clinical yesterday and then to work today. So far, so good. Just pulled it out of the fire bay where I had cleaned the inside and outside. Still got to order the hood cable and rear latch. Only other thing left is to figure out why the electric door locks won't lock. Have to lock it manually. Any clues?
 
looks nice how much did u get it for? also with the locks dose it make the locking sound when u push the locks or nothing. It maybe a power issue
 
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It was cheap. Family friend cheap. Lol.

The locks don't make any noise when I try to lock them. But the switches will unlock the doors.
 
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