Justinishere
New member
Do both wheels spin on a 2wd 06 4runner?
If not, where and how can I get a locking diff?
If not, where and how can I get a locking diff?
Stupid and simple question about diffs.
- Thread starter Justinishere
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20034RunnerV84x2
New member
That makes 0 sense.
Justinishere
New member
yeah sorry about that actually, its been a long day here.
I'm in Afghanistan, and I recently aquired a 4runner while over here (it was a good price) , its back home, I was just wondering if it spins both the tires or just one?
I'm in Afghanistan, and I recently aquired a 4runner while over here (it was a good price) , its back home, I was just wondering if it spins both the tires or just one?
Justinishere
New member
or if that still doesn't make sense, if I was ever to burn out, would both of the tires smoke?
CookieRoe
Senior Member
pretty sure all 4R came with traction control, so even if the 4R had a posi (limited slip diff or whatever........ it's early), electronic nannies won't let you.
Justinishere
New member
Yeah it was just an example. I'm just wondering, because my first truck was a 2wd f150 and only one tire spun when on trails and stuff. Then I got a 4x4 dodge and noticed the big difference in 2wd when both tires were spinning on trails. Just wondering how this 2wd 4Runner will handle the trails really.
CookieRoe
Senior Member
to better answer your question, look at this thread:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...f-does-my-toyota-4runner-have.html#post656989
I sincerely doubt you'll have trouble on the trails! (even with 2wd) :thumb:
Justinishere
New member
Thanks man.
<<<<
Senior Member
Answer:
You'll get some slip while under load or turning, therefore no 11's on the pavement after burn-out. It'll prevent you from braking stuff while on hard surface. If you want diff locked I suggest installing air lock for rear diff. That'll give you option to do it only when needed with a press of the button.
I hope this helps. GL
You'll get some slip while under load or turning, therefore no 11's on the pavement after burn-out. It'll prevent you from braking stuff while on hard surface. If you want diff locked I suggest installing air lock for rear diff. That'll give you option to do it only when needed with a press of the button.
I hope this helps. GL
Rattlecanpaint
New member
Basically how a differential works is they spin the tire with the LEAST amount of traction. This is so you can go around corners on pavement without wearing tires out prematurely and making a lot of noise (tires chirping.) Think about this. When you go around a corner the outside tire has to cover a lot more ground and so it spins a lot faster than the inside tire. This is why we have differentials.
If you want to lock the 2 together so they spin the same regardless of traction, you need a locking differential. Lots of companies make these. I.E. Detroit, Lock Right, Aussie, etc, etc. All of these "Locking differentials" will ratchet when used on dry pavement to compensate for wheel speed differences in cornering but when one tire has no traction at all (in the air) the two are "locked together" and spin the same speed. These may have strange street manners or make a clunk noises from time to time if they get into a bind.
ARB air lockers or the infamous Toyota "E-Locker" lock the tires together and do not ratchet for cornering when turned on. This makes steering more difficult and increases wear on tires and drive train components. The fact you can turn them on and off is why they are called "selectable" lockers. When not needed you turn them off and they act like a normal "open" diff.
Spools are the cheapest and easiest way to lock the tires together but they are always locked together and do not ratchet. Both tires spin the same speed all the time regardless of cornering or traction differences between the 2 driven wheels. Spools are not recommended for anything driven on the street.
As for your truck, I'd recommend a locker some sort if you plan on ever taking it off road in any way as it will be stuck very easily with only 1 tire spinning. Something like a Lock Right or Aussie will be the cheapest option and easiest install. You will hear a clicking noise coming from the rear end parking lots and low speed turning. An ARB is much more expensive and will require someone who knows how to set up gears as the carrier and all is replaced. Depending on where you have this done it can cost $1500 or so. Just the Locker can cost up to a grand including air compressor and hardware. The Toyota E locker is the coolest one out there but it is even more expensive since you will have to modify the axle housing and possibly have to get a whole new housing all together. (I'm not sure on your particular model which axle is in it.) The early strait axle trucks ('82-'85) had a front housing that could be modified to accept the e-locker and up to '95 rear axles will. Not sure about the newer stuff.
Hope this helps. And most of all, thank you for your service.
If you want to lock the 2 together so they spin the same regardless of traction, you need a locking differential. Lots of companies make these. I.E. Detroit, Lock Right, Aussie, etc, etc. All of these "Locking differentials" will ratchet when used on dry pavement to compensate for wheel speed differences in cornering but when one tire has no traction at all (in the air) the two are "locked together" and spin the same speed. These may have strange street manners or make a clunk noises from time to time if they get into a bind.
ARB air lockers or the infamous Toyota "E-Locker" lock the tires together and do not ratchet for cornering when turned on. This makes steering more difficult and increases wear on tires and drive train components. The fact you can turn them on and off is why they are called "selectable" lockers. When not needed you turn them off and they act like a normal "open" diff.
Spools are the cheapest and easiest way to lock the tires together but they are always locked together and do not ratchet. Both tires spin the same speed all the time regardless of cornering or traction differences between the 2 driven wheels. Spools are not recommended for anything driven on the street.
As for your truck, I'd recommend a locker some sort if you plan on ever taking it off road in any way as it will be stuck very easily with only 1 tire spinning. Something like a Lock Right or Aussie will be the cheapest option and easiest install. You will hear a clicking noise coming from the rear end parking lots and low speed turning. An ARB is much more expensive and will require someone who knows how to set up gears as the carrier and all is replaced. Depending on where you have this done it can cost $1500 or so. Just the Locker can cost up to a grand including air compressor and hardware. The Toyota E locker is the coolest one out there but it is even more expensive since you will have to modify the axle housing and possibly have to get a whole new housing all together. (I'm not sure on your particular model which axle is in it.) The early strait axle trucks ('82-'85) had a front housing that could be modified to accept the e-locker and up to '95 rear axles will. Not sure about the newer stuff.
Hope this helps. And most of all, thank you for your service.
Last edited:
The 2wd should have auto limited slip (auto-lsd). It's a button you push and when one tire slips, the truck applies brakes to that wheel only, forcing the other tire to get some torque to turn. Won't work for burnouts, but helps in the mud or slippery conditions.
Read more here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/77263-auto-lsd-vs-traction-control.html
Read more here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/77263-auto-lsd-vs-traction-control.html
