Stripped transmission drain plug... Now what?

Steamdonkey

New member
I've stripped a bolt or two before, but this was different. I noticed the drain plug didn't unscrew freely once I broke it loose. I let the fluid drain out and I looked at the bolt threads before reinstalling it. They looked fine, so I proceeded to screw it back in and noticed the same odd resistance when it got to about half way in. About the time the bolt was seated the resistance dropped off and I knew what had happened. What a feeling... :mad2:

I tried pulling on the bolt with vice grips while turning it counterclockwise and you can imagine how ineffective that was. So I'm thinking about getting a new pan, gasket, filter, etc... Has anyone else pulled this sweet move with a 4th gen V8 (2004) and have any part numbers handy? I found a similar thread for a 3.4L (3rd gen v6?) but I've not found anything on the 4th gen V8. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
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If you can post pictures we can potentially help you more. Do you have a welder or someone who can potentially help you weld a new head into the bolt to get some better grip?

Sent from my Mi MIX 2S using Tapatalk
 
If you can post pictures we can potentially help you more. Do you have a welder or someone who can potentially help you weld a new head into the bolt to get some better grip?

Sent from my Mi MIX 2S using Tapatalk
Sounds like the threads stripped, not the head. Sucks.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 
Sorry to hear it, man. I’ve always found that the diagrams on the official Toyota parts website is the fastest way to get part numbers. From there I get to surfing sites that sell genuine OEM parts to find the best deal. I personally would do OEM for all these parts although I usually just use RTV sealant on this application. There’s a couple really good threads on here listing good sites for genuine parts.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I was able to force the plug out by wedging a chisel between the bolt head and the pan while banging away with a 3/8" mini impact wrench. When the bolt came out it was wearing all the threads from the pan and then some. The original hole is smooth now, so I'm going to drill and tap it for a 10mm flanged bolt. I'll report back with any noteworthy findings.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I was able to force the plug out by wedging a chisel between the bolt head and the pan while banging away with a 3/8" mini impact wrench. When the bolt came out it was wearing all the threads from the pan and then some. The original hole is smooth now, so I'm going to drill and tap it for a 10mm flanged bolt. I'll report back with any noteworthy findings.

Put grease on the tap and the grease will collect most of the shavings.
 
I would just drop the pan and replace the "filter" while you are at it and then install a new pan/gasket/drain plug and call it done. That's if you don't need the vehicle while you wait for the parts to come in.
 
If you do end up replacing the pan, see if you can find an 03 pan so you can have a dipstick!

Somewhere in this vast forum, I'm sure I read something about the two pans being interchangeable.
 
If you do end up replacing the pan, see if you can find an 03 pan so you can have a dipstick!

Somewhere in this vast forum, I'm sure I read something about the two pans being interchangeable.

Not to stir the pot here, I also have done 0 research on the matter....

But just because the pan fits doesn't mean the level on the dipstick would be accurate.
 
Not to stir the pot here, I also have done 0 research on the matter....
But just because the pan fits doesn't mean the level on the dipstick would be accurate.

This is an incredibly important and valid point.

Although I wonder... one could theoretically install said dipsticked pan and check the fluid using the check holes, compare it against the 03 dipstick and re-scribe the stick if needed?

Murph: Wasting time since 1972
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I was able to force the plug out by wedging a chisel between the bolt head and the pan while banging away with a 3/8" mini impact wrench. When the bolt came out it was wearing all the threads from the pan and then some. The original hole is smooth now, so I'm going to drill and tap it for a 10mm flanged bolt. I'll report back with any noteworthy findings.

After getting set up with a tap drill and 10mm x 1.5 tap I learned the original bolt was 10mm. I'm really on a roll here! :bravo: I ran the tap through and managed to find enough material to cut some marginal treads for the new 10mm bolt. It'll work for a temporary fix while I get a real solution figured out.
 
This is an incredibly important and valid point.

Although I wonder... one could theoretically install said dipsticked pan and check the fluid using the check holes, compare it against the 03 dipstick and re-scribe the stick if needed?

Murph: Wasting time since 1972

The dipstick pan doesn't have the "check fluid level" hole/plug, it only has the drain plug.
 
The dipstick pan doesn't have the "check fluid level" hole/plug, it only has the drain plug.

In theory, you could make sure the level is proper before draining. Measure the amount drained. Install the dipstick pan. Refill with the same amount of fluid as you drained. Then check it on the dipstick and scribe a mark for full. Now a hot cold range might be a little trickier but doable within an allowable margin of error I would assume.
 
In theory, you could make sure the level is proper before draining. Measure the amount drained. Install the dipstick pan. Refill with the same amount of fluid as you drained. Then check it on the dipstick and scribe a mark for full. Now a hot cold range might be a little trickier but doable within an allowable margin of error I would assume.

Yes it could done that way, the only caveat is if both pans are the same height, if they're different heights then you would have an issue with the pickup not being submerged in the fluid properly or the fluid level in the pan being too high which could cause issue with the valve body.

You would also lose the benefit of the transmission being totally sealed, the reason many manufacturers have gone to the sealed transmissions is it eliminates oxygen and humidity from getting in the transmission, both of which contaminates the fluid, which shorten the life of the transmission even if you change the fluid often.

I have considered swapping the pans on my sealed transmission, I would love to have a dipstick, but after the research I've done as to why the transmission is sealed, I would rather have the longevity of the transmission over the dipstick convenience.
 
For anyone following this, I ended up using a Helicoil 5546-10 M10 x 1.5 Metric Coarse Thread Repair Kit. I fished some small magnets on a wire up into the pan several times to get all the metal shavings. So far so good, no leaks.
 
You would also lose the benefit of the transmission being totally sealed, the reason many manufacturers have gone to the sealed transmissions is it eliminates oxygen and humidity from getting in the transmission, both of which contaminates the fluid, which shorten the life of the transmission even if you change the fluid often.

I have considered swapping the pans on my sealed transmission, I would love to have a dipstick, but after the research I've done as to why the transmission is sealed, I would rather have the longevity of the transmission over the dipstick convenience.

Its interesting you say its sealed, because it still has a breather vent up in the engine compartment. And ATF expands so much when hot, the air has to go someplace. Id bet that the volume increases by a quart at least from cold to hot. Oxidation is still an issue.

I cant explain why toyota did it that way. Other than the consumer will have to pay a fortune to get service done. What cracks me up is that they pulled the dipstick but programmed the ecm to tell you the optimal trans temp by shorting the OBD port. All service centers will have a techstream so why use the obd?
 

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