Suspension in the wise...

[SnowLizard]

well after a lot of reading I'm thinking of the following setup...

I nixed the idea of going toytec "boss" suspension from reviews saying that you "need" weight for it to ride even decent...

so I've come up with the next best list... Keep in mind I'll have to do this in parts... but I want to know opinions and suggestions if my 'plan' will work.

needs -
upper ball joints
upper CA bushings
front shocks
lower ball joints - (yes going oem)

wants/goal -
4 corner shocks / springs
front LR arms
2-2.5 inch lift
adj rear links (rear control arms) do all 4 need to be adjustable?
adj pan hard - do I need drop bracket?
quick disconnect sway bar links.
rear brake line extension
smooth ride on/off road, daily driver...


part1 - front
Left Coil Part Number: 48131-AF100 - $137
Right Coil Part Number: 48131-AF090 $137
Bilstein 5100 Tundra shocks - on stock height for now, can adj later for lift - $215
light racing uca ball joint - figure 2 birds one stone, can adj later for lift. $450
LCA bushings $45ish

part2 - rear
bilsteins 5100 tundra shocks 145
LC or OEM 861 coils?? still not sure... used so no more than $50
adj links (rear control arms) - price pending
adj pan hard bar - price pending
sway bar links (mstudt's quick disconnect's) $210


I figure the front as that's what is needs now, 16yrs and 154k miles can do that. and front suspension/shock bushings are shot...

I'd like to do both front and rear but cant purchase all at once. front needs it more than back but both need it.

any tips or suggestions are welcome.

 

[absalom]

Wouldn't waste a dime on anything less than a 2.5" midtravel setup. I'm very local to you, test drive mine before you order any parts.

 

[JayRolla]

Absolem is right but those oem coil setups work really well when on a budget. They ride great and flex good off-road. I would go lc rear coils if ride is #1 priority.

IMO I like budget build that out due all those crawlers and midtravel setups that can get pricey. To much money to spend on a 20 year old suv with 260k miles. My lift setup was under $900 front to back.

 

[volkinator]

Absolem is right but those oem coil setups work really well when on a budget. They ride great and flex good off-road. I would go lc rear coils if ride is #1 priority.

IMO I like budget build that out due all those crawlers and midtravel setups that can get pricey. To much money to spend on a 20 year old suv with 260k miles. My lift setup was under $900 front to back.

I agree with the budget side of it. I sourced all my components for ~$500, new Tundra 5100's, used TRD coils, very lightly used 890 coils, homemade panhard drop bracket (didn't need adjustable), didn't need extended brake lines, just bend the tab at the top. I'd like to get LR UCA's, but again, not needed at this time. Looking at running 285's so I'll probably do spacers for clearance... love the ride with it. got about 2.5" of lift and it sits how I want it (a little bit of rake) Once I load it up a bit, it's pretty much perfectly level.

 

[MStudt]

My 2 cents since you'll already talked to me about some of this. Longer sway bar links are good in any situation since it'll help get your sway bars back to the intended position. Running your sway bars on short links will limit the amount of travel you'll get, and with the added stress you'll run the issue of breaking them.

With your rear control arms. Go fixed unless you have intentions of stepping up to 35's, or if you want to be able to adjust your pinion angle. If you don't know about the pinion angle or what it can do, don't mess with it. Proper 4 link geometry isn't about just turning a bolt here and there. With my experience 9/10 people will be happy with fixed links.

 

[SnowLizard]

okay, some more research... heck it's what I'm really good at.

ok here's another idea...

$215 front 5100 bilstein shocks - adjustable (no rears)
$450 Light racing front UCA's
free - stock front springs (I heard is softer than tundra's AND they work with bilsteins 5100 adjustables)
$50 - land cruiser rear shocks Monroe's - can always go bilstein later.. this is just smart.
$used - 8 wrap LC coils - no brainer
$31 - front dif drop - must
$40 - front LCA bushings (still shopping know any?) energy suspension any good?
new bushings on rear control arms and rear pan hard. again energy suspension?


adjustable pan hard rear or drop bracket? idk, maybe just a drop bracket I don't want to mess too much with it.

 

[AZBub]

With your rear control arms. Go fixed unless you have intentions of stepping up to 35's, or if you want to be able to adjust your pinion angle. If you don't know about the pinion angle or what it can do, don't mess with it. Proper 4 link geometry isn't about just turning a bolt here and there. With my experience 9/10 people will be happy with fixed links.

This. Are your OE ones in that bad of shape?

The general consensus is that a 3G runner is quite capable with mild tweaking. It's sad to see folks dump a ton of money into these rigs and then get bored with them and post them permanently on Craigslist for $15,000 or more cause they "spared no expense" to hop a curb at a mall. A LOT can be done on a dime.

I think it's smart to start out on the low end and see if that's all you really need. If the most aggressive wheeling you may do is climbing the waterfall at Box Canyon the setup you just listed will do that and then some.

 

[D Farms]

id say for now do it in this order.
springs and shocks.
rear brake lines
alignment
check all of your bushings and replace them with poly if you can. if you replace any bushings on the front end you will need an alignment.
check your cv boots and replace them if needed after the lift.
also check your ball joint and steering components.

you can live without these, and can upgrade later.
extended sway links if you plan to run a sway bar.
when you get the time get some ucas but they arent really nessesary.
extended panhard bar is also not essential.