suggestions on front seat mount fail

So I took the plunge today. I didn't take a lot of pictures, but I am in the process of putting in some 2003 Acura TL-S seats.

Since I live in San Diego, I ditched the rear seat heater. The way I figure it is that the value of the truck has diminished enough so far that who ever gets this vehicle AFTER me, if I decide to sell it, will not care about originality.

The idea is this: chop out the existing front support (that was easy with a sawzall), use 1.25" thick wall square tube for the seat mount frame, cut off the stock seat mounting junk, and weld 1.5" square stock to the seat rails while cutting out one side (creating a u-shape) to slip over the 1.25" square tube. Then I will bolt the seat to it.

The one thing I haven't figured out yet is how to mount the new frame to the floor. The floor is not flat, at all. I have pounded a little bit to flatten it on three sides, but the void that the heater blower/rear heat left is about 2". I might have to weld some more square stock to the back inner corner to make up the difference.

I am debating getting some 1/4" flat stock and running bolts through my new frame from the bottom rather than welding the frame to the floor.





Here are the seats. I am gonna wire up power to them too. And about where they will sit. I am stoked.




Oh, and here is a link to my thread at yotatech for retrofitting other seats into a 4Runner with existing mounts. The seats I used were from a 4th Gen Prelude. Good seats, sit nice and low. Hopefully I am not breaking any rules for cross forum posting.

95 Prelude Seats into 3rd Gen 4Runner - YotaTech Forums
 
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I've had the same issues so thanks for the thread.

Has anyone managed to do a simple fix where you bolt it down with a washer and put some locktite on the nut?

More importantly how do I access underneath where the bolt rusted out and fell down into? I know I gotta tear up the carpet and everything, but it looks like it goes to an area that is inaccessible. Help?
 
I had commented on this thread about 5 years ago with the same problem. I ended up using my Dremel and cutting at square hole 1" X 1" on the back of the cross bar to access the nut. I then held the nut with needle nose pliers while I tightened the bolt from the front. Worked like a charm. You could probably use a drill bit and a jig saw to cut the same sized opening if you don't have a Dremel. No welding involved, and is a good alternative to drilling through the floor.
 


My fix , flat washer with nut welded on the washer then the washer welded in place. After cutting the old shit out.
 

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