Suspension - finalize parts list

[snowboardwcu]

Happy late turkey day all. Been obsessing over replacing my suspension for almost 2 years. Need a little help finishing up parts list.

Currently stock xreas w 165k. It’s dead. Ded ded.

Goal is smoother ride, less bumping and more control at high speeds while on curves on the shitty philly highway. I don’t off-road other than some OBX beach in the summer. Not looking for crazy lift will hopefully end with an inch or two.

Going with new FJ springs and Billys 5100 all around, new control arms in the front. New end links prob all around. Couple decisions to make.

Front Lowers will be OEM. Front uppers I’m in between OEM and Camburgs. Price is about the same. Advantages to either?

Rear control arms are where I’m lost. I have no means to determine the state of current hardware. Is replacement giving returns worth the investment? Is getting bushings pressed only worth it? Do both upper and lower? So lost....

Am I missing anything else?

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

[snowboardwcu]

bump.

after more reading its obvious that JBA uppers (std high caster) are the way to go vs either OEM or Camburg.

would still like insight in the rear though. thanks.

 

[woodman60]

bump.

after more reading its obvious that JBA uppers (std high caster) are the way to go vs either OEM or Camburg.

would still like insight in the rear though. thanks.

I'm in the same quandary with regard to rear control arms. Don't want to spend money needlessly, but may just do them while it's taken apart.

 

[svana]

Rear arms aren't needed until you start getting to more extreme levels of lift (3-4"+). Reputable aftermarket uppers will almost always be better than stock (duh), but I don't think they're necessary for 5100's - YMMV. If the bushings are shot then aftermarket will be the easiest to go for maintenance moving forward. I've replaced my LCA's with OEM as needed, have yet to see a need for the long travel ones with my Icons with extended travel (if ride quality is all you're going for).If this is your first time replacing the LCA's, you'll probably need a new bolt as that one is typically seized in there and needs to be sawzalled out.

 

[f250ben]

If you’re tearing into suspension/drivetrain then I’d also look at:
Note-I’m assuming you’re doing this yourself. I wouldn’t necessarily look at all of these items if I were paying a shop to do this work. I’d assume that a whole lot of the “check this thing” items would turn into expensive replacements whether or not they were needed.

New radiator body mounts (heard those can wear out and crumble prematurely. Haven’t done it myself but eventually will if I do a body lift)

Inner and outer tie rod ends

Sway bar links

Sway bar bushings

Give your wheels a wiggle side to side and top to bottom to check for any wheel bearing play. All 4 wheels.

Check your cv boots for cracks/damage and reboot if you find anything. Seems the consensus is rebooting OEM axles is better than replacing the axles themselves as long as the originals are not worn or damaged.

Steering linkage thingy that gets rusty and makes your steering stiff.

Check steering rack for play/leaks. Supposedly pretty expensive if you have problems there, and it doesn’t seem to be common, but something I’d put low on the list if I were truly going through everything suspension and steering related.


Also, ditto what everybody else said on rear control arms. Probably not necessary for the small lift you’re looking at.



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[Berty_K]

bump.

after more reading its obvious that JBA uppers (std high caster) are the way to go vs either OEM or Camburg.

would still like insight in the rear though. thanks.

JBA UCAs and OEM LCAs are the way to go

 

[snowboardwcu]

If you’re tearing into suspension/drivetrain then I’d also look at:
Note-I’m assuming you’re doing this yourself. I wouldn’t necessarily look at all of these items if I were paying a shop to do this work. I’d assume that a whole lot of the “check this thing” items would turn into expensive replacements whether or not they were needed.

New radiator body mounts (heard those can wear out and crumble prematurely. Haven’t done it myself but eventually will if I do a body lift)

Inner and outer tie rod ends

Sway bar links

Sway bar bushings

Give your wheels a wiggle side to side and top to bottom to check for any wheel bearing play. All 4 wheels.

Check your cv boots for cracks/damage and reboot if you find anything. Seems the consensus is rebooting OEM axles is better than replacing the axles themselves as long as the originals are not worn or damaged.

Steering linkage thingy that gets rusty and makes your steering stiff.

Check steering rack for play/leaks. Supposedly pretty expensive if you have problems there, and it doesn’t seem to be common, but something I’d put low on the list if I were truly going through everything suspension and steering related.


Also, ditto what everybody else said on rear control arms. Probably not necessary for the small lift you’re looking at.

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unfortunately i can't do this myself. capability yes, resources no. Philly streets dont lend to suspension replacements.

as soon as i get a few warm hours i'm going to check the bushings in the rear. hopefully i can tell if they are dry rot / dead. only going to replace if needed.

tie rod ends are good afaik and sway bar bushings were replaced last year with energy greaseables. everything else is good. thanks!