I HAVE A 2000 4-RUNNER LTD. JUST STARTED HAVING THIS PROBLEM & SO FAR UNABLE TO HAVE IT DIAGNOSED. WHEN FIRST STARTING TO DRIVE IN THE AM, TRUCK DOES NOT WANT TO MOVE NO MATTER HOW MUCH GAS I GIVE IT. I CAN GO VERY SLOWLY ABOUT 1/2 BLK, FEEL IT SHIFT AND THEN IT DRIVES FINE. NO REPEAT OF PROBLEM DURING THE DAY (LUNCH OR DRIVING HOME). HAVE HAD THE TRANNY FLUID CHANGED, TESTS RAN - NOTHING INTERNAL/EXTERNAL. DOESN'T SEEMS TO BE A TRANNY PROBLEM. NO LEAKS ANY WHERE. DEALER RECENTLY TOLD ME IT WAS REAR AXLE SEALS. $1K!! YEAH RIGHT. HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM? RESOLUTION? IDEAS? GOTTA GET IT FIXED- HATE TO TRADE IT IN ON A FORD! LOL
Suggestions Wanted-!
- Thread starter RA1950
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boostedprozac
New member
I think if the mods moved this to the right section of the forum, you'd get some insights as to what the problem might be.
Suggestions Wanted-
Suggestion Wanted: I have a 2000 4-Runner Ltd. Only in the morning, first thing, when I start my truck and give it gas, it doesn't want to move. It's very VERY slow! About 1 house away, I feel it shift and then it drives fine. This problem does not occur again during the day. I have had the tranny fluid changed; tranny checked, no leaks any place - no one can find out what is wrong. I keep up with all maintenance and use OEM parts. I talked to a Toyota dealer who told me it was the rear axle seals. I have checked the brakes/rotors - they are not wet. Again no leakage on the driveway. Think he might me blowing smoke....Very frustrated!! Has anyone had this happen? Sugegstions? Love my truck and sure would hate to have to trade it in on a Ford! LOL
Suggestion Wanted: I have a 2000 4-Runner Ltd. Only in the morning, first thing, when I start my truck and give it gas, it doesn't want to move. It's very VERY slow! About 1 house away, I feel it shift and then it drives fine. This problem does not occur again during the day. I have had the tranny fluid changed; tranny checked, no leaks any place - no one can find out what is wrong. I keep up with all maintenance and use OEM parts. I talked to a Toyota dealer who told me it was the rear axle seals. I have checked the brakes/rotors - they are not wet. Again no leakage on the driveway. Think he might me blowing smoke....Very frustrated!! Has anyone had this happen? Sugegstions? Love my truck and sure would hate to have to trade it in on a Ford! LOL
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
Re: Suggestions Wanted-
Do the rpm's go up? Does it feel like the engine is producing and it's just trying to over-power a 'hanging' p-brake or is the engine super weak? During those first few feet what happens if you pop it into N? Does it roll freely? If you try to rev it does it rev freely and normally? (Don't rev too much on a cold engine.)
:cheers:
RA1950 said:
Do the rpm's go up? Does it feel like the engine is producing and it's just trying to over-power a 'hanging' p-brake or is the engine super weak? During those first few feet what happens if you pop it into N? Does it roll freely? If you try to rev it does it rev freely and normally? (Don't rev too much on a cold engine.)
:cheers:
I'll try the N tomorrow am. doesn't matter how much gas I give it, does not want to move forward normally. never happens in reverse. And only in the morning first thing. I'm thinking valve somewhere? in the trans? Truck rolls freely. I did drain a qt of tranny fluid out and put in a bottle of Lucas transmission stuff. No difference.
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
RA1950 said:
I'm thinking drum p-brakes never hold that well going in R, thay hold great going forward. Do you use the p-brake? If you're confident there's no brake issue and the problem is in the trans try starting out with the shifter in 1(L) rather than D and see what it does.
:cheers:
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CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
I don't know if the following applies to your Toyota. I have seen it on Nissan, Jag and others.RA1950 said:
When the engine temp is below a certain threshold (it's pretty low, like 80F) the engine computer limits output via controlling throttle position and max rpm to protect the engine. Maybe your bumping that "feature" (if the 3.4L does that). Now if one of your temp sensors is mis-queing and the ECM thinks it's -10 or something...
Bottom line is try manually selecting L and take what I just wrote as a wild stab in the dark...
:cheers:
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CJ3Flyr said:
Good idea. We had an SL65 AMG with sort-of the same problem, only it happened after the engine warmed up a bit. The oil temp sensor sent back a faulty temperature reading to the Engine control unit which in turn greatly reduced power to protect the engine from overheating. In this case, the ECU saw a temperature that was too high but was just a malfunctioning oil temp sensor.
