Stripped Transmission Drain Plug

If you use this stuff in all your drain plugs, they don't need to be tightened as much, don't need new crush washers, won't leak, and won't vibrate loose. It comes off easily when it is time to change the oil again.
 
Dealt with this issue a few days ago... Was able to resolve the issue by re taping the pan threads with m10x1.5 tap which I bought from Lowe's. Used telescopic magnet to clean the shavings and then filled and drained 2 qt of transmission fluid to flush out small metal shavings. Used OEM plug and washer and torqued it to 15 ft lb.
 
I've torqued mine to spec about 9 times now (milkshake) without issue. I did replace the crush washer on the last change.

It's hard to say why some strip and some don't.
 
I think I cross threaded the plug last time I changed the transmission oil. It didn't leak that time but once I removed it this time the plug threads were done. I have Fumoto drain valve on my engine oil pan. Love it! Makes engine oil change a breeze. Wish there was something similar available for transmission pans.
 
I'm a member of this club too. However I did not strip mine, I think the dealer did. when I bought it , it showed that the tranny fluid had been changed about 30k before hand. because when I bought it shortly after I wanted to change all the fluids, add a cooler and found it stripped,
I did then new pan
 
Another victim here. But in my situation the bolt and pan stripped while i was undoing the plug...wtf! I almost went into panic mode hahaha. I rushed over to Orielys and rented their thread resorter set. Thank God they had 10x1.5 in the kit. Then i rushed over to stealership and got a new bolt and crush washer. It was messy but it worked perfectly. I am not going to ever remove this damn plug again. Next time i do a fluid change im just going to remove the hose going to the radiator to empty the fluid.
 
cbr900boy said:
Another victim here. But in my situation the bolt and pan stripped while i was undoing the plug...wtf! I almost went into panic mode hahaha. I rushed over to Orielys and rented their thread resorter set. Thank God they had 10x1.5 in the kit. Then i rushed over to stealership and got a new bolt and crush washer. It was messy but it worked perfectly. I am not going to ever remove this damn plug again. Next time i do a fluid change im just going to remove the hose going to the radiator to empty the fluid.
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Sounds like the previous owner stripped it for you. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I will be having a video coming out soon showing how to do a trans flush via the transmission cooler return line. Not an original idea of ours since I copied the technique from a good write-up that was written a long time ago, but I don't think there's any good videos for this, so people will probably dig it. Stay tuned.
 
How important would you guys say it is to torque this drain plug to spec?

I had a stripped bolt/pan scare this morning while trying to drain some excess fluid (dealer over-filled because by dipstick was broken). The bolt was missing most of the threads and just kept turning while I was trying to tighten it down. It backed out okay, so I went to the dealer and got a new plug and washer. I put it back in with a ratchet until it was snug, then got out the torque wrench set to 15 ft lb. Started turning and it didn't seem to be getting tighter like it should (don't know if that was just the crush washer or what). Anyway, my gut told me to stop, but it didn't get to 15 ft lb.

It doesn't seem to be leaking. You think I'm alright to leave it on there just "snug"?
 
trevo_man said:
How important would you guys say it is to torque this drain plug to spec?



I had a stripped bolt/pan scare this morning while trying to drain some excess fluid (dealer over-filled because by dipstick was broken). The bolt was missing most of the threads and just kept turning while I was trying to tighten it down. It backed out okay, so I went to the dealer and got a new plug and washer. I put it back in with a ratchet until it was snug, then got out the torque wrench set to 15 ft lb. Started turning and it didn't seem to be getting tighter like it should (don't know if that was just the crush washer or what). Anyway, my gut told me to stop, but it didn't get to 15 ft lb.



It doesn't seem to be leaking. You think I'm alright to leave it on there just "snug"?
Click to expand...


Imo, snug is OK as long as you're triple sure the thread itself is not damaged and thus the bolt can back out.

I destroyed my thread for that pan and had to put a larger bolt in there to thread a new one. I'm aware that is not the proper way to rethread and I need to someday correct it.

Btw you can drain transmission fluid quite easily through the transmission cooler lines on the radiator as well.


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I forgot to post the video I promised on this thread. Here's the transmission fluid flush [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I did for [MENTION=110858]JoeBand[/MENTION].

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RumPXivBlk8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
With the brand new plug and crush washer "snugged" it has been almost two days driving around and it is clean. No sign of any leaking. Like I said, it felt pretty tight going all the way in, I just didn't have the stomach to torque it and potentially feel it spin.

Question is... if it isn't leaking, do I call it good and just use the radiator line for drains from here on out? Obviously if I start seeing a leak develop I may need to get a new pan (I'm not a big fan of re-threading or other "temp" fixes).
 
4R#3 said:
Fair question. Your threads sound like they are on their last legs so be ready for a fix next time your trans fluid is due for a change. Just keep an eye on it. I kinda dislike always having to check my parking spot and/or pan area for drips, so I did the fix. I call a properly done re-tap a permanent fix. It's metal on metal and if done well, it's a stout repair. The radiator drain method seems a solid alternative. I prefer the drain plug. Swing on by and I'll re-tap yours for ya!
Click to expand...

I actually prefer drain and refills too. Instead of waiting 30,000 miles to do a full flush, I do a drain and refill every 10,000 miles to keep the fluid in good shape. I end up exchanging around 13.5-15 quarts over the 30,000 miles. I know this is a dilution process and isn't perfect but neither is waiting a long period to do a full flush. The life of your ATF is directly effected by the temperature it reaches. As the temperature goes up, the life of your ATF goes down. If you happen to be towing, driving up steep mountain roads, wheeling, you are most likely going to hit some higher temps which means the effective life of your ATF has diminished and might not protect your transmission from excessive wear for the full interval you wait to do a complete flush. With the drain and refill dilution process, you're giving your trans some fresh fluid on a more regular basis.
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made the trans flush video for anyone wishing to learn how to renew the fluid all at once.
 
I looked at my plug today and it looks like there is some gasket maker around the plug. I don't know whether the previous owner stripped the plug, or there was a small leak and they stopped the leak with the gasket maker.

Concerned to open it up now to drain the fluid
 
When we got the 97 puppy hauler both the trans and engine grain plugs has messed up threads on the bolts. The female threads were both ok and seemed harder than the bolt material.


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I've asked this before and never heard if anyone knows, but, speaking of transmission drain plugs, has anyone heard of or tried a Fumoto valve for their transmission?

I've put one on the oil pan and love it so far. I saw this thread and it got me thinking about a Fumoto for the trans. If they make one for the trans, once you install it you're good to go for all drains and refills without worrying about stripping it.
 
Should the transmission plug unscrew as easily as the oil drain plug? I recently did a drain and fill and the trans drain plug did not unscrew like the oil plug does.
 
Whtrnr said:
Should the transmission plug unscrew as easily as the oil drain plug? I recently did a drain and fill and the trans drain plug did not unscrew like the oil plug does.
Click to expand...



Get a new drain plug and gasket from the dealer. Don't spend 10 on eBay


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Damnit

quicksilvr said:
My experience with the trans pan and bolt:

The factory bolt is designed to be used with a crush washer. If the factory bolt ever gets reinstalled into the pan WITHOUT a crush washer, and then tightened down (but not stripped), the pan is still usually ruined. Because that little shoulder on the bolt gets forced up into the pan and ruins the threads. If you try to go back with a crush washer after the pans been compromised by a washer-less bolt, it won't seem to tighten down correctly and seal, and then it strips when you try to. But if some goofball (or yourself) forgot the washer at some point and tightend the bolt down anyway....just keep using the bolt without the washer....carefully. Tight enough to snug down, but not too tight to strip it.


All that said,' once it's already stripped, I've drilled the bolt out and re-tapped the pan for a bigger one.
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This would have been nice to know! Lesson of the day, always read the forums first! Damnit!
 
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