you know, as i was typing i was thinking i could be totally wrong hence why i said to only use anti-seize on the key one, but you are absolutely right.
i've use dit in the past but it isn't recommended. i stand corrected.
Stuck / Seized Lug Nut Lock
- Thread starter honda99ex
- Start date
you know, as i was typing i was thinking i could be totally wrong hence why i said to only use anti-seize on the key one, but you are absolutely right.
i've use dit in the past but it isn't recommended. i stand corrected.
Benski
Member
I had 4 factory locking lug nuts when I bought my truck and the heads eventually started to strip. I replaced them with oem nuts to match the rest. I've used anti-seize on both vehicle and trailer lugs for years with no problems. Many years ago I had to change a flat tire on my first vehicle and I almost broke the tire iron trying to get off the lug nuts. The wheels get salt and grime on them and dry lugs almost weld themselves on, especially if you are driving out on the beach or have a boat trailer you use in salt water. I've only had to apply a light coat on them once, and they are good. I use a torque wrench and it doesn't affect torque pressure, poundage is poundage.
Last edited:
Soupbean
Member
Stuck lug nuts
As said by someone previously, I would throw the locking lug nuts in the garbage. About the anti seize comments..., if you look at your lug nuts you’ll more than likely have either a conical or flat seat lug nut. This is the area that contacts the rim and is causing resistance when you torque your lug nuts.
Use a dab of atti seize on the stud and torque to proper factory specs.
I’ve been doing it this way now for about 35 years with no issues so far.
Never been a big fan of the conical nuts as these are probably on a non-hubcentric rim, but they can work ok if everything is perfectly clean, balanced and centered when you’re mounting your wheels.
As said by someone previously, I would throw the locking lug nuts in the garbage. About the anti seize comments..., if you look at your lug nuts you’ll more than likely have either a conical or flat seat lug nut. This is the area that contacts the rim and is causing resistance when you torque your lug nuts.
Use a dab of atti seize on the stud and torque to proper factory specs.
I’ve been doing it this way now for about 35 years with no issues so far.
Never been a big fan of the conical nuts as these are probably on a non-hubcentric rim, but they can work ok if everything is perfectly clean, balanced and centered when you’re mounting your wheels.
DesertCanyons
New member
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DesertCanyons
New member
locking lug nuts
That's good advice. I'll look for those. I think it's possible for people to steal the rims and tires. Given the cost of these and the tires, it's possible for some low life thief to make up to 1/2 of MSRP for a stolen set. My ICON alloy rims and AT tires could net 1/2 of $2000 and I don't want to have to replace them. I sold my OEM rims and tires for $500 to a Tacoma owner.
Anti-seize is part grease and part aluminum. There's also a Zinc version. I believe the metal material is there to prevent electrolysis and rust, as much as it is a lubricant. It works generally pretty well on typical bolts. I use it on the skid plate bolts which I have to remove occasionally to work on the car. I put it on everything with threads when I did the suspension lift but I haven't tried using it on lug nuts yet.
I often put a little bit of heavy oil, 70 to 90 weight, on the lug nuts. I do the same thing on the back seat bolts because some of the ends of the bolts are exposed under the truck and because I take them out every time I go camping.
The lug nut torque, 85 ft lbs, comes from the resistance of the tire against the wheel hub surface and the force of pressure desired there. Turning a threaded bolt tight generates force against the rim and the rim against the wheel hub surface. I don't think oil affects that force. It only helps when you try to remove them, when you want it to be easy and free of rust.
I believe I have conical lug nuts and lug nut seats on the ICON rims. The OEM rims and lug nuts were flat. The two styles are not compatible. Don't try to put flat lug nuts on conical holes, or vice versa. From the photos I thought that's what the OP might have done.
I assume the rim is hub centric or else the rim would spin out of round. I'm not sure what hub-centric means if not that?
That's good advice. I'll look for those. I think it's possible for people to steal the rims and tires. Given the cost of these and the tires, it's possible for some low life thief to make up to 1/2 of MSRP for a stolen set. My ICON alloy rims and AT tires could net 1/2 of $2000 and I don't want to have to replace them. I sold my OEM rims and tires for $500 to a Tacoma owner.
Anti-seize is part grease and part aluminum. There's also a Zinc version. I believe the metal material is there to prevent electrolysis and rust, as much as it is a lubricant. It works generally pretty well on typical bolts. I use it on the skid plate bolts which I have to remove occasionally to work on the car. I put it on everything with threads when I did the suspension lift but I haven't tried using it on lug nuts yet.
I often put a little bit of heavy oil, 70 to 90 weight, on the lug nuts. I do the same thing on the back seat bolts because some of the ends of the bolts are exposed under the truck and because I take them out every time I go camping.
The lug nut torque, 85 ft lbs, comes from the resistance of the tire against the wheel hub surface and the force of pressure desired there. Turning a threaded bolt tight generates force against the rim and the rim against the wheel hub surface. I don't think oil affects that force. It only helps when you try to remove them, when you want it to be easy and free of rust.
I believe I have conical lug nuts and lug nut seats on the ICON rims. The OEM rims and lug nuts were flat. The two styles are not compatible. Don't try to put flat lug nuts on conical holes, or vice versa. From the photos I thought that's what the OP might have done.
I assume the rim is hub centric or else the rim would spin out of round. I'm not sure what hub-centric means if not that?
No i didn't mix flat vs conical. Rather the normal lug nuts are the type with the washer. Came OEM and when McGard sent me the replacement they sent me the same so they think that's the correct style for the rim. The difference is that the locking nut does NOT have a washer. Both the lugs and the locking nut are conical in shape.
Posted above
These came with the truck from the factory. If I knew it would be such a big hassle I would've swapped them out long time ago only that the regular lugs according to McGard are only sold to Toyota, not the aftermarket. So I couldn't get them. I think I wasted a day trying to find them then quit looking.
DesertCanyons
New member
Okay thanks. I was shooting from memory. My mistake.
My new Gorilla lug nuts have no washers.
Aside from your issue, I always use a cross bar, 4 socket lug wrench for the lug nuts, not a torque wrench and definitely not an impact wrench. It's the X-shaped tool that spins easily in your hands when loosening and first tightening the nuts. After torqueing the lug nuts on once I checked the force needed to use the cross wrench. Now I just carry the cross wrench.
