Stupid dealer, plastic oil filter assembly

[Big Daddy K]

^^^^ and that was the worst day ever ^^^^

Mine wasn't quite that bad but it did take a 24" pipe wrench turning it 1/16th of an inch at a time. It was Sunday and luckily O'Reilly's was open and had the Dorman in stock. When I took it to the counter, the dude just laughs and said "plastic one broke, eh".
The cheap one didn't leak but I did replace it with OEM at the next change and added a Fumoto valve.

 

[nb rob]

Mine wasn't quite that bad but it did take a 24" pipe wrench turning it 1/16th of an inch at a time. It was Sunday and luckily O'Reilly's was open and had the Dorman in stock. When I took it to the counter, the dude just laughs and said "plastic one broke, eh".
The cheap one didn't leak but I did replace it with OEM at the next change and added a Fumoto valve.

not to derail the thread, but that's on my wishlist too. Good call on the fumoto.

The doorman was pretty messy. I had to file some galling off of the threads. I've been meaning to replace it with the toyota OEM, but it's been flawless for the last 4 oil changes or so. Goes on and off buttery smooth. I replaced the center post with the original OEM one from the carnage

 

[jrandom]

I had all of the non-threaded portion break free, and the threaded portion remained in place.

I was extremely worried that I would damage the threads of the engine portion (it's actually not part of the engine block, but another piece)...as I watched someone with an avalon destroy their engine block online by cutting away with a dremel and tearing up those threads-- I wound up finally breaking the inside threaded portion free by spending an afternoon with an old soldering iron scoring and melting through the plastic. it took more than 2 hours.

It had occurred to me that a hot soldering iron near oil on the underside of the engine was not safe or healthy-- but by that time I was ready to meet my maker.

That is some fkd up business right there :doh:

 

[ElectroBoy]

What a mess. [MENTION=409307]callihan_44[/MENTION] [MENTION=122813]nb rob[/MENTION] [MENTION=165711]Big Daddy K[/MENTION], you are champs. Good recovery.

 

[rdruss]

I am thinking to skip swapping out the aluminum filter housing for plastic and just bite the bullet and get the Baxter spin-on adapter since clearance won't be an issue with the RCI skid.

Definitely!!

 

[QwikKotaTx]

I am thinking to skip swapping out the aluminum filter housing for plastic and just bite the bullet and get the Baxter spin-on adapter since clearance won't be an issue with the RCI skid.

$200 for the adapter is nuts. I see the aluminum filter housing online for $18 shipped or so. I've done 12 oil changes (2 at dealer) and no issues on the plastic piece but never liked that material.

 

[flyrv9]

I think a soldering iron and some oil would only produce some smoke and of course an oil smell.

 

[nb rob]

I think a soldering iron and some oil would only produce some smoke and of course an oil smell.

you are correct. and the occasional hot drip of oil. And of course, fumes from melting plastic

 

[HanginInUtah]

I have been the only one to change my oil, and the first thing I did is add the Fumoto drain. The only problem with it is that it takes a bit longer to get all the oil drained out of that smaller opening. But it sits under the skid, and I don't have to worry about plug gaskets or stripping threads. And I haven't had any issues yet with the plastic housing, but I'm removing it myself. The one thing I bypass is trying to remove the plug and use the plastic adapter to pop up the valve and drain the oil. I just unthread the housing and let it drain like I would a normal oil filter before removing it. A little more wiping my hands off, but less frustration. That damn plastic adapter is a pain to get in there juuuuussst right, and I had oil sprayed all over the place before I finally got it right. I can catch all of the oil dripping down the sides of the housing. I can't guess where the plastic tool will get it to ricochet and then I have way more cleanup to do.
The only other thing I did was ditch the plastic retainer on the front air dam thing. One less tool to take with me underneath

 

[callihan_44]

well amazon prime paid for itself , the part was delivered yesterday a day early...thank god because winter weather is coming . I think the oem aluminum housing actually goes in smoother than the plastic one does, I popped out the center tube as described in another thread and didnt have to bend the tabs...just push the tube to one side and the opposing side pops out of socket, I had it done in about 10 seconds and installed in the new housing. When screwing in the new housing it does have an abrupt stop point when it bottoms out, feels nice and secure and NOT over tightened ! I highly recommend this swap!

 

[callihan_44]

a side note: using toyota filter and O rings, mobil 1 0w-20 advanced fuel economy ( I may switch to toyota oil next change for quieter performance) dorman drain plug gasket ....oh and it's nice to see the engine still full of oil when its time to change the oil because my last vehicle would have been down 1.5 qts

 

[Nuke]

Can anyone confirm that Toyota p/n 15620-31060 is correct for the '19 T4R 4.0 engine? I seem to get a message that that part doesn't fit on at least 1 website (Ebay).

 

[rageandlove]

Which Fumoto drain did you use? There appear to be three on the website, of various lengths.

I have been the only one to change my oil, and the first thing I did is add the Fumoto drain. The only problem with it is that it takes a bit longer to get all the oil drained out of that smaller opening. But it sits under the skid, and I don't have to worry about plug gaskets or stripping threads. And I haven't had any issues yet with the plastic housing, but I'm removing it myself. The one thing I bypass is trying to remove the plug and use the plastic adapter to pop up the valve and drain the oil. I just unthread the housing and let it drain like I would a normal oil filter before removing it. A little more wiping my hands off, but less frustration. That damn plastic adapter is a pain to get in there juuuuussst right, and I had oil sprayed all over the place before I finally got it right. I can catch all of the oil dripping down the sides of the housing. I can't guess where the plastic tool will get it to ricochet and then I have way more cleanup to do.
The only other thing I did was ditch the plastic retainer on the front air dam thing. One less tool to take with me underneath

 

[JAXJeremy]

Can anyone confirm that Toyota p/n 15620-31060 is correct for the '19 T4R 4.0 engine? I seem to get a message that that part doesn't fit on at least 1 website (Ebay).

yes, PN 15620-31060 will work with all the 4R 4.0 5th gen engines.

 

[drewsro]

Which Fumoto drain did you use? There appear to be three on the website, of various lengths.

There are different types of the Fumoto drain valve. Some of no nipple, some have a small one, and some have the longer one. I ordered one with the small nipple so that I could attach a hose to it if I wanted to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FFELTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[sclui56]

There are different types of the Fumoto drain valve. Some of no nipple, some have a small one, and some have the longer one. I ordered one with the small nipple so that I could attach a hose to it if I wanted to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FFELTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ended up with the same one. While looking around, I also came across the ones from http://www.nospillsystems.com, these are similar to the Motiv drain for the filter housing. Thought about it and decided I didn't want to carry another tool around just to drain the oil.

 

[Stabbi]

same issue here - exactly the same. You have to get an oil filter wrench -shown by another post here- which uses the "flats" rather than the "ears." I got mine off by using a long wrench/breaker bar which my son slowly rotated as I held the oil filter wrench by pushing it up onto the oil filter housing from underneath. I will not go back to the dealer or anyone else for a oil change. It was clearly put on using the same wrench as all other tasks..ie wheel removal.

 

[headpaneer]

well the dealer got an earful and agreed to give me a courtesy car till the part arrives, reluctantly because " i attempted the oil change myself"... I then gave him a rundown of my experience of working on engines which included oil changes and letting him know what little torque it takes to tighten the oil filter and it was tight to the point of cracking the assembly

The first oil change I did after the two year "complimentary" service expired, I encountered the over-torqued filter housing. I stopped right there and took it to the dealer the next morning. The service manager did not seem the least bit surprised by my claim and replaced the filter. I only had to clean up a little residual mess.
While changing the oil for the second time yesterday, I found that the housing drain plug was over torqued! The entire filter housing rotated, when trying to loosen the plug. I eventually got it loose and now should have not issues the next oil change but I am going to swap to the metal housing for piece of mind next time.

Glad everything worked out for you!

 

[ElectroBoy]

yes, PN 15620-31060 will work with all the 4R 4.0 5th gen engines.

Yep. It fits the 4 Runner engine. This part number actually is listed as OEM for Camrys, Avalon, Rav4, etc, but not 4Runners. Go figure.

BTW, I never trust part fitment advice from 3rd party sites like eBay or Amazon. Go to a real Toyota parts dealer online site or oempartsource. (But in this case you’d get the same no fit message).

 

[GNB]

Stories like this are the reason I have always changed my oil and filter since 1975.

The 4Runner is so super easy to work-on too.