Surface Rust
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Yes that's just very minor rust, most people would say it has no rust at all, I would get it sprayed inside the frame and outside the frame with a good rust preventative ASAP!!
phattyduck
Elite Member
Yeah, that's still rust free, even by SoCal standards. The areas where it is 'rusty' are where it gets sandblasted - but there is no other damage.
If he is going to drive in the salt belt, get it fully coated (inside and out of the frame with Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc) and understand it will STILL get rusty from here. If you care about it, don't take it there.
-Charlie
If he is going to drive in the salt belt, get it fully coated (inside and out of the frame with Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc) and understand it will STILL get rusty from here. If you care about it, don't take it there.
-Charlie
Hey Charlie - the trans I got from you is still running strong, thank you again!
Any idea how much it costs for the Fluid Film treatment?
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phattyduck
Elite Member
Glad to hear it!
You can get the spray cans of Fluid Film from NAPA locally - but you won't find anyone that will do it for you outside of the rust belt. I keep a can of Fluid Film around for bare metal tools (drill press, etc.) to keep them rust free out in the garage. I'm not sure how many cans it would take to treat the truck yourself though...
-Charlie
I just talked to a shop near my sons school and they said between $300-500 for the Fluid Film.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I live in the state of PA
1 gallon of Fluid film would be enough. Granted you have to use a wool wax gun and an air compressor to spray it on the chassis. Fluid film will not stay and will wash off. Woolwax will not stay and will slowly wash off as they do not get semi solid enough and work great in things but on the fender wells and frame rails externally. Cosmoline I think would be better on the external side of the frame and underneath. As it will get semisolid and not wash away as fast. Its more like a grease so it will not creep around like fluid film. However, its seems to be alot better in the fender wells and external steel.
IF you Fluid film it will work.. You just have to it every year to keep those areas covered that it washes away from.
I am not sure how many spray cans of FF it would take. As i buy it by the gallon and 5 gallon buckets.
One user used to use wd 40 and coat it once a year and his frame looked great for being from the Northeast was spotless.
Transmission fluid will work for a while but will slowly wash away.. It does a great job of creeping around does dissapear as well.
Keep in mind, when you coat this steel the dirt and dust will collect on the surface of the metal. Make like a cake coating on it. This is just how it is.. To keep the steel from rusting here you have to keep the oxygen away from it.
Its very bad here because of the rapid temperature swings. We have one of the worst freeze thaw ratios in the country and that makes things worse around this area.
1 gallon of Fluid film would be enough. Granted you have to use a wool wax gun and an air compressor to spray it on the chassis. Fluid film will not stay and will wash off. Woolwax will not stay and will slowly wash off as they do not get semi solid enough and work great in things but on the fender wells and frame rails externally. Cosmoline I think would be better on the external side of the frame and underneath. As it will get semisolid and not wash away as fast. Its more like a grease so it will not creep around like fluid film. However, its seems to be alot better in the fender wells and external steel.
IF you Fluid film it will work.. You just have to it every year to keep those areas covered that it washes away from.
I am not sure how many spray cans of FF it would take. As i buy it by the gallon and 5 gallon buckets.
One user used to use wd 40 and coat it once a year and his frame looked great for being from the Northeast was spotless.
Transmission fluid will work for a while but will slowly wash away.. It does a great job of creeping around does dissapear as well.
Keep in mind, when you coat this steel the dirt and dust will collect on the surface of the metal. Make like a cake coating on it. This is just how it is.. To keep the steel from rusting here you have to keep the oxygen away from it.
Its very bad here because of the rapid temperature swings. We have one of the worst freeze thaw ratios in the country and that makes things worse around this area.
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Previologist
Member
Not that many. I did most of my frame and a few body spots last fall and my can isn't empty yet. I found some untouched spots frame spots when I was doing my clutch, and some other spots I missed but I can't imagine you'd need more than 2 cans to spray the crap out of everything. And mine has real rust on it
I lived in CA for years before moving with my rust free 1997 4runner (308k miles) and one winter in Pittsburgh without the truck under coated was enough to make me a Cosmoline convert. I did tons of research and Cosmoline was the best option. FF and Woolwax create a gloopy dirt filled scummy layer that although it protects the metal....it washes away and also needs to be re applied each year. Cosmoline creates a hard wax layer that I can pressure wash and won't come loose. After under coating it yearly for 2 years I dont see any change now into my 3rd year....I'll probably not do a full under coat this year and just touch up the few little spots here and there that need it each year. Highly recommend RP342 cosmoline. I bought a woolwax sprayer and a gallon of cosmoline but you can get it in an aerosol can too.
Be sure to coat EVERYTHING!!! Rockers, door cavities, fenders, that road salt put here is so damn corrosive!
Cosmoline RP-342 "Heavy" Rust Preventative Spray (Military-Grade) 12-Cans https://a.co/d/8NXr5K1
brillo_76
Elite Member
That is what I plan to move to once I use up my supply. I like the fact it goes semi solid. The others do not.
Offroad Alliance
official vendor
that little rust is considered little to no rust and is in excellent condition for 25+ years old.
PerfectTommy
New member
have a Gen3 in a similar state. brought it to Illinois (!) and will have it FluidFilm coated.
the gent doing it said he will brush/sand the rust first, hit the most vulnerable areas (welds, etc) with primer, then coat. he says that the FluidFilm will stop the existing rust from getting worse (no air or water), so POR15 ,etc. is not really necessary.
has anyone else heard this?
that it washes away is, IMO, a good thing: doesn't hold potentially damaging/corrosive debris; allows annual inspection; and ensures a 'fresh' protectant.
the gent doing it said he will brush/sand the rust first, hit the most vulnerable areas (welds, etc) with primer, then coat. he says that the FluidFilm will stop the existing rust from getting worse (no air or water), so POR15 ,etc. is not really necessary.
has anyone else heard this?
that it washes away is, IMO, a good thing: doesn't hold potentially damaging/corrosive debris; allows annual inspection; and ensures a 'fresh' protectant.
igetfortunota
New member
My Cali truck never sees winter BUT as lifetimer in the rust belt, I can tell you without a doubt, fluid film has my business for life.
I read all the reviews, watched the entire internet, chose FF and frankly I was shocked at how well it performs. We purchased the kit that has the sprayer and hoses/nozzles(you could piece this yourself if you wish) and spent a good amount of time on everyone's vehicle(silverados and tacomas) that sees winter. The stuff absolutely can make it through a PA winter, and its absolutely worth it. If you do the application adequately/thoroughly you literally can't tell that the vehicle sees any winter.
Like Charlie said, even the lube properties of it are awesome, I've used it in can form for for latches, hinges, all little fiddly stuff and it performs as good as just about any standard maintenance canned lube/grease etc.
One thing to note: obviously its considered a consumable type application. The important thing for me on it is that if its a front facing part or section(arms, spindle, skid plate, frame/x-member, you get the point), you will probably want to do a slightly thicker application, a second pass of sorts. Sometimes the regular driving wears it away over the entirety of 7-8 months of winter.
Again though, its enough that after 1 season it was an 'oh we should put thicker application on' - problem solved. And for reference to the compulsive folks like myself, there wasn't rust developing at the end of the season, you could just tell the salty road bring just wore it down a bit compared to the completely untouched sections.
My suggestion is to hit it around Halloween and you can easily make it through March/April.
TracyNorton
Member
Out here in So Cal...Big Bear in particular...they are now using brine on the roads up to BB when it snows. (Cal Trans acknowledges this on their website)
I had surface rust EVERYWHERE in a couple of days of driving around up there last winter.
I douched the entire underside w/ Berkbile Salt cutter....then coated all the rust w/ Eastwood Rust Converter after it dried. Now no rust.
This sucks, but it is what it is....now I wash my truck every time I come down from there in the winter (my daughter lives up there and has a 2nd gen that has same surface rust prob).
I'm considering a spray on Lanolin product, or the Cosmoline as mentioned.
I had surface rust EVERYWHERE in a couple of days of driving around up there last winter.
I douched the entire underside w/ Berkbile Salt cutter....then coated all the rust w/ Eastwood Rust Converter after it dried. Now no rust.
This sucks, but it is what it is....now I wash my truck every time I come down from there in the winter (my daughter lives up there and has a 2nd gen that has same surface rust prob).
I'm considering a spray on Lanolin product, or the Cosmoline as mentioned.