Suspension Clunk

[ShaftedTwice]

I've been hearing a deeper "clunk" noise of what sounds like metal hitting metal on potholes and bumps. I don't know if it is also related, but I'm also hearing a very high pitched metal squeak on uneven roads - it just takes the smallest amount of unevenness to set it off. Even further, every now and then if I go at a speed bump too quickly, I'll hear a kind of "ping" just once that's rather loud.

I've removed my front sway bar completely, I've installed new front lower control arms with new bushings and ball joint, and I've tightened every front suspension part down to torque specs. Upper ball joints seem to have good rubber with no cracks, but without actually looking inside it's hard to say. When the front wheels are off the ground, I'm getting the tiniest amount of play, just barely making a tap noise when rocking from 12 to 6 o'clock. Could wheel bearings be responsible for all this noise? May be an indication of inner tie rod needing replacement?

The outer tie rods can rotate with absolute ease - but don't have play when pushing them up or down -- this is normal correct? I've been driving myself absolutely crazy trying to track down these noises.

 

[alextmullis]

I’ve replaced every front suspension component and still get it. Thought it was my bad axle and replaced that when I swapped my diff yesterday but it’s still there

 

[earthrealm]

The usual suspects apart from those you mentioned
1. loose under carriage shield/skid plate
2. bad ball joints, usually upper arm
3. loose bolts rattling around in the frame
4. brake dust shield hitting wheel

 

[GLP]

Once I thought I for sure had suspension clunk and it turned out to be front brake pad clunk. Try lightly pressing on the brakes when you go over the noisy bumps. If the noise goes away replace your anti-rattle springs and maybe add a second spring to the top pin.

 

[ShaftedTwice]

Hmm, tried holding the brake on bumps, it doesn't seem to quiet the clunking. I think that I've honed the noises down to different areas though.

Sounds like the front passenger makes the big clunks, is there a good method to check whether or not the upper control arm has a bad ball joint? It doesn't seem to be hitting on the spring.

The higher pitched metal screech seems to be on the left side - maybe a bad wheel bearing or rear sway bar link. Going to be putting the car up and turning the wheels to try and replicate. I think I'll change the rear sway bar links and bushings regardless.

Gave some good tugs on every part of the exhaust, doesn't seem to be coming from a mount of a heat shield on any part of it.

 

[jacob7071]

Skid plate maybe? I had a clunk a few months ago - turned out one of the front skid plate bolts had rattled its way out.

 

[jscott6]

repalced xreas with Bilsteins and no more clunk

I had the 2 different sounding clunks, depending on the type of bump I hit. I had it looked over a couple of times and no one could find an issue that would cause any clunk. Then the right front shock started leaking, so I removed the XREAS suspension and replaced with Bilsteins and no more clunks of any kind.

 

[pahaf91]

I had a "ping" noise in my 4runner after installing new lower control arms and getting alignment done.

turned out to be loose bolts on the front lower control arm bolts.

 

[gaber6]

When mine stops clunking is when I'll worry. That means whatever is clunking finally failed.

 

[theoutbackdream]

Video might help. Wheel bearings wouldn't make a clunk/squeak sound unless they are fubar'd, and at that point you should really feel it. Wheel bearings would cause a grinding sound.

If there's play, try isolating where the play is coming from. FWIW, my UCA boots looked fine on my driver side, with minimal cracking on the pass side, but upon further inspection, they were loose and caused clunking/squeaking sounds, along with the drivabilitly of the car changing from bumps.

Could be these too:
1. The top hat/strut bushing could be worn
2. Loose Strut nuts
3. Loose top hat bolts that mount the top hat to the frame

 

[DZNUTS]

Lower control arm ball joints or outer tie rods


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RonJR]

Also check the LCA adjustment bolts. Make sure they're torqued to 120 or so ft-lbs. If they're only at 50-60 ft-lbs or so the bushings will slip a bit as load changes and cause a clunk.