Super White Not So Super?

[DreamsOfDirt]

I've had my Super White TRDORP for 14 months and I'm wondering if the paint is already fading.

Don't get me wrong, it's still white. However, I have seen other vehicles that seem even brighter white. Obviously, it could be that there is just brighter white paint out there than Toyota uses. Or it could be that I have some form of hypochodiac disorder where I think there is something wrong with my rig when there isn't.

Has anyone else noticed this, or am I crazy (distinct possibility).

FYI, my 4runner is parked in a garage while I'm at work so I don't expect the same level of fading as someone that parks it outside 24/7.

 

[3wbdriver]

Almost 5 years on an open air driveway in the deep south. It is still OMG White when it's clean. Mind you I don't wash it as often as I should. But the wife just commented on one of our few sunny days last week that it is too bright. I still can't get a decent picture of it when it's clean and the sun is in full shine.

 

[tral]

Living in NC and frequenting Uwharrie trails the dirt is orange. Typically takes 2 to 3 washings to clean off. This year I clayed it after the season and was amazed at the results. Only took like an hour or so.

 

[berto_s]

Yeah, you need to clean it. After that use a good wax. Problem solved.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

[YelloLab]

Super White is a single stage paint and oxidizes. All non metallic paints from Toyota are single stage paints. using a high quality sealant (not the same as wax) every 4-6 months provides excellent protection. Personally I use Wolfgan's Deep Gloss Sealant. Every third wash I use optimum spray wax on top which extends the sealant life. It takes about 15 minutes to do the whole truck.

 

[SnowYeti]

Do paint correction. I highly recommend Chemical Guys products and videos.

1. Wash with a soap designed to remove everything, dirt, wax, grease, etc
2. Clay. Bar, glove, etc. there is a shocking amount of stuff on the paint on new cars from shipping. This gets ride of it allowing a better polish and smother end result.
3. Two Stage polish, one fine the other super fine with a random orbit polisher and the correct pad. They outline all of this in videos
4. Buff in sealant
5. Buff in glaze

Wash ONLY with soap from CG that does not remove all your hard work. Most have gloss enhancers. Highly recommend a soap cannon, awesome

Use a detailing spray after washing and wiping dry.

Super smooth, nothing sticks, super shinny. I can even go to the car wash and just use water most of the time.

Note: Different products and techniques should be used for different colors. Especially black

 

[Mr. Goodkat]

I got my 2000 last October and the paint had been neglected. The finish was dull, chalky, and the liftgate in particular was horrible. A lot of contaminants impregnated in the finish.

I removed all badges and emblems from the paint (except for the one gold emblmem on the liftgate), went over the whole body and cladding with two clay bars, using a variable speed polisher I rubbed it out with Meguiars fine cut compound, followed by Meguiars swirl remover, and finished with Wolfgang's Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0. The finish turned out excellent! It wasn't fun and it was messy but it was worth it.

I've used Collinite 845 insulator wax which is really good but I think I like the Wolfgang's DGPS 3.O better and it's highly regarded. It's a little bit easier to work with and I think it will last and protect better through the winter.

I recommend checking out www.autogeek.net for auto detailing supplies.

This picture shows the high gloss of the rejuvenated old paint but nevermind the hot rod slant. At the time I had just installed the rear lift. A guy I work with passed me one day after leaving work and he said it was the whitest vehicle had ever seen.

 

[Ghostrider]

I do remember talking with the Toyota body shop manager before buying and he highly recommended any other color than white

 

[LandCruiser]

The ones I've seen in CO and CA seem to take on the color of the red dust around here, I don't know if it gets ground into the paint or what.

 

[Jetboy]

Superwhite is the best color. It's the thinnest and therefore lightest paint. We all know weight kills performance. That's why I chose superwhite.

I have not noticed a fading of my '15 superwhite, but I'm not really looking for high gloss shine. Mostly just for rust prevention. It's been pretty good so far at the task of protecting the metal underneath.

 

[SnowYeti]

The ones I've seen in CO and CA seem to take on the color of the red dust around here, I don't know if it gets ground into the paint or what.

I think that is a great example why pant correction and protection are so important. The paint will never be better than new, I usually go to all this work week of buying a new car. Filling in the pores of the fresh paint with a barrier is important for long term finish protection.

Colored dirt, sap, bugs, rust, various snow and ice removal road treatments, UV, etc want to destroy your paint.

I also think white doesn’t get the attention it needs since it hides dirt better and doesn’t show swirls as much. Where as black shows everything and needs to be handled with more care and different products. A lot of paint damage can happen just by the method of washing, dish soap stripping the paint, sponges that grind dirt in, car washes that touch your paint, etc.

I have seen what neglect looks like on white Toyota paint. My mom has a white Toyota truck that she has done nothing to and it is matte, showing rust spots on the surface, and has some micro cracks. Yes, I have offered to detail it but she doesn’t care, she just uses it for her garden. While her other white Sub WRX looks brand new after 3 years because she has it detailed professionally.

The white Toyota paint is super oxidized from lack of protection.

While I belief full paint protection is the way to go, I also have invested in the right product and tools to do it right. But ANYTHING is better than nothing. Even some spray on wipe off products are going to really help.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Polish and seal that sucker, it will shine

 

[Pathfinder!]

Do paint correction. I highly recommend Chemical Guys products and videos.

1. Wash with a soap designed to remove everything, dirt, wax, grease, etc
2. Clay. Bar, glove, etc. there is a shocking amount of stuff on the paint on new cars from shipping. This gets ride of it allowing a better polish and smother end result.
3. Two Stage polish, one fine the other super fine with a random orbit polisher and the correct pad. They outline all of this in videos
4. Buff in sealant
5. Buff in glaze

Wash ONLY with soap from CG that does not remove all your hard work. Most have gloss enhancers. Highly recommend a soap cannon, awesome

Use a detailing spray after washing and wiping dry.

Super smooth, nothing sticks, super shinny. I can even go to the car wash and just use water most of the time.

Note: Different products and techniques should be used for different colors. Especially black

Makes me realize how lazy I am about this stuff. My idea of taking care of the paint is paying the extra 4 bucks for the premium autowash

 

[Dillusion]

Only had mine since October but it shines like day one. It is a garage queen but I expect it to keep shining.

I always use spray wax after every wash and once a month I go with the clay bar (If needed) and some paint sealer. I'll only bust out the buffer if some paint correction needs to be done.

I never will put my car through a car wash.

 

[YelloLab]

Only had mine since October but it shines like day one. It is a garage queen but I expect it to keep shining.

I always use spray wax after every wash and once a month I go with the clay bar (If needed) and some paint sealer. I'll only bust out the buffer if some paint correction needs to be done.

I never will put my car through a car wash.

Correct, Bringing your car to a car wash is the the worst thing you can do. The chemicals used to clean will destroy the finish.

 

[Dillusion]

Correct, Bringing your car to a car wash is the the worst thing you can do. The chemicals used to clean will destroy the finish.

Never really thought about the chemicals.

I was raised to take care of your vehicle. Worst investment you can make so you need to make it last.

I understand there are some that have no place to wash it at home and have no choice. But if you have the option to wash it at home don't be a lazy ass.

Plus most don't really wash under the rear spoiler area to good.